Tars - The Texas Newbie Chimes In

[Schlepporello]

On the board that I frequent the most (http://forums.chisham.com/index.php?sid=a338a00368d0b5e52b68cc54ab3bc5ad Tubenet) many of us old timers are constantly bombarded by the constant repetetive posts made about things relating to tubas. Which is a better finish, lacquer or silver plate? Which mouthpiece is better? Which key is better? And what about the valves? Are pistons better than rotors? Such is the life of a tuba junkie. I'm honestly trying not to clutter this fine board with the same type of repetative newbie questions, but in searching the previous posts I'm still not gleaning all the information I'm looking for. So I ask your patience as I stumble about the board.

 

I'm going to need to replace my existing front tire soon. How soon, I don't know. I've not ridden in 30 years and when I did ride regularly I never rode often enough to justify replacing a front tire. Here's what I currently have on my 84 VR.

Front: Metzler ME880 Marathon 120/90B 18 M/C 65H

Rear: Dunlop 491 Elite II MU 90 B16 78H

 

So far, both tires seem to be doing everything I need them to do. As I'm driving ultra-conservatively (as if the road were covered in grease), I'm not pushing the bike hard through curves or throwing it around like I'm on a race course. I've had to ride in the rain a few times and they seem to do amazingly well to me.

 

My motorcycle tire knowledge is only 30 years out of date, so I'm having to learn everything anew. I've read that Avons are the way to go, but then in other posts I read that Avons on the front don't always perform well on 1st Gen VR's. As for the type of riding I do, I bought the bike to use as a daily driver to and from work. My speeds seldom get over 45 MPH unless I get brave and hit the highway if I'm in a hurry. I do not plan on traveling on this bike, That's what I bought the big Dodge quad-cab for. However I would like to take the occaisional trip to Palo Duro Canyon every once in a while. Long tire life is of course desireable as I don't want to have to stick a new tire on every year. It's gotta stick to the road, I don't like falling down. I understand the complexities of selecting a tire that's too hard of a compound. What say ye? Would an Avon be the way to go or should I go with a Dunlop?

 

Another thing I need to ask about is tire size. Back in the olden days, I would often replace the original rear tire with the widest tire I could possibly fit on the rim without scraping the swingarm. Are there any benefits to selecting a different size tire other than what the recommended size is?

 

And what about radials? I honestly didn't know there was such a thing for motorcycle tires, I thought all that existed were bias tires. Pros and cons?

 

Thanks y'all!

[AZSpyder]

I always preferred the Sousaphone over the Tuba. Don't care much on the finish except I liked the fiberglass one on parade day.

Jerry

[flb_78]

My motorcycle tire knowledge is only 30 years out of date, so I'm having to learn everything anew.

 

nah, you're cruiser tire knowledge is still about par with today's technologies. The tires today aren't much better then they were 30 years ago for "cruiser" styled bikes.

 

For a 1st gen, the Dunlop Elite 3's are a good tire. Get em at either Sharp's or David Brown's.

 

Use http://www.swmototires.com to get your best price. Print the price out off the website and take it to the parts counter. They will either meet the price or get close enough to make it worth your time to buy them locally.

 

I believe Sharps charges 40 bux a tire to mount it if you buy it from them, but I could be mistaken. Maybe TxtoSturgis could chime in because he has had them mount one up with in the last couple of months.

[Schlepporello]

Thanks FLB!

I'd prefer to give DB the business simply because they're closer to the house and David used to be a trumpet player. What about balancing? Is that taken care of when they mount it? Also, I'm assuming that both my tires are bias ply tires. Am I better off to go to radials?

 

AZ, the fiberglass will certainly be easier to carry, but the tone and projection will totally suck when compared to what you could belt out with a good ol' Conn 20J or 32J (if you have a strong enough shoulder). A friend of mine in Indiana has a "monster" Martin 4-valved sousaphone that he says will flat play everything else out of the stadium. The added weight resulting from the additional 4th valve and associated plumbing can make for a very uncomfortable marching experience though.

Edited August 30, 2008 by Schlepporello

[AZSpyder]

Wow, Tubenet, thats pretty cool.

I didn't continue band after the 8th grade. Getting the fiberglass one after the other player moved to Reno was a big thing for me. I was maybe 115 lbs soaking wet then. I think the brass one weighed more then me.

I didn't realize back then that there would be things you could do with it in later years. At that time I was the only Sousaphone player in Mineral County, Nevada. Pretty neat hanging with the High School girls when the High School Jazz band borrowed me.

Jerry

[Schlepporello]

Yep, it's like I was explaining to Freebird the other day. You'd be surprised and amazed at all the things tuba related that are out there. Here's a mind blower for you. The horn you played in school was pitched in B-flat. That means your tuning note was the upper B-flat, which was the second line up from the bottom of the staff on your music. Tubas also are currently manufactured in pitches of C, E-flat and F. That means the tuning note is the note i just mentioned. I own two B-flat horns and one E-flat horn. I use the E-flat for playing at our Tuba Christmas events now because I'm being called upon to play the high parts. E-flat tubas can hit the high notes easier.