Special Tools

[Guest cando115]

I'd like to replace and torque my steering head bearings. Anyone know where I can find a ring nut wrench (complete with 3/8 inch slot for a torque wrench) and fork end cap socket? In reading the shop manual, looks like it calls for removing the forks? Is there any way to get around that? Thanks.

 

Jim

[Gearhead]

Jim,

 

You don't have to remove the forks to torque the bearings, but if you want to CHANGE the bearings it all has to come out. You DO have to loosen either the upper or lower fork pinch bolts when torquing.

 

I made a ring nut socket with my welder. Handy to have around. Then I used a short ratchet and fish scale for torquing.

 

That said, opinions vary on torquing. Many say the 2-point-something foot-pounds in the manual aren't nearly enough, you need way more to dampen steering head oscillation. I disagree. I've always tightened head bearings just tight enough to get rid of the play, and no tighter. With the front wheel off the ground: if the bottom of the forks wiggle, they're too loose. If the handlebars don't fall to the stop after being bumped off center, they're too tight (although all the wires on the Venture's handlebars adds friction that impedes the bars falling freely to the side). I think this approximates the factory torque spec. Most folks on this site disagree with that, however, so pick a method and take your best shot...

 

Jeremy

[Guest cando115]

Thanks Jeremy.

[GeorgeS]

Torque should be set, so on Center Stand, The bars should " Fall " to the Stops, but with some noticable Friction as they fall.

 

They must not Just Flop to the " Stops".

 

I reccomend you do this check before you start dissassembling to do the repair.

 

So you have a refference point.

 

As the previous, posting, you have to be sure the cables are not interfering when you do the drop test.

 

Wherever the Nut is set now, 5 to 10 Degrees of CW rotation should be the most you would have to add.

 

However New bearings would change this. I suggest you " Mark " the current Settings of the nut, for refference.

[Freebird]

I have never had to replace the bearings but they do need to be re-packed if never done. Yamaha is very stingy with the grease on these things, just as they are with the rear ends. You would have to completely remove the forks to change the bearings but you can get by with just dropping them about 3 or 4 inches if you just want to re-pack and torque them. In this case, you can remove the upper one to repack it and just repack the bottom one in place. You can get to it once you drop the fork about 3 inches.

[dragerman]

Jim,

 

You don't have to remove the forks to torque the bearings, but if you want to CHANGE the bearings it all has to come out. You DO have to loosen either the upper or lower fork pinch bolts when torquing.

 

I made a ring nut socket with my welder. Handy to have around. Then I used a short ratchet and fish scale for torquing.

 

 

 

Jeremy

Does one have to loosen the upper or lower fork pinch bolts just to do a minor adjustment??

[Marcarl]

Does one have to loosen the upper or lower fork pinch bolts just to do a minor adjustment??

Yes you have to loosen one or the other, mostly it's the top one seeing as you're right there anyways. I don't use a socket on mine, I've made a bar with squared end cut at an angle to gently drive the nuts around with a friendly persuader. I make them tight enough so that when you toss the handle bars to the stop, they bounce back just a little. I then make sure they are not too tight by taking it for a ride to make sure the bearings aren't holding the steering captive.

[dragerman]

Yes you have to loosen one or the other, mostly it's the top one seeing as you're right there anyways. I don't use a socket on mine, I've made a bar with squared end cut at an angle to gently drive the nuts around with a friendly persuader. I make them tight enough so that when you toss the handle bars to the stop, they bounce back just a little. I then make sure they are not too tight by taking it for a ride to make sure the bearings aren't holding the steering captive.

Sounds like good advice, thanks.

[Gearhead]

Two things I forgot to mention. 1) I find it easier to loosen the lower pinch bolts thatn the upper. The upper bolts are very hard to get to unless you remove the plastic grilles, while the lowers can be accessed without removing anything. 2) If you get away from an actual torque spec and adjust the bearings by one of the "feel" methods mentioned here, you don't need the spanner socket. Just use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to tap it around.

 

Jeremy