Tiresmoking Posted July 29, 2018 Share #1 Posted July 29, 2018 Sorry for 20 questions here. But how bad is it to pull the head off and getting the chain back in the correct place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 29, 2018 Share #2 Posted July 29, 2018 Without looking at the manual and I can if you need help. Unless the engine is going to be completely disassembled we always set the timing marks, then we add for a quick re install purpose, a witness mark on the sprocket and chain. You know of course there is a tensioner below the head, they do not all reset the same way so, it is important to follow the manuals procedure. May we ask why you want/need to remove the head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiresmoking Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share #3 Posted July 29, 2018 I’m thinking about going back to the original 83 motor and was told it was leaking antifreeze out the head gasket. Also it has less miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 29, 2018 Share #4 Posted July 29, 2018 I see. So you have the 1983 with an 84 engine? Why would you want to replace it with a faulty unit? These engines if maintained can easly perform well at higher mileage, which is what by the way? Likely you wouldn't know the real miles I guess. It is not uncommon for aluminum engines to leak coolant, and as I've mentioned in the past it was common practice to flush, refill and add a can of Bars to the coolant, this was also a recommended MFG practice in the early years of liquid cooled engines, and in my opinion still is. But if we don't know if the coolant leaked into the cylinders then under no circumstances would I risk the effort without pulling the engine apart and at a minimum, checking for broken rings and excessive wall glazing! Not to say my way is better but fluid above the piston is bad news - if it happened?? So my thought is, do a compression check, so simple and cost next to zip. That I think would be a wise start... Also I have a posting which is based on my experience with many old motorcycle engines.. A Case for Fogging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiresmoking Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share #5 Posted July 29, 2018 The motor that is on the bike now has between 100-160 psi per cylinder that’s why was thinking on changing motors. Also the side covers are getting oxidized so I want to polish the aluminum so I need to pull them off. Also the valve covers are leakingSo I thought if I do that along with buying a gasket set might as well use the one with less miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 29, 2018 Share #6 Posted July 29, 2018 The motor that is on the bike now has between 100-160 psi per cylinder that’s why was thinking on changing motors. Well that is good information and certainly she can't perform with such an imbalance. Having said that as my fogging post mentions, those numbers wouldn't prevent me from trying at least to get them back up. It would help me to know which numbers are where and within 5lbs with all 4 are. But the 100 does not surprise me at all, and, I have seen much worse get better with very little effort. Also the side covers are getting oxidized so I want to polish the aluminum so I need to pull them off. Also the valve covers are leakingSo I thought if I do that along with buying a gasket set might as well use the one with less miles. The covers come off while the engine is still in the bike frame for you to doll up and replace the gaskets, of course one would also check the valve lash while there. I wouldn't talk myself into the leaking head one too easily, there could be a light amount of work or it could be a full engine? It's up to you dude, we'll play along either way Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted July 30, 2018 Share #7 Posted July 30, 2018 Hey Martin, Welcome to the Forum! Before I would go ripping heads off, I would check the Valve Lash! That low compression could be nothing more than a poorly adjusted valve bucket partially holding a valve open. Did you do a dry compression test as well as a wet compression test to see if it is the piston rings? Another thing to consider, for the price of a gasket set, valve job, and possibly a ring set you could purchase a low miles 1300 motor and rid yourself of the second gear issue at the same time. Just some things to think about and check out. Again, welcome to the forum! Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiresmoking Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share #8 Posted July 30, 2018 I just done a dry compression test. Need to do some with some oil to find out if it’s the rings. I’ve thought about pulling the valve cover off and checking the valve lash since it needs valve cover gaskets anyway. I was hoping this bike would be a easy fix but sounds like I need to put all over tlc into this bike. Well at least motor engine wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 30, 2018 Share #9 Posted July 30, 2018 I just done a dry compression test. Need to do some with some oil to find out if it’s the rings. At this point I don't see the wet test will reveal any new information. Read this post I linked. Do the simple easy things 1st and then decide. For all we know 2nd gear may have already been dealt with..? https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?137296-A-Case-for-Fogging I’ve thought about pulling the valve cover off and checking the valve lash since it needs valve cover gaskets anyway. I was hoping this bike would be a easy fix but sounds like I need to put all over tlc into this bike. Well at least motor engine wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiresmoking Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share #10 Posted July 30, 2018 One more quick question. My temp gauge gets almost red line , seems like in no time. Bad thermostat or is that common to heat up like that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 30, 2018 Share #11 Posted July 30, 2018 One more quick question. My temp gauge gets almost red line , seems like in no time. Bad thermostat or is that common to heat up like that?? This post suggests you are riding the bike? Have you noticed any second gear issues? For the temp gauge I have read here that others with these early models say the gauge does show high readings. Perhaps snap a pic straight on and post it, others will be able to offer you there opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiresmoking Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share #12 Posted July 30, 2018 There’s no second gear issues. I hit it waiting for it to get up like my old VMaxx but just not the same🤨. Post pics of the temp gauge tomorrow after work. Working both jobs today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Ready Auto Posted August 3, 2018 Share #13 Posted August 3, 2018 One more quick question. My temp gauge gets almost red line , seems like in no time. Bad thermostat or is that common to heat up like that?? It is completely normal for these old bikes to read just shy of red on the temp gauge. Mine usually sits about 3 or 4 needle thicknesses below red durring normal operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 6, 2018 Share #14 Posted August 6, 2018 Just a side note for you, improper carb balance can and will cause the engine to run hotter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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