CaseyJ955 Posted September 21, 2016 Share #1 Posted September 21, 2016 I just replaced the old steering bearings and races with the allballs replacements. Is it advisable to preload the bearings before I dial in the final adjustment, if so how much? I plan to get the final adjustment using the bounce method. There was also a link I saw to an e version of the service manual and darn if I can find it, can anyone point me to that? Thanks folks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted September 21, 2016 Share #2 Posted September 21, 2016 Check me but I think with the wheel off the ground you bring the nut up as you turn the bars left and right and you bring it up to 37 ft lbs and stop. Then you back the nut off and bring it up to 2-3 ft lbs checking alignment of the lock nut Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karaboo Posted September 21, 2016 Share #3 Posted September 21, 2016 This should be the link to the pdf manuals. From the Tech section. http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted September 21, 2016 Thank you guys, I got the service manual and it said 36 ft lb. Were good there but im putting the forks back together and I have run into an issue. When they came apart it was silty and sludgy, the parts sort of exploded out, probably due too the significant force it took to slide the lowers off. I used the exploded view in the book and a video on youtube to make sure I have it right so here is a pic, there is a collar there with an integral rubber seal, I think I have that positioned correctly to, seems the only reasonable way for it to be. I dont recognize the his part from the video or exploded view, perhaps its specific to gen 1.2? So Im wondering what its called, since one of them came off in two pieces it seems ill have to replace them. I also noticed some damage to the inside of one of those aluminum cups, not sure how that could have happened. Thanks for bearing with me, I found nothing in a search and none of these parts were still on the damping rod when I slid the lowers off, they all came tumbling out of the lower encompassed in slop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motiv Posted September 22, 2016 Share #5 Posted September 22, 2016 I would replace any worn part in the forks. You can go with thicker oil to slow the dampening rate I used 15 weight. I followed the manual on the head bearing adjustment and after a couple hundred miles it all settled in and was too loose it would start heading towards a tank slapper with one hand on the bars. I ended up snugging it by jacking the bike up and letting the front end fall to either side with zero rebound. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share #6 Posted September 22, 2016 I would replace any worn part in the forks. You can go with thicker oil to slow the dampening rate I used 15 weight. I followed the manual on the head bearing adjustment and after a couple hundred miles it all settled in and was too loose it would start heading towards a tank slapper with one hand on the bars. I ended up snugging it by jacking the bike up and letting the front end fall to either side with zero rebound. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Thanks for the response, thats exactly how I was going to adjust the neck bearings as well. I thought I had everything, both upper and lower bushings, seals, dust covers, new progressives and the fluid that probably lands at around 10 wt (synthetic import ATF/PS fluid). Figured I was good to go. I'm stuck on those little seals/cups in the pics in which one side has the rubber seal separated. Once I figure out what those are or what they do I can order them and get her all together. I really cant find any reference, photos or anything in videos or searches. Because I have not seen these things in any other videos or exploded views I'm wondering if they are necessary but I cant omit them before I understand what exactly they do and why they are in there to begin with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted September 22, 2016 Share #7 Posted September 22, 2016 Yamaha trainin video shows adjustment of the fork bearings starting at about 6.19 minutes into the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share #8 Posted September 22, 2016 Yamaha trainin video shows adjustment of the fork bearings starting at about 6.19 minutes into the video. Thats a great vid. I'll get her adjusted and heading into town to get the right tool, all I have is a socket to fit. Thanks for linking that, nothing makes things clearer than a good video. I'm still hanging up on this part here, I called the local Yamaha dealer and described it, he said he thinks its the "Plate Seat" and says they are discontinued from Yamaha and suggested Ebay. I see nothing on Ebay that looks even close. Stranger yet is it's not on the parts breakdown. If anyone knows where I may source these or if there is a workaround I would be eternally grateful as I'm at a standstill until I figure how to remedy this. I was tempted to reattach the rubber with silicon but I'm sure that would be something short of a lasting fix. Anyone got used ones laying around I could buy? Thanks folks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share #9 Posted September 25, 2016 One of the Vmax guys spotted it and had all the information and an exploded view that does have that part listed. Not sure why mine lacks it. Just in case this might help anyone else in the future, the mystery item is called a Seat Plate, Yamaha # 2WR-2318U-00-00. They are discontinued by Yamaha. Boats.net and everywhere else lists them as not available. I'll be searching out a used one so I can get things back together and adjusted. Thanks folks for all the good info and video, cant wait to get her finished up and on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted September 30, 2016 Share #10 Posted September 30, 2016 The "PLATE, seat" is used on 1988-1993 Ventures. It basically acts as a one way valve. The damage yours exhibit is typical; where the "rubber" seal becomes detached from the steel cup. Sometimes the damage is done when the inner tube is used as a slide hammer while attempting to remove the fork bushings. Some people aggressively bottom the inner tube before slamming the tube up to remove the bushing. When the inner tube is forcefully bottomed, the seat plate (sitting in the bottom of the outer tube) is squished and the rubber lip is damaged. Sometimes the damage to the lip is a tear, sometimes it becomes partially or completely detached. Repairs to the seat plate, (PLATE, seat) have been successfully accomplished with Loctite 406. The manufacturer HAD to use SOME form of adhesive to join the dissimilar "rubber" lip to the steel cup. But, I see that you found at least one of the seat plates from Dingy, so repairs for yours are moot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share #11 Posted October 4, 2016 No doubt you and Dingy are the heros of the day with all the pics, info and the part. If it happens again ill know the fix and the next guy/gal with this issue should be able too use whats here. I have searched quite a bit and come up with very little so its quite helpful to have these responses. It must have torn while I was removing the lowers, they were in no way easy. Ive had the bike up on jackstands entirely to long so it will be great to get her together in time to get a few more day rides in. Thank you for all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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