Long Tall Posted March 18, 2008 Share #1 Posted March 18, 2008 Need some help here guys if you would...I have read all of the post on lowering the bag rails to make the "LINE" a little more eye appealing....I have checked the Venturers.org site...Drill new hole....yes...no.... Another was no new hole..but use existing hole that is their and drill one new hole in the rail?? I was wondering if some of you experts on this might look and the rails now and tell me if they can be lowered as much as an inch...they way I measure it... please look here: http://picasaweb.google.com/gharbourjr/2006RoyalStarVenture/photo?authkey=2CE6TTT04BI#5178871605343716242 Any input would be appreciated... Thank you in advance for your time.. George In Virginia... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k7mdl Posted March 18, 2008 Share #2 Posted March 18, 2008 Mine was closer to 3/4", basically just enough to ensure the nut would clear the existing interference on the back. Also when drilling through, place a sheet of metal behind to catch the drill bit bursting through. I thought I could catch it, and did for 1 of 2. Nicked the paint on one. Also the rails will flex down a bit if you jump on them a bit, which helps square it away, hence one reason why 3/4" worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eck Posted March 18, 2008 Share #3 Posted March 18, 2008 Also when drilling through, place a sheet of metal behind to catch the drill bit bursting through. I thought I could catch it, and did for 1 of 2. Nicked the paint on one. A small piece of tape 1/4 inch from the end of the drill bit end will work as a stop, or a small piece of wood between fender and chrome rail frame. Using a piece of metal leaves a possibility of scratching the paint...(just a thought here).. Also the rails will flex down a bit if you jump on them a bit, which helps square it away, hence one reason why 3/4" worked for me. Sounds like a good way to break the weld.. My opinion: Be careful, take your time..measure twice, drill once.. Align the side rail up where you THINK yuo want it. Stand back and visually look at it for alignment satisfaction. Mark where to drill. Now re-align to the mark, stand back again and double make sure visually your satisfied, then carefully drill using a drill stop of some sort. Drill smaller "pilot hole" realign rail a third time if you want to pilot hole, visually check again..then open hole full size.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhoffmanlv Posted March 18, 2008 Share #4 Posted March 18, 2008 Well , I did the new hole in the rail technique .. And not as 'precise' as Eck. I removed the saddle bag.. Took the screw out of the side rail were it is bolted to the bike frame in back.. placed a block of wood between bike and rail , and drilled new hole in side rail... Really didn't have to measure, not a lot of room between existing hole and edge of metal.. So basically a little up and over... Worked out real well ... Think V7Goose had some pictures in a post.. yep this is the link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18179 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot Posted March 18, 2008 Share #5 Posted March 18, 2008 I drilled new holes. First take your bags off and use a clamp to hold the rail where you think it should be, then put the bag back on and step back and look to see if that's where you want it. It helps to loosen the front rail bolt a bit so the rail will mover freely. You don't need to put the bolts back in the bags just set them in place to give you an idea. Don't forget to use a piece of wood to protect the fender. When you have it where you want it drill the holes use a new bolts, nut and lock washer with a bit of lock tite and put it all back together. Tighten the front rail bolt back up ready to go riding. Take the time now to put a bit of lock tite on the front rail bolt, I lost one on my 03 because it came loose. Finding a new bolt is not a problem but finding that little chrome piece that goes between the front rail bolt and the front rail, well that's another story..... I lowered mine about 1 inch so you should be OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KitCarson Posted March 18, 2008 Share #6 Posted March 18, 2008 After all of you have went to all this trouble.......it is really quite simple. I originally purchased the saddle bag rails for my venture for the purpose of an what if? What if I do tip it over.....might protect the saddlebags.....when I got them I was not real impressed....they are pretty flimsy.....At a meet and eat it was brought to my attention the rails were out of line. When I got home I looked at them real close and not only were they riding up about 3/4 of an inch high in the back front to back....but if you walked around behind the bike they were riding up on the outside corner and touching the lights......so I looked ....sat down behind the bike in the garage......and Hey...!! The culprit is the little flattened tab on the rear part of the rails that has the hole in it to bolt to the chrome support assembly. The tab is warped......crooked......that is all it is.....I also was worried if I bent it would it break a weld or flake the chrome...it won't......you are not trying to bend any of the welds.....just that thin small flat tab......just loosen the front rail long bolt......does not take much force at all.....just use your hand.....bend the rails into position with the rear tab still secured....tighten up the front bolt......thats all there was to it on my bike......I lost my faith in those rails......they are pretty flimsy....if one did tip the bike over...no more pressure than it takes to just bend them by hand....really do not think they would protect anything if you did tip the bike over....they would just bend up.....bottom of bags will hit anyway....maybe......they are not strong......that is a fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted March 18, 2008 Share #7 Posted March 18, 2008 More for form than function...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Tall Posted March 18, 2008 Author Share #8 Posted March 18, 2008 Thanks everyone for the input....Basically I see three options 1. Bend the rails with my hand after loosening the front bolt...This 're-shapes" the flat back portion of the rail, which is left as is... 2. Drill a hole in the flat rear portion of the rail its self, slightly up on back from the original hole...No drilling in seat support rail attached to fender. Original hole and screw remain as is... 3. Drill new hole in the seat support rail after alignment satisfaction..protect fender with wood/metal....buy new nut and lock washer... So...Last weekend I did an alignment based on 3 above and when they looked "even" with the bags I thought I MANY NOT have enough room in the back to secure a nut and washer...I even went to hardware store to see what sizes they had in SS...It would be close to the curved edge of the seat support.... Anyway...Thanks for all of the input...This site and the members input is one of the main reasons I bought the RSV in Jan last year...I'll "getter done" this Saturday...one way or the other....May take pixs to post as I progress through the options above.... Later, George in Virginia:think: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot Posted March 19, 2008 Share #9 Posted March 19, 2008 It just looks like it will be close, you can enlarge the hole in the rail for a bit more room and drill towards the inside away from the edge. There is foam on the back of the seat mounting rail but it will compress. You'll get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabeetom Posted March 19, 2008 Share #10 Posted March 19, 2008 Thanks everyone for the input....Basically I see three options 1. Bend the rails with my hand after loosening the front bolt...This 're-shapes" the flat back portion of the rail, which is left as is... 2. Drill a hole in the flat rear portion of the rail its self, slightly up on back from the original hole...No drilling in seat support rail attached to fender. Original hole and screw remain as is... 3. Drill new hole in the seat support rail after alignment satisfaction..protect fender with wood/metal....buy new nut and lock washer... So...Last weekend I did an alignment based on 3 above and when they looked "even" with the bags I thought I MANY NOT have enough room in the back to secure a nut and washer...I even went to hardware store to see what sizes they had in SS...It would be close to the curved edge of the seat support.... Anyway...Thanks for all of the input...This site and the members input is one of the main reasons I bought the RSV in Jan last year...I'll "getter done" this Saturday...one way or the other....May take pixs to post as I progress through the options above.... Later, George in Virginia:think: I'm with you George, door #3. Put my rails on yesterday. Same problem with alignment, they ride high at the back. Had to use the Dremel to cut off the L/H saddlebag mounting screw(rear upper inside w/spacer). I think they used JB Weld instead of Loctite. Stripped the hexhead out of it, then used the dremel to cut slot for screwdriver and proceeded to strip that also. Ended up just cutting the head off the damn thing. Will go into town today and look for a replacement screw. As others have pointed out, don't be afraid to use Loctite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Tall Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share #11 Posted March 21, 2008 Ok folks...It's almost Saturday...Am going with the 3rd. option....Thanks Pilot for the input...They have got be lowered and option 1 & 2 just don't look like it will lower them enough.... Will keep everyone posted on this thread... George In Virginia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPG Posted March 21, 2008 Share #12 Posted March 21, 2008 I did option 3, looks great see the pics in my photogallery if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now