Cruise Control lamp replacement

[frankd]

While on our recent trip, the Cruise Control 'SET' light burnt out. On the bulb itself is printed 12V 3W, and the bulb is about .010" smaller than a T 2 1/4, and it's a wedge based lamp. They are no longer available from Yamaha, and online I haven't found a suitable replacement yet. Anybody found a replacement for these bulbs? I know I could replace them with an LED and a resistor, but it'd be so much easier to just plug in new bulbs.

Edited September 4, 2014 by frankd

[Prairiehammer]

Frank, in that application, a LED wedge base lamp will not require a resistor. Resistors are only required when replacing incandescent lamps with LED in the turn signal circuits (to 'fool' the flasher). Just be aware of the physical size of the replacement. LED lamps are often larger than the incandescent that is replaced.

I replaced the 161 wedge base incandescent bulbs in my trailer's lightbar with LED equivalents without issue, other than making certain the polarity was correct.

[Flyinfool]

Frank, in that application, a LED wedge base lamp will not require a resistor. Resistors are only required when replacing incandescent lamps with LED in the turn signal circuits (to 'fool' the flasher). Just be aware of the physical size of the replacement. LED lamps are often larger than the incandescent that is replaced.

I replaced the 161 wedge base incandescent bulbs in my trailer's lightbar with LED equivalents without issue, other than making certain the polarity was correct.

 

Have to careful with that statement. I have never seen a LED that will take 12v without a resistor.

The lamps you are thinking of are rated at 12v because they have a built in resistor.

 

What you need is a type 74 bulb. It is nothing specific to Yamaha.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sylvania-Map-Light-Mini-Bulb/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=16841

[Prairiehammer]

What you need is a type 74 bulb. It is nothing specific to Yamaha.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sylvania-Map-Light-Mini-Bulb/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=16841

 

I have never been able to find a #74 incandescent with greater than 1.4 watts. The bulb(s) in the Venture cruise indicator console is 3 watts, T1¾.

 

Would this one fit and be appropriate?:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/74-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/226/

Edited September 5, 2014 by Prairiehammer

[Flyinfool]

I have never been able to find a #74 incandescent with greater than 1.4 watts. The bulb(s) in the Venture cruise indicator console is 3 watts, T1¾.

 

Would this one fit and be appropriate?:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/74-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/226/

 

I have a set of the #74 bulbs from Super Bright LED for my cruise lights, but have not got around to installing them yet, so I do not know if they will fit (They look to be physically bigger than the incandescent bulbs) or how well they will work.

 

I suppose I need to get my butt in gear and get that done one of these days......

My "Set" is intermittent, it could be a wiring issue, a loose bulb or a bulb ready to burn out.

[frankd]

Thanks for the info Jeff!! I picked up 4 this morning (they come in packages of 2 so I had to buy an extra). The base is slighty wider than the originals, but they did go into the sockets with a firm push.

 

Kevin,

 

Yes, they are only 1.4W and the originals were 3 watts, but there is only a slight amount of difference in the brightness. I haven't installed the light assembly on the bike yet because I had to Plastex around the screws, and I'm letting the Pastex dry all the way, but I did leave one of the old lamps in and installed one of the 74LLs and powered them up on the workbench with a power supply. I could only see a slight difference. Being a little dimmer might help though, because at night these lights (especially the yellow 'resume' light) are just too bright.

 

I looked at the LED replacements you asked about. They should plug into the sockets fine because the originals were about .183" wide, and 3/16"=.1875". As far as brightness goes, you'll just have to try them and see. I'd look around for a white one though. Also, you'll have to install them so that the positive terminal on the LED is connected to the positive lead in the socket. One lead of each socket is connected to the red wire w/blue stripe which is the positive lead, but the sockets themselves only have blue and black wires on them and there is a spice in the light assembly. Use an ohmeter or a test light and find the positive side of the socket and mark it with white ink.

 

Frank

[Flyinfool]

When changing to LED you almost always want to match the LED color to the lens color.

This might just be the one case where you really do want less light so the white might be better:confused24:. The LED replacements that I bought are color matched but are not very bright either so we will see once I get around to installing them. I was kind of hoping for bright enough to be easy to see in full sunlight, and was thinking of making a dimmer to tone them down at night.

 

When I changed all of the rest of the dash lights to LED, I just plugged in the bulb. If it lit I had the polarity correct, if it did not I just puled the bulb and turned it around. I had a 50/50 chance of having each one right on the first try, and was 100% right on the second try.

Much faster and easier than getting out the volt meter to find polarity. If these LEDs last the rated 50,000 hours, I'll be pushin daisies before I have to replace them.

[Prairiehammer]

....so we will see once I get around to installing them.

 

Jeez! TWO, I repeat, TWO screws removed and the bulbs can be replaced. What am I missing?

[Flyinfool]

Jeez! TWO, I repeat, TWO screws removed and the bulbs can be replaced. What am I missing?

 

There are many steps involved.

 

1. Find time and ambition to clean workbench to find the safe location bulbs were put.

 

2. Find screwdriver in back of truck. (did you ever look in the back of my truck?):whistling:

 

3. Take apart cruise display. OK this part is quick and easy.

 

4. Repair cracks in housing as long as it is apart.

 

5. Install LEDs and hook up to check polarity.

 

6. Reverse bulbs that are backwards.

 

7. Put it all back together and put away tools. OK this part is pretty easy too.

 

8. Go for a test ride (This also can take a long time since I tend to get lost when going for a test ride.....)

 

9. Go for another test ride (see #7) at night to see if they are to bright.

 

10. Write up a test report for you to study.......

 

See, not so easy as it sounds.....

[Prairiehammer]

There are many steps involved.

 

1. Find time and ambition to clean workbench to find the safe location bulbs were put.

 

2. Find screwdriver in back of truck. (did you ever look in the back of my truck?):whistling:

 

3. Take apart cruise display. OK this part is quick and easy.

 

4. Repair cracks in housing as long as it is apart.

 

5. Install LEDs and hook up to check polarity.

 

6. Reverse bulbs that are backwards.

 

7. Put it all back together and put away tools. OK this part is pretty easy too.

 

8. Go for a test ride (This also can take a long time since I tend to get lost when going for a test ride.....)

 

9. Go for another test ride (see #7) at night to see if they are to bright.

 

10. Write up a test report for you to study.......

 

See, not so easy as it sounds.....

 

OK, I apologize Jeff. You DO make it seem like a major undertaking. And an undertaking that has to be timed just so. I can see it now.

Sorry.

Mea culpa.

[frankd]

Well, I haven't taken it for a test ride yet, because the cool front has come through and it's raining, but......I did install them and turned the key and cruise on, and all 3 came on. The are slightly darker, but only a little.

 

Now I believe in LEDs but seeing as Jeff knew about these replacements and these lamps only draw 1.4W each, and because you have 2 on when your on cruise or the resume light is on, so that's 2.8W. These bulbs are only consuming .2Amps. Now as for the dash lights, I usually leave mine turned all the way down, so bulb life is extended. If any ever burn out, maybe I'll put LEDs in, but then when I rebuilt 2nd gear on the 83 @ 82,000 miles I changed the bulbs in the dash to some genuine U.S. bulbs that were slightly dimmer. The 83 doesn't have the rheostat to dim the bulbs so they are on full whenever the key is ON. All of them are still working and the bike has 140K on it. Now if they get an LED that'll install in the headlight and provide better light than the Sylvania SilverStar I'll install that. I've got LED driving lights on mine and they are great. 9 Watts each and the light is so welcome that I leave them on all the time.