dna9656 Posted March 21, 2014 Share #1 Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) I have read countless posts on tips to bleed the brakes. I called the local dealer, they are too busy. My question is: What is the YAMAHA method of bleeding? The complete start to finish; assume the guy knows nothing way to bleed the brakes? Then what is the REAL assume the guy knows nothing about bleeding brakes way to do it? I know on cars you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way in. I have a vacuum pump, I think I got the rear/left front brake bled but not sure on the anti dive units. I do know something about bleeding brakes on 4 wheel vehicles. Some posts are written assuming the person needing information knows what the composer of the answer knows so the composer leaves out some information (and leaves some doubt IN) and I get lost. I googled, ehowed, "ask"ed, "Youtube" ed. As far as I can tell it's a big secret. Edited March 23, 2014 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted March 22, 2014 Share #2 Posted March 22, 2014 Same way you bleed car brakes will work usually. The only place you are going to have air is right at the bleeder unless something unusual has happened. Then we can help with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share #3 Posted March 22, 2014 Same way you bleed car brakes will work usually. The only place you are going to have air is right at the bleeder unless something unusual has happened. Then we can help with that. Well it doesn't take a whole lot of effort to make the front brake handle touch the hand grip but you do have to queeze it. That's a whole lot better than the feeling (none) when I started. The rear brake seems about normal. What I have done so far: I first bled the rear brake, then the left anit dive unit then the left caliper. In turn I bled the front (right) anti dive unit then the front caliper. I'm on my 4th or 5th round now. After reading all the posts about traspped air up in some place I can't even see I'm somewhat concerned that I won't get the air out even with my brake vacuum pump. Any advice would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Money Venture Posted March 22, 2014 Share #4 Posted March 22, 2014 I did not know the anti-dive units were part of the brakes. I have a right front brake, but the rear/left front feels like it is full of air. And the clutch line leaks where the metal line meets the rear hose. That one still works for the moment. I need to go look at the anti-dive unit. I know nothing about them. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) I did not know the anti-dive units were part of the brakes. I have a right front brake, but the rear/left front feels like it is full of air. And the clutch line leaks where the metal line meets the rear hose. That one still works for the moment. I need to go look at the anti-dive unit. I know nothing about them. Thanks. If you look closely at the A/D unit you'll see that there is a brake (type) hose from the banjo bolt on the caliper to the A/D unit. So this tells me there is brake fluid in those units and besides the shop manual said so too. Well SOMEWHERE I read that you bleed the A/D units before the brakes and that makes sense as they are further down stream of the calipers. When you hit the brakes the fluid goes into them and goes through a metering valve (or flows out of one) and dampens or stops the forks from diving. Edited March 22, 2014 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 22, 2014 Share #6 Posted March 22, 2014 Look at these two threads, zip tie trick works. After leaving lever pulled in overnight, cut zip tie, relax pull on lever, crack open banjo bolt at master, and let some fluid seep out, tighten banjo. pull lever in again, and repeat opening banjo bolt. Keep rags under so fluid does not get on paint. I have had to do this every time I bleed front brakes. Also helps to tap brake lines a little several times while it is zip tied, this encourages very tiny air bubbles to rise to top overnight. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47431 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47784 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted March 22, 2014 Share #7 Posted March 22, 2014 If you still have the rubber brakes lines, you'll not get a hard feel to the handle. Go with stainless steel lines and you'll not look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted March 22, 2014 Share #8 Posted March 22, 2014 I did not know the anti-dive units were part of the brakes. I have a right front brake, but the rear/left front feels like it is full of air. And the clutch line leaks where the metal line meets the rear hose. That one still works for the moment. I need to go look at the anti-dive unit. I know nothing about them. Thanks. Doug, I'm not sure what bike you have as it is not noted here or your profile. If you have an 83/85, the antidives are hydraulically activated. If you have an 86 up, they are electrically activated. On the 83/85 MKI's you will sometimes get air trapped where the foot brake line goes up and over near the triple tree. What I do, since I don't have speed bleeders, is use a plastic turkey baster tube and screw it into the foot brake reservoir and fill it up with brake fluid. I will then loosen the bleeder valve some and using my finger, have someone pump the brake, and it works like a check valve. This way, it moves fluid through the lines quickly, pushing any air that may be trapped in a high spot out. On the 86 up, I understand there is a valve near the triple tree that you can bleed the line at the high point. RandyA RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted March 22, 2014 If you still have the rubber brakes lines, you'll not get a hard feel to the handle. Go with stainless steel lines and you'll not look back. Where does one locate these stainless steel brakes lines; the apparent Holy Grail of brake performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted March 22, 2014 Share #10 Posted March 22, 2014 Where does one locate these stainless steel brakes lines; the apparent Holy Grail of brake performance? Contact Skydoc, a member on this board and a friendly sort of a fellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) Doug, I'm not sure what bike you have as it is not noted here or your profile. If you have an 83/85, the antidives are hydraulically activated. If you have an 86 up, they are electrically activated. On the 83/85 MKI's you will sometimes get air trapped where the foot brake line goes up and over near the triple tree. What I do, since I don't have speed bleeders, is use a plastic turkey baster tube and screw it into the foot brake reservoir and fill it up with brake fluid. I will then loosen the bleeder valve some and using my finger, have someone pump the brake, and it works like a check valve. This way, it moves fluid through the lines quickly, pushing any air that may be trapped in a high spot out. On the 86 up, I understand there is a valve near the triple tree that you can bleed the line at the high point. RandyA RandyA Here is the front end of my 1983 (says on the title) but the M/N is listed in the parts book in year 1984 XVZ12DKC2 Vin JAY47T004DA000237. The 85 is VIN JAY59J001FA001416. Any one know what model it is? (it's a XVZ12DN) As you can clearly see the hyd. line for the Anti Dive unit comes from the BRAKE CALIPER. The A/D units know you're hitting the brakes because you're applying the brakes.... http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0216.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0215.jpg Edited March 23, 2014 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted March 22, 2014 Share #12 Posted March 22, 2014 Look at these two threads, zip tie trick works. After leaving lever pulled in overnight, cut zip tie, relax pull on lever, crack open banjo bolt at master, and let some fluid seep out, tighten banjo. pull lever in again, and repeat opening banjo bolt. Keep rags under so fluid does not get on paint. I have had to do this every time I bleed front brakes. Also helps to tap brake lines a little several times while it is zip tied, this encourages very tiny air bubbles to rise to top overnight. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47431 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47784 Gary If you do the lever pulled in thing you must remember to leave cap loose so it can breath or it will not release air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share #13 Posted March 22, 2014 If you do the lever pulled in thing you must remember to leave cap loose so it can breath or it will not release air. I got the handle wire tied back and I don't know if it'll help or not but I have the pedal held down too! We'll see in the morning! I Know that trick works for the clutch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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