Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #26 Posted April 13, 2014 Try this.....even though its in neutral, pull in clutch lever and try starter button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #27 Posted April 13, 2014 tried that. where's the starting circuit relay Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #28 Posted April 13, 2014 I'm now getting 11.5 volt on one red wire and the other red wire I'm getting 2.9 volts Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #29 Posted April 13, 2014 check your email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #30 Posted April 13, 2014 Neil my phone is not allowing me to make the phone call. are you outside the United States? on a good note I tried banging in the really against the frame and it is now working the bike crank over and started up. any idea why that might have worked? thanks for all your help ! Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #31 Posted April 13, 2014 email me your number and I'll phone you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #32 Posted April 13, 2014 should I go ahead and replace this relay? Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #33 Posted April 13, 2014 Sure Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted October 22, 2017 Share #34 Posted October 22, 2017 As long as you are in there........ Since you already have the computer out, If you ever intend to convert to a HID or LED headlight or LED brake/tail light, Now would be the perfect time to install the jumpers. Sounds like someone know something I need to know. I just posted a thread about the Led Head Light conversion. I sounds like it is not going to be a simple plug and play. Are taliking about getting the computer to stop telling me my head light or high bean is out after I install the LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted October 22, 2017 Share #35 Posted October 22, 2017 Sounds like someone know something I need to know. I just posted a thread about the Led Head Light conversion. I sounds like it is not going to be a simple plug and play. Are taliking about getting the computer to stop telling me my head light or high bean is out after I install the LEDWell you could get you about an inch of black tape... 3 to be exact pull computet from dash apply to warning spot and red blinky thingy....[emoji23] Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted October 22, 2017 Share #36 Posted October 22, 2017 It is already blinking from the battery water level warning. I think I have tried to ground that probe lead to get that light to go out a long time ago and gave up. Now I just don't even notice the warning light on the dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted October 22, 2017 Share #37 Posted October 22, 2017 It is already blinking from the battery water level warning. I think I have tried to ground that probe lead to get that light to go out a long time ago and gave up. Now I just don't even notice the warning light on the dash Touch that probe lead on 12v and it will go out. If your running a battery without the probe port and want to permanently turn off that little red flashing light without using a hunk of black tape on your dash (personally I like the tape idea Snype, have used it many times LOL) it's best to put a resistor in between the lead and the 12v source (BATTERY + TERMINAL or other) to protect the circuit but I have ran a long while without one and not had issues but it is risky.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted October 22, 2017 Share #38 Posted October 22, 2017 Where did I ever get the idea of grounding it. Great, thanks. So whats the deal with the headlight. That sounded a bit more involved and since I have it up on the lift and the faring off, now would be the time to put in the light. Actually the single beam LED I have left over from my first purchase is so bright I could probably just put it in and never need the high beam. I guess I could put it in just to see if it fits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted October 22, 2017 Share #39 Posted October 22, 2017 Touch that probe lead on 12v and it will go out. If your running a battery without the probe port and want to permanently turn off that little red flashing light without using a hunk of black tape on your dash (personally I like the tape idea Snype, have used it many times LOL) it's best to put a resistor in between the lead and the 12v source (BATTERY + TERMINAL or other) to protect the circuit but I have ran a long while without one and not had issues but it is risky..Hey I would only do that on side of road lol... I used resistor out of site out of mind... Its a quirk for someone with OCD..... That black tape annoys me!!! Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 22, 2017 Share #40 Posted October 22, 2017 As for the battery light, some have gotten away with connecting that lead to 12v, others have fried the computer by connecting to 12v. It is best to use the resistor to be safe. Once it is connected you will never have to mess with it again. As far as the jumpering for the headlight conversion to LED. It all depends on exactly which bulb and how you are connecting it to the bikes wiring whether you will need to do the jumpers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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