antifreeze puke

[rbig1]

well started the bike today. let it sit and run in place snows to deep to move it and ice underneath noticed the temp was rising went to top of green just like summer. wanted to run a little hotter so i shut it down. puked antifreeze out of tank overflow. i think thermostat stuck. tested good this fall and last fall for temp-35. what ya think antifreeze cant go bad that fast can it.:confused07: what now.....

[Sylvester]

Could be the thermostat and I would think that is it. Don't want to think about possible ice or plugged up radiator.

 

[dacheedah]

I would check the temp on your antifreeze

[93 venture]

Bike is pissed off, you woke it up early

[rbig1]

where do you drain antifreeze at. to cold to mess around and will have to drain it to change thermostat anyway. are oem part numbers still good and what all needs changed for thermostat replacement. was hoping for a early start this year. should i replace waterpump while at it. 83 royal xvz1200:fishin:

[Marcarl]

where do you drain antifreeze at. to cold to mess around and will have to drain it to change thermostat anyway. are oem part numbers still good and what all needs changed for thermostat replacement. was hoping for a early start this year. should i replace waterpump while at it. 83 royal xvz1200:fishin:

Plug at the bottom of the waterpump, and then if you look under the rad, there is a little hose coming out of there with plastic nut, needs to be turned to the off position. Position point is at 2 o'clock. You'll need a light to see the writing properly.

[Venturous Randy]

where do you drain antifreeze at. to cold to mess around and will have to drain it to change thermostat anyway. are oem part numbers still good and what all needs changed for thermostat replacement. was hoping for a early start this year. should i replace waterpump while at it. 83 royal xvz1200:fishin:

 

If you have a metal impeller water pump from and 86 up, it would be a good time to replace your 83 pump as they have the plastic impeller.

RandyA

[frankd]

Normally, on Mk 1 (83-85) temperature gauges, the fan comes on right at the top of the green bar. Was your fan ON? If it wasn't, I'd check the connection to the temperature switch that is located on the right side, near the junction of the fairing lower and actual right side fairing half. I don't remember if you have to pull the entire right half of the fairing to get to it or just pull the lower. You will see 2 different devices with wires connected to them here in the metal pipe that has coolant hoses connected to it. As I remember, the outer one is the temperature gauge sensor, and the inner one is the fan temperature switch. On my 83, I found that the connector had become oxidized. I cleaned it with a small wire brush, and also crimped the female half of the connector to increase the force that connected it. I also put a little grease (you can use either di-electric or regular chassis grease) to keep it from oxidizing again. To test the fan and relay circuit, you can turn your ignition key on and just ground the wire....the fan should start. Also tighten up the connectors on the temperature gauge sensor. On my 83, I used to have the gauge quit working randomly until I tightened up these connections. Just use a pair of pliers and tighten the female end.

 

Now we get to why the radiator was puking coolant.....Also on my 83, when this happened, I found that the radiator cap no longer sealed well to the radiator neck. The rubber that seals this had become hard (after only 30 years!!!) I replace it with a cap I was able to get at O'Reily's Auto Parts. I had to grind one of the ears off the new cap to get it to turn and go on. I've will get you the part number a little later because my family is waiting for me to go out now....

 

Frank D.

[frankd]

Here's a previous thread that talks about replacements for the radiator cap.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38450

 

Frank D.

[rbig1]

well drained the antifreeze. tested to -37 on a thextron tester. plastic nut turns by hand. dont care for that must need o-rings replaced. any way the tec shows a tool for seal at pump impeller shaft. looks like parts will run around 150.00. thats rebuilding waterpump,thermostat, upgrade impeller,gaskets. the antifreeze was still almost green. lol.

now going to start another thread. if i have to work on it might as well upgrade clutch:yikes:

[mechanic1]

Can anyone tell me what I can do for replacement coolant hoses? currently fixing to drain oring...and since I have no idea how old the hoses on this thing are I would really like to replace them here at home instead of trying to find 'em out on the road with a very mad wife along...lol:whistling:

[rbig1]

so far found #3 hose replacement advance 5570450,auto zone a71651. that's off this site haven't tried it yet. doing the same thing if you get other hose numbers post on here would ya. any one out there with more info for first gens

[mechanic1]

ok, thanks. Will do

[mechanic1]

Hello gang....need some info about my "86 VR. Thanks to Skydoc I believe I have my coolant seep from the plastic drain plug Oring (I got a 12mm x17mm x2.5mm at Advanced auto parts....has a number above the size...64512.1...) so far seems to be working fine...no leaks yet, although I only have water in it so far and have not given it the road test...( I want to replace all or as many hoses as I can before I put the anti-freeze in it).

I an ashamed to say....I wasn't sure where the on/off was supposed to be positioned...so stuck my nose in the manual and looks as though to drain the coolant it needs to be in about the 2 o'clock position detent and the manual has another image showing a metallic drain plug that is to be removed.....correct? So, question is.....what is the plastic "twist plug" actually do? ....allow it to breath so it will drain better...? At first I thought it allowed coolant to drain from the small screw at it's side but now looks as though it is only to go down into the groove and secure it in place...? ...correct? Also.....if it is not returned to the off position before operation...will it cause the bike to over heat or not cool like it should?

[rbig1]

got my parts today for water pump. used parts monster saved over 60.00 over local yamaaa dealer all factory parts. they just moved all there sites to one address pick what ya ride one location. good parts break down with price. even got factory thermostat

[Venturous Randy]

I an ashamed to say....I wasn't sure where the on/off was supposed to be positioned...so stuck my nose in the manual and looks as though to drain the coolant it needs to be in about the 2 o'clock position detent and the manual has another image showing a metallic drain plug that is to be removed.....correct? So, question is.....what is the plastic "twist plug" actually do? ....allow it to breath so it will drain better...? At first I thought it allowed coolant to drain from the small screw at it's side but now looks as though it is only to go down into the groove and secure it in place...? ...correct? Also.....if it is not returned to the off position before operation...will it cause the bike to over heat or not cool like it should?

 

By turning the plastic hex nut, you allow the coolant to by-pass the thermostat. If you leave it at that setting, the bike will not come up to the proper operating temperature, or in some cases can cause it to overheat.

What I use to go by, because it is easier to see, is the correct operating position is the tops of the letters should be in the 5 o:clock position.

RandyA

Edited January 29, 2014 by Venturous Randy

[mechanic1]

Awww, now that makes sense. Thanks.