Brake Pad Posted October 14, 2012 Share #1 Posted October 14, 2012 (edited) Turned meter to OHM 200 @ (20 there was no reading) the R/R @ 1-2 1-3 & 2-3 all showed 1.6 ohms (the 2.0) the second time no loose pins & wiring was clean,, no burnt pins Edited October 15, 2012 by Brake Pad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted October 14, 2012 Share #2 Posted October 14, 2012 Check 1, 2, and 3 to ground, shouild be infinity reading. Next, start bike, switch meter to AC and all three combinations of pairs should be the same AC voltage level. I'm assuming you are looking at the 3 stator wires where they come into the R/R connector. Don't understand why no reading on the 20 ohm scale, you should have seen 1.6 also... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted October 14, 2012 okay, I did a AC test, and all three pins are showing 26.7 to 28 Volts Thank Bob. what's next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share #4 Posted October 14, 2012 ran bike out to 4000 rpm, all three connections showing 100+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted October 14, 2012 meter to "Diode Test" red to ground on thr R/R I got #1 488 #2 488 #3 490 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share #6 Posted October 14, 2012 tested the battery before starting 12.7 after warming up 12.8 to 13.7 RPM's to 2000 14.8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted October 15, 2012 Is there an easier way to get that Back R/R bolt to go into the hole? Geeez, Two hours of skin grinding, before it went in., My fingers are now dyslexic:doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted October 15, 2012 Share #8 Posted October 15, 2012 tested the battery before starting 12.7 after warming up 12.8 to 13.7 RPM's to 2000 14.8 Doesn't seem to be much wrong with those numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share #9 Posted October 15, 2012 I just don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere, and the bike not start. BIGGEST FEAR!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBeaver Posted October 15, 2012 Share #10 Posted October 15, 2012 meter to "Diode Test" red to ground on thr R/R I got #1 488 #2 488 #3 490 Did you also repeat the test with a lead on the negative terminal, then connecting to 1, 2 and 3? Are you having a problem with you bike? I am a little confused based on your PM with the reported values. Something else to try is to start the bike, set your meter to "AC Voltage" mode and probe the + a - battery leads. Any sign of AC voltage across those leads and your rectifier is toast. Any voltage reading above 14.4V, and your regulator is toast. Bench testing the R/R the way you did is mostly inconclusive (unless something is conclusively out of spec) because the specs for a standard unit are unknown. Also, a static test of this unit can only probe some of the internal circuitry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBeaver Posted October 15, 2012 Share #11 Posted October 15, 2012 I just don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere, and the bike not start. BIGGEST FEAR!!!!! What about having a bad R/R on your bike, while riding, and it fries the electronics on your bike. That would be a good time too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted October 15, 2012 Share #12 Posted October 15, 2012 My next guess would be that when it gets hot the stator may go bad. Take it for a ride and without shutting the bike off, repeat the DC voltage test across the battery. Also, there is another connector for the stator under the seat around the area where the coils are, next to the coolant overflow bottle. There could be corrosion there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 15, 2012 Share #13 Posted October 15, 2012 If you are worried about failure on the road, install a digital volt meter that will read to one or more decimal places. (You only really need one decimal place.) Just keep an eye on the voltage any change up or down of more than a couple of tenths of a volt, while at cruising speed, could be the beginning of an issue but it will give you time to do something about it before you are stranded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share #14 Posted October 15, 2012 just checked the stator line under the seat/passenger floorboard, clean and no loose pins. I checked the battery again before starting 12.88, and at Idle 17.8 Hello Ebay......:mo money: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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