ratrodney Posted October 27, 2011 Share #1 Posted October 27, 2011 Hello. My 86 YVR 1300cc needs new plugs. Wats yer recomendation for a decent plug n plug gap? Has 48,000 miles on it. Anything I should know bout removing old ones before I do it? I mean there isnt anything funky Ill run into is there? Tnx, RR:confused07: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolfVenture Posted October 27, 2011 Share #2 Posted October 27, 2011 I won't go into the plug type for I've not had my VR long enough to experiment. I've heard that the standard NGK or NIP recommended in the Manuel is a good choice by many. As for the removal and installation, I have a recommendation. I would take a small mirror with an extension and try to see if there might be any harmful debree (metal) next to the spark plug that might get into the cylinder. Recently I was changing to new plugs and I could not get the wrench over the nut part of the plug on one plug for the life of me. Finally I took my mirror extension that came with my magnetic extension to pick up dropped bolts, nuts and washers. Sure enough there was a metal electric clip had fallen into the spark plug hole as I was doing some electrical work. I was glad that I was unable to get the plug out for if I had it could have dropped into the cylinder. Now the challenge was to get it out. I could not get it up past the nut part of the plug. So I though maybe I could vacuum it up, but I needed a smaller flexible hose. I was looking around my garage and I found just what I needed. I for some reason kept my lung expander gadget used to expand my lungs after my open heart surgery. I used duct tape to connect the two hoses together. I then stuck the small hose over the plug. A Perfect tight fit. The vacuumed acted like a wind tunnel, big hose to smaller hose and it imbedded the metal fitting in-between the nut part of the plug to the wall. I was able to get the metal piece with a long needle nose plyer. I now use my mirror each time I remove the plug for it only takes about 1 minute per plug. Also, I learned this from Condor. Get from the auto store a small hose about 9 inches long that will fit over the top threaded part of the plug. It makes turning the plug so much easier both on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted October 27, 2011 Share #3 Posted October 27, 2011 I won't go into the plug type for I've not had my VR long enough to experiment. I've heard that the standard NGK or NIP recommended in the Manuel is a good choice by many. As for the removal and installation, I have a recommendation. I would take a small mirror with an extension and try to see if there might be any harmful debree (metal) next to the spark plug that might get into the cylinder. Recently I was changing to new plugs and I could not get the wrench over the nut part of the plug on one plug for the life of me. Finally I took my mirror extension that came with my magnetic extension to pick up dropped bolts, nuts and washers. Sure enough there was a metal electric clip had fallen into the spark plug hole as I was doing some electrical work. I was glad that I was unable to get the plug out for if I had it could have dropped into the cylinder. Now the challenge was to get it out. I could not get it up past the nut part of the plug. So I though maybe I could vacuum it up, but I needed a smaller flexible hose. I was looking around my garage and I found just what I needed. I for some reason kept my lung expander gadget used to expand my lungs after my open heart surgery. I used duct tape to connect the two hoses together. I then stuck the small hose over the plug. A Perfect tight fit. The vacuumed acted like a wind tunnel, big hose to smaller hose and it imbedded the metal fitting in-between the nut part of the plug to the wall. I was able to get the metal piece with a long needle nose plyer. I now use my mirror each time I remove the plug for it only takes about 1 minute per plug. Also, I learned this from Condor. Get from the auto store a small hose about 9 inches long that will fit over the top threaded part of the plug. It makes turning the plug so much easier both on and off. Good tip. I have always used compressed air to blow out any debris before I remove the plugs (using a long flexible tip) but I can see from your post that this may not get everything and without using a mirror, I guess you can't be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted October 27, 2011 Share #4 Posted October 27, 2011 Just this past weekend Marcarl and I were working on the bike. When I went to put the plugs BACK IN if found a small screw sitting on the edge. It could have easily fallen in without noticing and ruined my motor. The mirror idea is a VERY good one!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted October 27, 2011 Share #5 Posted October 27, 2011 Take a plug to your local auto parts store and buy a foot of heater hose that has an ID that grips the plug ceramic shaft. While you are there (if you don't have any already) buy some anti-sieze. When you break the plug loose with the wrench, cut about a 4" section of the hose and slip it over the plug tip and use this "extension" to twist the plug out, saves cramped fingers and a lifesaver if they are 'warm'. Everytime you reinstall the plugs, put a small smear of anti-sieze on the threads. You REALLY don't want the plgs siezing in the head or pulling aluminum threads. Gap the plugs per the service manual and also note the condition of the tips on each one and write it down so you have a log. This WILL pay off down the road. A light brown is the ideal but most VR are set rich so lightly sooted is not unreasonable. Any oil or gas should be noted and steps thought out to correct this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calgaryrider Posted October 28, 2011 Share #6 Posted October 28, 2011 Just did plugs on my 88 and found that the coolant hose clips could cause enough iterferance with getting the socket in straight. A little DW40 to help slid the clips up can save alot of aggrevation and the socket will slip in straight. Just don't do what I did and forget to slide the clips back down befor recapping plugs:no-no-no: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrodney Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted October 28, 2011 Thanks t ton for the tips fellas! Gonna change em out this weekend. Tnx RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted October 28, 2011 Share #8 Posted October 28, 2011 I found that it seemed funny to have a resistor type plug AND a resistor cap, so I removed the resistors from the caps, and replaced them with copper wire of the same size. Bike started soooo much better after that. There is a thread about it on here somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted October 28, 2011 Share #9 Posted October 28, 2011 Here it is. Read this... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41546&highlight=copper+resistor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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