Another connector to watch for tightness/corrosion

[MiCarl]

Riding in the tail of a group tonight and not watching my gauges. Radio started cutting out. Then at a stop the bike completely died.

 

Turns out the connector between the regulator/rectifier and harness had melted apart. Fortunately some digging pieces out of the molten nylon with a pocket knife and a bit of electrical tape got it patched up. A push start later and I was rolling.

 

In hindsight it's kind of obvious this one needs to be cleaned and tightened just like the stator plug.........

[dingy]

This is one that Snaggletooth posted about a while back.

 

The permanent fix is to splice a 12 gauge wire into the wiring between the rectifier plug and rectifier body and run this to a 40 amp fuse on the positive side then to the positive battery terminal. Negative side doesn't need a fuse.

 

The regulator/rectifier has two red and two black wires coming out of it. Tie the two reds together to the line to the fuse at the battery and tie the two blacks together to the negative post.

 

This will eliminate the small wiring in the harness and also avoid any crimp connections buried on the harness.

 

I got a piece of two conductor 12 gauge without ground stranded cord at my hardware store for this. Sort of like heavy lamp cord, Has a black heavy, round outer insulation.

 

Also got a heavy ATC fuse connector at O'riely's Auto Parts and 40 amp fuse.

 

Gary

[Snaggletooth]

Yep, worked out great with a separate harness and hardwire connections. And a much more stable charge but that is more than likely because of the Shindengen R/R.

[reddevilmedic]

im having what may be a similar problem. i already hardwired the stator. melted plugs. but know, after the bike warms up, it start to cut out and act as if its going to die. but it starts going again. the tach drops to zero, bike sputters, and then normal for a mile or two. rectifier?

[MiCarl]

im having what may be a similar problem. i already hardwired the stator. melted plugs. but know, after the bike warms up, it start to cut out and act as if its going to die. but it starts going again. the tach drops to zero, bike sputters, and then normal for a mile or two. rectifier?

 

This sounds more like an ignition system problem to me.

 

Surprisingly mine ran fine until using electricity for the brake lights completely killed it. The only symptom I had was the radio quitting, probably when I used the brakes heading into curves. Surprisingly my ignition system seemed content with less juice than the radio needs.

 

The tack dropping to 0 indicates the TCI is not firing a cylinder (#2 I think). By all means check out the charging system, but I think you'll find the problem is with an ignition component or wiring.