ablumny Posted July 8, 2010 Share #1 Posted July 8, 2010 Hello. I am putting on my new set of Dunlop E3's. Have the rear wheel off and want to grease everything Im supposed to BUT Im wondering if I can use either of these two products I already have? I also discovered I need brake pads so Im done for the night. I hope my local dealer stock them? http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi98dgwrI/AAAAAAAADt0/-8EgarEAQp8/s640/IMG00131.jpghttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi-PunMfI/AAAAAAAADt4/ImK2wgef3P8/s640/IMG00132.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2010 Share #2 Posted July 9, 2010 Although I am not a big fan of mixing grease types, you can probably get by with either of those on the drive splines and drive pins. But I'd prefer to use a lithium base grease with 3-5% molly on those applications. As for brake pads, you do NOT want to waste your money on stock Yamahaha pads on the rear. Make sure you get EBC HH pads - most decent dealers will stock them. For the rear you need EBC 123HH pads. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted July 9, 2010 Although I am not a big fan of mixing grease types, you can probably get by with either of those on the drive splines and drive pins. But I'd prefer to use a lithium base grease with 3-5% molly on those applications. As for brake pads, you do NOT want to waste your money on stock Yamahaha pads on the rear. Make sure you get EBC HH pads - most decent dealers will stock them. For the rear you need EBC 123HH pads. Goose Perhaps I stop by a Honda dealer and buy their stuff I keep reading about then? *thx for the tip on the brake pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted July 9, 2010 Share #4 Posted July 9, 2010 You don't need the Honda stuff. You can get any 3-5% moly infused lithium soap based greased at any auto parts store or even Walmart for less then $4 for a 14oz tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted July 9, 2010 You don't need the Honda stuff. You can get any 3-5% moly infused lithium soap based greased at any auto parts store or even Walmart for less then $4 for a 14oz tube. Cool. Ill go to Walmart then thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted July 9, 2010 Share #6 Posted July 9, 2010 If you want your driveshaft to last longer, use the Honda Moly60. it is about $7 for 3 Oz which is a LIFETIME supply. Get it at the Honda or Acura CAR delearship for the lower cost.. IIRC it is part number 08734-0001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted July 9, 2010 Thanks for the replies. After searching the forums, what Im confused on is exactly what Im greasing! - The splines in the "pumpkin" (I think thats what Ive seen it called)? - Take the sub-assembly off the rear wheel with the pins and grease those? - Am I to take the "pumpkin" off the drive shaft housing, and grease the whole drive shaft and the end with the splines? anything else while I have the rear wheel off? I need to buy a ship manual I think ! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2010 Share #8 Posted July 9, 2010 The splines to which I refer are the ones that mate the rear wheel to the splines in the ring gear in the final drive. When you have the wheel off and lay it on the ground with the brake disc down, the splines are looking you in the eye. The drive pins to which I refer are under those splines you see on the wheel, inserted into six rubber bushings. Yamaha's January 2006 technical bulletin M05-057 calls this sub-assembly that has the drive splines on top and the pins below the "clutch hub", and the pins are called both "clutch pins" and "drive pins". You remove the clutch hub by taking off the large circlip and prying up on the sides of the hub. It tends to come out a bit hard because of the rust that forms on the pins. I do not know how many miles are on your bike or the last time the drive shaft was inspected and greased, but I almost never remove it. Some people here think it needs to be done with every tire, but I do not agree with them. I checked mine the first time at 80,000 miles, and it was not worn at all or severely lacking in grease. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted July 9, 2010 I do not know how many miles are on your bike or the last time the drive shaft was inspected and greased, but I almost never remove it. Some people here think it needs to be done with every tire, but I do not agree with them. I checked mine the first time at 80,000 miles, and it was not worn at all or severely lacking in grease. Goose Thx for the explanation. Exactly what I thought. I have 11K miles on my 03. So maybe I wont take the drive shaft out.... One more thing: On the Dunlop E3's there's a painted DOT on the tire. I beleive that DOT needs to be oppostie the tire valve right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2010 Share #10 Posted July 9, 2010 Thx for the explanation. Exactly what I thought. I have 11K miles on my 03. So maybe I wont take the drive shaft out.... One more thing: On the Dunlop E3's there's a painted DOT on the tire. I beleive that DOT needs to be oppostie the tire valve right?The point dot is the lightest point on a tire (most brands have them, except Avon), and it is usually positioned at the valve stem - the assumption here is that the valve stem will be the heaviest point on an otherwise perfectly balanced wheel. A slightly better practice is to check the static balance on your rim BEFORE you mount the tire, then position the dot at the heaviest point of your wheel, wherever that might be. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #11 Posted July 9, 2010 The point dot is the lightest point on a tire (most brands have them, except Avon), and it is usually positioned at the valve stem - the assumption here is that the valve stem will be the heaviest point on an otherwise perfectly balanced wheel. A slightly better practice is to check the static balance on your rim BEFORE you mount the tire, then position the dot at the heaviest point of your wheel, wherever that might be. Goose Whats the best way for a garage DIY'r to do this? Also, any opinion about pads from Buckeye vs EBC? thx for all the advice \andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted July 9, 2010 Share #12 Posted July 9, 2010 Thanks for the replies. After searching the forums, what Im confused on is exactly what Im greasing! - The splines in the "pumpkin" (I think thats what Ive seen it called)? - Take the sub-assembly off the rear wheel with the pins and grease those? - Am I to take the "pumpkin" off the drive shaft housing, and grease the whole drive shaft and the end with the splines? anything else while I have the rear wheel off? I need to buy a ship manual I think ! Andrew The shop manual is available in PDF format for FREE!!!!!!!!!! Look in the left hand column of any page here for the VRTech link. Drill down the 2nd gen and you will find a link to the manual and LOTS OF OTHER GREAT stuff like hte parts manual that I use to put things back together........ You can click HERE for a direct link to the Second Gen and Royal Star Technical Library I remove the old grease and grease with Honda Moly60 sparingly using an Acid brush from the plumbing department of a hardware store with the bristles cut off to about 3/8". The parts I grease are both ends of the drive shaft, the splines that connect the final drive to the rear wheel, and the pins on the "clutch hub" (Page 7-13 item 7) that connects to the rear wheel. Sense you will be removing the final drive, be sure to change the Gear Oil and have replacement seals for the drain and fill plugs as the Aluminum crush washers are single use items. I replaced mine with Nylon washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2010 Share #13 Posted July 9, 2010 (edited) Whats the best way for a garage DIY'r to do this? Also, any opinion about pads from Buckeye vs EBC? thx for all the advice \andrew Static balancing is easy and very accurate if done with a low friction jig on the axle. You can buy very expensive balance jigs with knife-edge rollers for this purpose, but I do not find those necessary at all. I simply spritz a bit of WD40 on the axle to slick up the grease film that is already on it, then set the wheel between two jack stands - spins REAL easy this way, and you can find balance differences down to about 1/4 oz. I used to use silicone spray on the axle, but found by accident that WD40 mixed with the grease film actually makes it even slicker. The process is even shown in your owner's manual. Correction: Not the owner's manual; see page 7-8 in the shop manual. Goose Edited July 9, 2010 by V7Goose correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #14 Posted July 9, 2010 Thanks, Im pulling down the service manual now. Appreciate the link and detailed advice. Ill use the Honda grease after all.... UPDATE: Goose, again, thank you. I'll tackle the balancing as youve described but where ot get the right weights? ab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibvel Posted July 9, 2010 Share #15 Posted July 9, 2010 check this link out. It will show you the pins, etc. in the rear wheel and the service bulletin. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted July 9, 2010 check this link out. It will show you the pins, etc. in the rear wheel and the service bulletin. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 PERFECT thanks! ab FYI, just ordered full set brake pads from Buckeye Performance....real nice guy ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted July 9, 2010 Share #17 Posted July 9, 2010 Check around at your local motorcycle shops. Somebody should have adhesive weights, each weight is 7g (1/4 oz.). They usually come in strips of 12, with 6 strips in a package. Don't be surprised if you have to get them in steel (which are huge!), the state of California has banned lead weights and the distributors are switching to steel. Anything that supports the axle will do for your balancing stand - I've used sawhorses and two work benches spaced with a gap between them. I've also heard of chairs, chair backs, cinder blocks etc. being used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2010 Share #18 Posted July 9, 2010 You can probably buy self stick weights at most auto parts stores - I bought a big box of them from JC Whitney many years ago. I actually prefer the clip on weights for our wheels since they mount so perfectly to that center rib. But not all clip on weights are made the same, and a lot of them for car rims will not work on our wheel. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share #19 Posted July 9, 2010 RE: weights and balancing: thanks guys. I have a good idea of what to do now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted July 9, 2010 Share #20 Posted July 9, 2010 I've used Lubri-Matic for years. Seems to last forever.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share #21 Posted July 10, 2010 Thank for all the great advice. I stopped by my local Honda Bike dealer and shelled out $10 for a puny tube of Moly60. When I finally got down to pulling the hub with the pins I was floored. Each pin was badly rusted, no lube and there was barely any lube on the external splines. wow. Cleaned up the hub with a scotchbrite pad, Moly60 applied to all the recommended spots and back on the bike it went. I went with the thinner E3 front tire. I can totally feel a difference....kinda feels "lighter" and will take some time to get used to. No balance issues either. I lined up the dot on the tire with the valve, placed each wheel on my jack stands as instructed and no issues. I left the last wet of weights on. Went for a test ride, no vibrations detected. I didnt realize how bad my rear Bridgestone was until I pulled it. Flat in the center like a car tire and cupped on the edges. MY ride is so much smoother now. Again, thx for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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