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Shock absorber - test add air


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Shock absorber – Check pressure or add air pressure, How to?

I have a 2006 RSTD which I have never bothered to check the shock absorber pressure until this week. Using an automobile tire pressure gauge it registered 0 PSI pressure. Is this something for a DIY person to do or should this be done by the Yamaha dealership? Can a bicycle tire pump be used to increase the pressure to the shock absorber? I understand it is a low pressure unit and excceding the maximum pressure can result in damaged “O” ring seals. Thanks. 2 Flights

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This is what I do to set the air pressure in my shocks. I use my air compressor. I have a regulator on it and turn the air pressure down to 5 lbs. or so. Then I let the air out of my rear shock. I check my pressure by adding air to the rear shock and checking it with a pressure gauge. ( I don't trust the regulator gauge reading)

When I have 5 lbs in the rear shock. ( I check this a few times ) so I know the regulator pressure is right. Then I air up my front shocks with this setting.

Then increase the air pressure with the regular on the compressor and air up the rear shock to the pressure I want.

It works for me and I have never blown out a seal.

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This is what I do to set the air pressure in my shocks. I use my air compressor. I have a regulator on it and turn the air pressure down to 5 lbs. or so. Then I let the air out of my rear shock. I check my pressure by adding air to the rear shock and checking it with a pressure gauge. ( I don't trust the regulator gauge reading)

When I have 5 lbs in the rear shock. ( I check this a few times ) so I know the regulator pressure is right. Then I air up my front shocks with this setting.

Then increase the air pressure with the regular on the compressor and air up the rear shock to the pressure I want.

It works for me and I have never blown out a seal.

 

That's a great idea. I have an inline regulator on my compressor, but never thought about turning it down lower than the 40psi for paint spraying. I did buy one of those 'cute' little pumps off ebay and it was a waste of money....

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I bought a small hand pump at the H-D dealer, didn't even cost a hundred dollars.......................Just half that much. Works great and very easy to adjust with the push of a button to reduce pressure if you add to much. Also very easy to pack in the foam holder.

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This is what I do to set the air pressure in my shocks. I use my air compressor. I have a regulator on it and turn the air pressure down to 5 lbs. or so. Then I let the air out of my rear shock. I check my pressure by adding air to the rear shock and checking it with a pressure gauge. ( I don't trust the regulator gauge reading)

When I have 5 lbs in the rear shock. ( I check this a few times ) so I know the regulator pressure is right. Then I air up my front shocks with this setting.

Then increase the air pressure with the regular on the compressor and air up the rear shock to the pressure I want.

It works for me and I have never blown out a seal.

 

 

Thanks for trying this Steve. I've been thinking of doing the same thing for some time now, just never got around to it!!!

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Using the regulator to set the pressure for the rear shock is OK, but any manual tire pump, big or small, will work just as well, and probably quicker.

 

Just an FYI - In my experience, anything below 20 lbs in the rear shock is not good, and for two-up or loaded touring, I find 40 - 45 about right.

 

I personally would never attempt to use the regulator method to set pressure in the forks. If you are careful enough it is probably not dangerous to the forks, but that isn't the point at all. For best handling, it is absolutely critical that both forks have EXACTLY the same pressure, and I'm willing to bet a beer or two that it just ain't gonna happen with that method! Here is the issue: the forks hold such a very small amount of air that even very minor differences will result in significant differences in pressure. Even if the tank and a very steady hand on the chuck does get the exact same pressure in each one, the slight difference in how the chuck is lifted off the valve will often result is a different amount of pffft (escaping air). This is so significant that you cannot even check the pressure in the forks unless you have a gauge with a zero-loss chuck (and all of those I have seen are already attached to a small hand pump!). My suggestion is that if you don't own the necessary zero-loss gauge to properly check the air in the forks, you probably should be leaving them at 0 anyway, and if you DO have the proper gauge, it is already attached to the hand pump you will be using to set the pressure.

 

Riding with a pound or two difference in air between the forks is not particular dangerous unless you are trying to play junior racer, but it certainly will make the bike more tiring and less than pleasurable in the twisties for anyone but the most unskilled riders. The exact problems won't be obvious to most, but if you have been riding that way and then get them set evenly, you will immediately feel better about the bike. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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