JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Share #1 Posted March 16, 2010 Please forgive me, I'm not wanting to start another "oil" preference thread... I've acquired my uncle's 96 RS, and figured I change the oil... Unfortunately he doesn' have the owner's manual, so I just want a quickie "how-to" to change the oil. Also, it only has 4400 miles (not 44,000), and should I put full synthetic? What weight? I typically use full synthetic in my sportbikes & motocross bikes. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddy Posted March 16, 2010 Share #2 Posted March 16, 2010 As long as you stay on top of your oil changes and do good maintenance you can pretty much use any brand oil of your choice. First off stay away from oil labeled "energy conserving oil" not good for your wet clutches. I used motorcycle oil Mobil 1 10w40 good oil but high $$$. But now since I have my RSTD I have switch back over to Rotella T 15w40, I used several oil brands on my bikes in the past and never had any problems with any of them. I used Rotella T 15w40 before it was rated for motorcycles and never had any problems. Going back to Rotella T because its good oil and more $$$ in my pocket. Guessing Rotella - T 15w40 has a new formula now because its showing to be rated for motorcycles now "JASO MA". Main goal is stay on top of your oil changes and you will be OK.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted March 16, 2010 I've got 4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 that's been laying around (I was going to use on my race bike)... Would that be ok? My biggest concern was throwing full synthetic in an older bike w/low miles... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted March 16, 2010 Share #4 Posted March 16, 2010 I would just use the Rotella 15W40. The synthetic could make it start leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted March 16, 2010 I would just use the Rotella 15W40. The synthetic could make it start leaking. THANK YOU!!! That was my concern... What color bottle Rotella? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted March 16, 2010 Share #6 Posted March 16, 2010 White. Wal-Mart. $11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazmocycle Posted March 16, 2010 Share #7 Posted March 16, 2010 i've been using mobil 1 in mine since it had 4,000 miles on it. now has 74,000 without any problems. you can also use syn oil in rearend too. it'll run and shift a lot easier with syn in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted March 16, 2010 Share #8 Posted March 16, 2010 I've got 4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 that's been laying around (I was going to use on my race bike)... Would that be ok? My biggest concern was throwing full synthetic in an older bike w/low miles... I put the synthetic Rotella in my '98 RSTC (22,000 miles) when I bought it last February, hasn't leaked a drop! PO had been using a Suzuki dealer for service and had been using Suzuki dino oil in it. Personal preference is Purolator Pure One PL14612 oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted March 16, 2010 i've been using mobil 1 in mine since it had 4,000 miles on it. now has 74,000 without any problems. you can also use syn oil in rearend too. it'll run and shift a lot easier with syn in it. My concern was since it's 14 years old with only 4400 miles, and possibly gaskets may be a little dried up and synthetic would cause leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eusa1 Posted March 16, 2010 Share #10 Posted March 16, 2010 I would just use the Rotella 15W40. The synthetic could make it start leaking. ok??? i'll bite?? why would this make anything leak?? and where would it leak what?? i understand and agree with the wet clutch issue, and i'm not a synthetic user in any motorcycle, but???leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddy Posted March 16, 2010 Share #11 Posted March 16, 2010 its hard to say, some have put full Syn.oil in high mileage bikes and never had any problems and other have stated it cause theirs to seep oil ?and went back to Dino oil instead and the seeping stopped. Being a low mileage bike like you have its hard to say? Like how long has it been setting without being started? or has it been ridden much in the past? or the last oil change etc etc. I for one never really had any problems on any of my bikes going from Dino oil to Syn. oil. Dino oil may seep out as well If its not been ran in many years, due to the seals being stiff. So you have a 50/50 chance either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted March 16, 2010 Share #12 Posted March 16, 2010 Most any oil will work as long as it isn't 'Energy Conserving'. There is a label that looks somewhat like a sun on the back of the oil bottle. Written in a ring around the edge of this label it will say 'Energy Conserving' or have a blank space. Go into WalMart and randomely pick up a quart of oil and look - you will see it. The additives that go into making the oil 'Energy Conserving' are not compatible with a wet clutch. Look around and you will find a handful of brands and types that do not have the 'Energy Conserving' label. Rotella T is one of them that is pretty easy to find. $15 or so for a 5 qt jug. Do a quick search in the 2nd Gen Tech Library and you will find a cross reference for the filters. There is a Walmart filter that's pretty good, but I don't recall the part number. Next, when you are filling the oil, do not fill it more than half way up the sight glass (near the foot brake pedal, toward the front but down low). If you do, it will leak out the overflow and make a mess. Won't hurt anything, just make a mess. When filling stop a little before 3 quarts and check. Next, there is also an electronic copy of the owner's manual (at least one for a 2nd Gen) in the Tech Section. I just realized you have one of the 'tweeners (between the 1st Gen Venture and the 2nd Gen Venture). I'm not really sure if your engine follows the 2nd Gen or not. Someone will jump on here and clear this up. Lastly, welcome to the family. Pics of your bike are required. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share #13 Posted March 16, 2010 It's running fine, and was run on occasion by my uncle, and no leaks. But not enough to keep the carbs clean, which is my only issue on the bike (other than NEEDING BIG CARBS!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted March 16, 2010 Share #14 Posted March 16, 2010 Before taking the carbs out to clean them, run some Seafoam thru it. Put a can of Seafoam in a tank of gas and go for a ride. If the carbs are really gunked up, you can put Seafoam directly into the bowls and let it soak for a night. And yes, the 28mm carbs could use a little more air. In the 2nd Gen they upped this to 32mm. Perhaps Pegscraper can help with getting you upgraded into a little wider throat. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyQuest Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share #15 Posted March 16, 2010 Running Seafoam through it now, and riding it liked a raped-ape. Here's a pic before I put 6 hours of detailing (looks showroom now) and new white-walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddy Posted March 16, 2010 Share #16 Posted March 16, 2010 Thats one Pretty ride you have there. I have a feeling this bike going to be seeing more than 4,000mi this year. Remember when you reach 50,000 miles your just getting warmed up and when you reach 100,000 miles, the motor will be broke in by then and be ready for another 100,000 miles.. They Don't call these XVZ motors bullet proof for nothing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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