Suggestions for adding power for lights, gps

[jonsmyth]

I saw freebird's suggestion for using relays- but wondering about adding a couple of wally world driving lights, and a 12volt outlet for a gps.

 

I was wondering a good place to wire in the new 12 volt high amp circuit- and if i should place a fuse in line as well.

 

I don't want to fry the computer!

[Snaggletooth]

I ran the main power feed off the extra line on the fuse panel and then to the relay. I spliced into the high beam light and used that as a trigger to kick in the relay. I did use a smaller fuse in the new power line to the lights (besides the fuse in the panel) to keep it on the safe side. If the lights blow the smaller fuse you keep everything else and you know right where to go to fix it.

[MiCarl]

I ran the main power feed off the extra line on the fuse panel and then to the relay. I spliced into the high beam light and used that as a trigger to kick in the relay. I did use a smaller fuse in the new power line to the lights (besides the fuse in the panel) to keep it on the safe side. If the lights blow the smaller fuse you keep everything else and you know right where to go to fix it.

 

If you're talking about the accessory hook up post I believe it is fused at 10A, which is marginal for a pair of 55W lights.

 

I've got fog and driving lights. They are powered directly from the battery, with a 15A fuse. The lights are switched by relays which are tied into the high and low beam circuits (fogs on low beam, driving on high).

 

I also have a 20A rated switch to cut off the power supply. I find that in stop and go driving there isn't enough juice keep the voltage up (the anti-dives seem to use lots of power), so I turn them off.

[Snaggletooth]

I installed an upgrade (blade) fuse panel a year ago. It has extra fuses not required for the stock system so I have an advantage of running seperate curcuits for add ons. I run 15 amp fuse in the panel and a 10 amp on the line as a backup for the drivers.

 

I installed the Buckeye upgrade stator this spring and it does a great job of pulling the load. With the 55 watt drivers, the rear light bar and the marker lights along with the stock lighting it only drops to 13.5 at an idle. Stopped with the brake lights on it will drop to 13.2. Running down the road she stays at 14.2 with everything on.

 

I'm happy with those numbers.

[MiCarl]

I installed an upgrade (blade) fuse panel a year ago. It has extra fuses not required for the stock system so I have an advantage of running seperate curcuits for add ons. I run 15 amp fuse in the panel and a 10 amp on the line as a backup for the drivers.

 

I installed the Buckeye upgrade stator this spring and it does a great job of pulling the load. With the 55 watt drivers, the rear light bar and the marker lights along with the stock lighting it only drops to 13.5 at an idle. Stopped with the brake lights on it will drop to 13.2. Running down the road she stays at 14.2 with everything on.

 

I'm happy with those numbers.

 

Just wanted to make sure we weren't talking about the accessory post. My power for the lights runs through my upgraded panel too, point is we both have power directly from the battery.

 

My stock stator can keep up with the lights too. The issue is with the brakes applied the voltage dives to 12V (with lights off, and lower with them on). I think the electric anti-dives on the MKII really eat up the power.