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joekay

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Personal Information

  • Name
    Joe

location

  • Location
    Enfield, United States

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  • City
    Enfield

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  • State/Province
    AL

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    2001 Venture
  1. I had a crack at an attaching point in my lower fairing below the radiator that I bonded together with ABS cement that is used for plumbing fittings. Once bonded, I applied multiple layers to add strength. No issues after a year. Unlike the glues made for plastic, ABS cement actually melts the plastic so it can be reflowed together. There are ABS plastic sheets available in .060", and pieces can be cut and successively bonded in layers to make a structure.
  2. Yes - the different hole sizes makes sense to distinguish between forward bank cams and rear bank cams. At least I'm not scratching my head on that one - the rear bank cams haven't been taken out - just the front.
  3. In the process of taking care of a coolant leak from the head gasket on my 01. Before pulling the head, I timed the engine to #1 TDC, and noted the marks for the rear cylinder bank cams, and assumed the front would be the same (first mistake). The marks are small hole on the cam lining up with thin line on the cam cap. Now I find that the manual shows a different timing mark for the forward cylinder bank exhaust cam. It says to line up the "big hole" on the cam with the timing mark, which the picture shows as a hole on the cam cap. There is no hole on the cam cap! The attached pic has red arrows pointing to what I think the timing should be, which is the same timing as for the other 3 cams. The crank is rotated ahead 70 degrees for #2 TDC for this pic. I consulted with a local dealer, and they think the exhaust cam large hole lines up with the oblong mark on the cam cap. Doesn't seem right to me as to why the timing should be different for the forward cylinder exhaust cam. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who's "been there".
  4. I got the unit on Amazon. They're on there starting around $185. The job putting it in is extensive. I pulled out the entire original system, which requires some disassembly. Once the fairing is off, the speedo unit needs to come out, and the molded sides that hold the cassette need to be cut out to make room for the amp unit. I used Styrofoam packing blocks to cushion the amp and secured it with tie wraps. I added an extender cord to the usb input for my mp3 unit. The commander needed an L bracket that I made to mount to the original bracket.
  5. No CB. Just going with Bluetooth headset and cell phone.
  6. The cassette was taken out. What you see is just the cassette door that was removed from the cassette itself, and has been temporarily held in with double stick body trim tape. I’ve got my eye on putting in the mini gauge trio to fill up the gap as found elsewhere on this forum.
  7. .. and hello to the replacement Clarion CMS1. It's made for a marine application, so it can handle the weather. A little larger than the stock commander, but now in the modern age with inputs for sat radio, ipod, and mp3. Still within thumbs reach on the volume, and plenty loud. I yanked the entire original system out except for antenna, and have it posted in the classified section. http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo41/josephk300/ClarionCMS1Stereo-remotecommander.jpg The amp unit "under the hood" http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo41/josephk300/Fairingbackhalfrightview.jpg Cover for rear control made out of bondo http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo41/josephk300/Rearspeakercontrolbondocover.jpg
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