venturerider09

I agree with everyone else, bolt 'em on and let 'er rip. I put 4" Freedom Performance slip on's on my '09 RSV and never had a problem in over 70K miles, though I did leave the baffles in because with them out it attracted too much attention for the local Constabulary, if ya' know what I mean.....

I want to thank everyone that offered help and advice with this problem. Like I said in the original post, I was trying to get the bike back on the road for a retired/disabled friend who is financially strapped right now and it's his only transportation. With the assistance of the great folks on this forum, and the technical information in the library of this forum, I was able to get him back on the road for less that $75 including the cost of a used fuel pump. Thanks again, just goes to prove my point when I say true bikers are always willing to help one another. Ride safe all.... Gabby

I keep checking but haven't received anything.

Agreed, it is in fact suffering from both problems. One at a time......

Sweet! He is bringing the bike back to me tomorrow to install the used pump, I've read about the points and will take the cover off in the morning to check them and clean them up in the morning if needed before I install it. So correct me if I'm wrong: this issue with the switch mostly effects the power to the fuel pump? Or does it also control the power to the ignition control, coils, etc.? The reason I ask is if I bypass the switch and wire the pump to the battery (through a relay) to verify it's operation and the switch does have a problem, will it kill power to the ignition? Last question for tonight: how much is the bypass harness and how soon can I get one shipped if he wants to order it? Thanks mucho for all the help and advice. Gabby

Is the ignition bypass difficult? When the switch is removed, is the bad contact obvious or is it something that still needs to be tested? Did you use the bypass harness available from another member through this forum? A lot of questions, I know and I apologize, I just want to do right by my friend. I have good mechanical skills and a factory manual, I've pretty much always done all my own work. If the switch is bad, I've located another one (used) for $130 (again, trying to save him money) that is hopefully a good unit.

Thanks, yes. The vent hose has been checked for obstruction, flushed the tank and checked the petcock for debris, all good. Going to replace the fuel pump again with a used factory pump and try it again. If it has the same issue, I'm thinking I'll wire the pump directly, with the relay, and try again. The local dealer is absolutely no help, partly because they are more interested is selling him a new bike rather than fix one that's 12 years old and partly because they're idiots and have no idea what the problem is. They've sent him out twice saying there's nothing wrong, only to have it die again on the way home (the first time before he even got out of their parking lot). One thing at a time I suppose.

I've pulled the tank to flushed it out and check the vent, pulled the petcock to make sure it was clear of any debris, changed the fuel filter and all of the fuel lines. The last time it died, when I go there with the trailer to get him I pulled out the voltmeter before doing anything and found 12.04 volts to the pump, no clicking noise (new pump, cheap Chinese knock-off but that's what he ordered). Punched the starter and it fired up, stuttering at first then smoothed out and ran great (I think he may have flooded it trying to start it again). I've ordered, and just received, a used factory Mitsubishi pump from Pinwall Cycles to see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, I need to go a different direction. My thought is to wire the fuel pump as described, using a relay, and run the bike for a few days. If it doesn't have any issues, then my thinking is that I'll need to replace or bypass the switch. Am I thinking in the right direction or just banging my head against the wall?

I'm helping a friend with his 2006 RSTD and his problem is that the bike is running down the road great, and suddenly dies like he ran out of fuel. Let it sit for a few minutes and it'll usually fire right up, sometimes running like a bat out of hell and sometimes running a little sluggish. I owned an '09 RSV and started experiencing similar issues at about 50K while on the road, it was towed to a dealer and they replaced the fuel pump. No more problems (until some dumb*** ran me off the road and the bike got totaled, another story for another time). Using that info, I told him he needed a new pump which he ordered. Easy install, new filter at the same time (not as easy as the pump), and it fired right up. Ran for about 1/2 hour and died, exact same problem. In researching posts on this forum, it seems that the ignition switch is another source of problem. So the reason for my post is A) how do I test the ignition switch to see if that's his problem, B) is there an easy by-pass to get around this switch issue (without replacing the switch) and C) is it possible to just wire the pump to the battery (using a relay excited by a wire powered from the ignition) and will this work? His funds are extremely limited (retired/disabled) so any help is much appreciated. Gabby

Another thing to look at is the pivot bolt, that holds the stand on, and the bushing that the bolt slides through. I've had two friends that were complaining about the same thing and it turned out on both that they'd never removed the bolt and cleaned/lubricated it the entire time they've had the bikes. The bushing was worn out on both of them which also wears out the bolt. A trip to Yamaha for new bushing and bolt, liberal application of some white lithium grease, and they're both back in business. Marv