I have now completed the installation of my Classic Instruments Tach like the one at the top of this thread. Here is what I had to do to get it to work correctly. I mounted it almost the same way as the tach at the top of this thread. I went to Walmart and bought a stainless steel ladle for $5.50, removed the ladle part and bent the handle to fit the bike as described by pertwo earlier, cut down the chrome tach cup by 5/8 inch to clear the windshield then welded them together with stainless wire in my mig welder. I practiced a little on the ladle and the part of the cup that I cut off just to make sure I had my welder set correctly, it worked great. Instead of using silicone between the ladle handle and speedometer housing I used a strip of velcro about 2 inches long right under the tach, it works great and doesn't show unless you really look close. Got it all mounted and hooked up and it showed half RPM with the setting on 4 cylinder. Here is how I had it hooked up. Power and ground from the headlight housing, that way the wires don't constantly flex, the tach signal wire went to the white wire on the coil for #4 cylinder (front, right cylinder). Phertwo stated that he has his tach set on 12palt and mine didn't work on that setting so I tried the other settings and 4 cylinder is the closest at half RPM which makes perfect sense if you consider how our bikes fire. That is when I made the adapter that is described toward the top of this thread where it says (build). It is designed to hook two coils to the tach to double the signal without allowing the coils to enteract with each other. In my earlier post you can see that I couldn't get that to work on this bike. This is when I called Classic Instruments for help and he told me to buy a (SGI8) from Dakota Digital. I called them and they assured me that it would work but that it is not waterproof. I bought one on ebay for $75 and it works great. Here is how the tach is now hooked up. Tach power and ground still in headlight housing, power to the SGI8 is from the red w/black stripe wire on the coil, tach input on the SGI8 is hooked to the white coil wire, output 2 on the SGI8 is hooked to the tach signal, ground on the SGI8 is hooked to a bolt under the tank. Now for the settings on the SGI8. Switches 3&4 are both off ( that is for a 4 cylinder tach setting (the tach is still set for 4 cylinders) there is a little green light that flashes to set the SGI8 for engine cylinders, you want it set for 2 cylinders and then it works great. I hope this helps anybody that tries to use this tach or probably any other automotive tach. The cost did get up to real close to $300 but what the heck, it looks really nice.