Reaney in NH

yes it will.... as soon as I get the adapter I will post results

This cam swap has been done many times by many people on this forum with no issues and a huge improvement in performance. Thank you for your input... but the CR on this bike has nothing to do with my current problem. I either bent a valve... or possible problem with a shim or shim cup. I'll know more when I get the leak down tester.

Good Morning everyody, I thought I would give a little update and perhaps get a little advice. I removed the heads... made a Valve compressor tool and swapped in the Vmax springs and the Vmax cams. I thought it all went pretty well. As I was putting it back together I did rin into a little trouble figuring out cam timing positions. The Manuals instructions were very confusing and lacked some key info. I found this... http://vmaxchat.yuku.com/topic/11324/How-to-replace-time-in-your-Camshafts which gave some very clear instructions. Using that info it went right together. I cleaned and rejetted the RSV carbs... reset float levels per Gooses instructions. Installed and fired it up. I balanced carbs... they were off quite a bit and it seamed to run ok. But it would pop out left side... Popping seemed like it went away after more idle screw adjustment but the throttle seemed a but flat... not the crip snap one would expect. I test drove it. I was disappointed and it popped like crazy. Back on the lift.... I discovered #2 cyl is not pulling at all. Its causing the popping out the exhaust. My guess at this point is I did something wrong... like bent a valve.. got it to tight or something causing it to leak. I do not have a compression or a leak down tester to fit the small plug... but its been ordered.. will be here by Sat. The Cyl pulls good vacuum ... its strong and stable. On a car, a leaking valve will cause a vac gauge to flutter like crazy... I was able to balance the carbs with the Carbtune vac gauge. In case anybody is wondering... Coil to #2 is firing, I checked. I switched #1 and 2 plugs... miss stayed in #2 cyl. I tried enriching the fuel by adding carb cleaner thru vac house... with no change. Other 3 cyls all Balance test strong... #2 is doing nothing. Bike was brand new to me.. I rode it less then 1 20 miles and was not impressed with its power... its possible it had and issue before my work... I cant say for sure either way. Your thoughts?

Thank you Gary.... I got it using the info in the link I posted. It was very straight forward using the info he posted. Took less then an hour to get all four cams in and chains tight and covers on. Thanks for the help

After hours of searching I found this....http://vmaxchat.yuku.com/topic/11324/How-to-replace-time-in-your-Camshafts It would appear I am not te only one that has had trouble with this. The info in the manual is wrong... and misleading and really does not make sense. but this info looks to be excellent... I will apply this tonight and report back in hopes of helping others in the future. Thank you

Thank you... That says word for word the same as the FSM does... It says to use small hole as the mark on the cam... but there is more then one small hole. I just need to know which small hole to use.

I have my 96 RSTC apart...I pulled the heads to install Vmax cams and valve springs along with some other upgrades. I am installing the heads and I'm confused about the timing marks on the cams.The book says to line up the small holes to a mark on the head. There are to many holes. Which holes do I use? There are some very small holes... then a little bigger in a different position. I should have paid closer attention when I took it apart..But I figured the FSM would tell me what I needed to know. A Picture or a better procedure would be great. Can you help?

Hey Chuck... How much you looking to get for the Corbin? Thanks for the helps guys. My Bike is going in the shop today for a bunch of upgrades. It will be down for at least a week. Depending on parts. Thanks Reaney

Can anybody help with this?

I'm trying to figure out what seats will fit my 96 Tour Classic. I can mod brackets and change positions. I'm more concerned about the shape of the seat pan to it will clear the bikes frame and fender mounts. I liked my Corbin seat i had on my prev RSV... and would like to find a use Corbin for this bike. Will the RSV seat fit with a bracket mod? What models will? Another seat that looks interesting to me is the Danny Gray seats. They say it will fir 05 and newer tour deluxe. What is different on the 05 seat compared to me 96? Thank you

For the cam swap & Valve springs.... If I did choose to remove the heads for the install... are the heads removable with the engine in the frame... or do I need to pull the engine too? If I remove the heads... will the standard valve spring compressor like i would use on a car work on these heads? I'm an old school car mechanic... have not done alot of in depth engine work on bikes. but I am looking forward to this project. I want to log some miles in between each upgrade so I can feel the changes as they happen. I'm really impressed with the results others have gotten... a 50% increase in HP is pretty remarkable for the minimal investment in parts... and all stock Yamaha parts.

OK... I figured out the Jets.... you can use the Small round or the large round jets.. the Pilot jet are for the VM 28/486 #17.5 Yamaha part # N102.221-125 ... the last 3 numbers are the jet size Dennis kirk is the large round... 17-418 I think. i hope this helps someone in the future.

Can I do cams and valve springs with the heads on the bike? Does anybody know if I can?

I may be wrong, but it is my thinking that with the slides being opened by vacuum, opening up the air box too much may impact how efficiently the slides move. I know that on 1st gens, when you mess with the air box, it usually runs worse. Take the air box off and many barely run and will backfire everywhere. RandyA They run worse because they are lean and get to much air. it has nothing to do with the vacuum that opens the slides. This can be compensated by adding the proper jets and correct tunning.

These bikes can be real sensitive on mods to the airbox. Opening up the airbox may cause the carb slides to not have enough vacuum and not open properly. RandyA Maybe I'm missing something... But How can opening the air box up effect how the slides operate? I can certainly see how it can effect A/F mixture.... requiring jetting changes and tuning. But the slides operate from an internal vac source... So I dont see how airbox can effect it. If this is the case... can you explain?

I'm gathering parts to do some upgrades on my new to me 96 Tour Classic. I scored a nice set of Venture Carbs, Carb boots & air boxes on ebay... a local machinist buddy will make the plates and shave the boots. My question about the carb... Main jet parts numbers?? 125 mains is where I will start with 17.5 Pilot. Without taking my carbs apart... I'm not positive on the correct ones. Can you help? are they Large Round mains? Small round? Hex? Vmax Cam & Valve springs swap? Can I do this with the heads on? never done a bike before.. but Ive many valve springs on cars by injecting air into the cyl to hold valve.. can I do this on the bike? I am buying the tool for the Valve shims.... anything else I need? I am installing a 4 into 2 exhaust... I purchased in ebay. I beleive the head pipes are stock Venture... muffs included are straights... I dont think I will use them. Planning Road King muffs with centers punched out. Also planning DynaTek DK37-4 ..... Not sure on Air intake... but prolly run a stock airbox opened as much as I can. I'm not a fan of K & N... I really think they let to much dust on the engine. Any thoughts... anything I'm missing? Thank you Reaney

I'm no expert... But it would appear you really only need the REAR Head pipes fron the RSV 1999 and newer... and then suitable mufflers. I am using Road Kings on mine. You will also need to fab a rear bracket to support the mufflers. I will be doing mine as soon as I get it home. it is still sitting in the sellers garage waiting for clear roads and warmer weather up here in NH. Hope that answers your questions.

Still does not really answer my question. I know the gears will interchange. but getting the gears set up correctly can be very tricky and hit or miss. Still looking for some one that has put the whole diff in ... after machining out the Speed sensor hole. There seems to be some question reguarding the axle and a spacer??

mite sound better... But Would rather have the extra $100 in my pocket.

I have been searching and getting very conflicting information. Some info says the FJR diff will work... some say it wont. Has anybody made this work in your 2nd Gen or RST? The FJR1300 is half the price of the Vmax and has same gear ratio.

Thank you for the responses. I have Emailed him.

I know this is an old thread... But was this resolved and what was the problem? Lots of great troubleshooting tricks in this thread.

Scored a full 4 into 2 system on Ebay. not sure what the muffs are... mite be straights. If they are to loud I will install some modified Road Kings. Thank you

Thank you to all that replied. I will attempt to install and document the install of the Audio Vox CCS100 System. I have done it in the past of a Vulcan. I will try hard to take pics and a description on how its done. I have used Throttle locks for years and will install one on this bike. but its just not even in the same ball park is a nice electronic CC. Thank you for your input. I got some good info.

Thank you for the info. Does anybody make the adapter plates?