venturega

Not sure what diagnostic light you are talking about. The dash warning lights work fine. There are also LED diagnostic lights on the back of the Dyna 3000. The green light means unit is powered up and the red light indicates 50% of wide open throttle. Can be checked with ignition key turned on and then twist throttle (bike not running).

They say the #2 curve is what should be used and #1 is for engine mods. I'll check back with them next week to be sure. That is what the paperwork that came with the module said so be careful. Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

Here is the link to software download - module must be plugged in to look at and modify the curve. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/CURRENT%20MASTER%20CURVEMAKER/Dynatek_CurveMaker_D3K.zip

No. You have to change the numbers in the table (using the downloaded software with the module connected). The table has RPM in one column and degrees of advance in the other. You can change the degrees of advance to retard or advance the timing. You can also change the rev limiter RPM setpoint. Then you have to hit the load program icon and it will load to the module. Always make small changes and always keep record of where you started. It is not for the layman mechanic. I got the recommended changes by calling their Tech Support number. I'm sure you can do some damage if the numbers get too far out of time or the bike just won't run. The low RPM was the only problem I had with the module and it worked fine when beyond the 1500 RPM level so I only changed the 3 lowest rpm settings. I talked to Larry at Tech support so he should know about someone calling to work on a 2005 Yamaha Venture at low RPM. Hope that helps.

I called the Dyna people and got some help from the guy there. First off opening the software can be a problem if not opened as the administrator on the computer. Since I was having trouble at the low end RPM he had me change the low end advance as follows (using curve 2): 100 rpm from 3 to 5 800 rpm from 3 to 5 1500 rpm from 3 to 5 He thought these were the stock module numbers. This seemed to make a difference in the lagging throttle at low end rpm's but I only got to ride around the neighborhood a little while before Momma called me in. I am taking a long weekend ride so I am going to leave it alone while I'm ahead and play with it some more next week. Ralph

I put stoppers in both AIS lines and then reconnected the hoses. I pulled both exhaust pipes and checked the Y joint - no holes. I installed new gaskets when putting the exhaust back on.

I removed the Dyna and installed the stock ignition module. The lag on throttle up goes away but the popping on decel comes right back. While I was in there I pulled carbs cleaned jets and resynced the carbs. I sent two emails over the past two weeks to DYNA about the throttle up issue but got no reply. I would suggest not buying one since customer service so far is non existent. I will try calling their 800 number next week. Any idea what could be causing the popping with stock ignition module. I have no exhaust leaks, clean carbs, no hoses cracked or leaking, AIS is plugged and has been that way for 7 years with no popping. Could it be coils or plug wires? What else can I check?

Have not tried the other curve. Think it said something about having engine mods before using the other curve so I wasn't going to try it. Busy the next week or so, so I am not going to get a chance to work on it for a couple of weeks. It rides fine just have to throttle up on take off.

I believe it only has curve adjustments. No tach but turning up idle screw reduces the lag when throttling up. But it is idling too high when I do that. Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

I was trying to avoid taking it back out. Battery box was a pain in the a$$ to remove. I tried the 93 octane and rode to work but still doesn't have the same spunk on throttle up in 1st gear. I may send something in to their tech services. If it continues I'll pull it out and see how the old one compares. Runs great outside of sluggish throttle response - like it lags when blipping the throttle. Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

Yes. Carbs were synced but I have not removed and cleaned. Bike has 70,000 miles so it can't be gummed up. I ride all winter.

I checked exhaust pipe temps at idle and all are getting hot.

Anyone have issues with the operation of the new Dyna 3000? 2005 Venture was popping a little on decel and checked carbs, exhaust leaks, hoses and found nothing so decided to try the ignition module since some have said that stopped popping. Well popping is gone but now there is a hesitation when throttling up in first gear. No power issues and no hesitation when moving. It feels like the bike is choking when starting off and I have to rev it up to keep from stalling. This was not the case until I installed the Dyna 3000 this weekend. I did not modify the curve setting just installed with the default curve (curve 2). No dip switches on this one - it has the USB connection. Ralph Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

I have this same leak at the bottom bolt of the fake fins and will try to get a replacement plug tomorrow. How does the old plug come out - just pull it out? Also, will coolant come flowing out while I'm trying to get the new plug in? Any helpful hints?

Thanks for the pictures. I can't see how everything was working fine and I was able to take the wheel off with no trouble. I don't see what they could have done at the shop to screw up the collar and bearing. I'll be going back in the morning to see if they have any answers.

I just had a new tire put on my rear wheel and now I cannot get it back on. I think the step down collar (#5 in the diagram) is in the wrong place but I can't remember what it looked like when I pulled it off. The collar is on the outside of the needle bearing on my wheel and in the parts diagram it shows it being on the inside of the needle bearing. Not sure how it could possibly have come out by just getting a tire put on and balanced. Is the diagram correct and should the step down collar be on the inside of the wheel and not on the outside like mine. Pic attached I think.

You can use Basecamp (Garmin's software) - not sure if you can download Basecamp for free, check Garmins web page. There is also a free download called Tyre that works pretty good. Both take some practice to learn how they work. Web page for Tyre download is Tyretotravel.com. The free version has ads but it's free.

Yes - i managed to get that right. Thanks for the help. I have decided to go back with a new stator since I don't want to go back through this again anytime soon. My luck I would fix the old wire on the stator, get it all back together, go on a long ride and break down. Not worth the $200 bucks and time to break this thing apart. Again thanks for the help - I need to learn to ask first and then use the tools!

Since I'm showing my ignorance - I also turned the motor over using a socket wrench on the generator rotor bolt while I was trying to figure out why the cover would not come off. Could I have screwed up the timing or anything by doing this? It felt as though the motor just ran through a cycle and nothing loosened up. I went both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Glad I could help! Looks like I did mess up the stator wire (has a nick in it where it goes in the crankcase cover). Not sure if it can be reinsulated in that spot. I may try and post a picture later.

I'm embarrassed to say this but I tried to remove the left side crankcase to install my new clutch spring. I got the clutch installed on the right side but only after I screwed up the gasket and the starter clutch wiring on the left side crankcase. How hard is it to remove the left side crankcase and replace the stator coil wire since I think I damaged it while trying to remove the cover? Also it feels like the (left) crankcase cover has something keeping it from coming right off ( springs back when pulled on). Is there something I need to know about when removing that cover?