AmnChode

Well...for any case (Gen 1 or 2), this is the bluetooth controller I use (that I linked above). It not weather/waterproof, but is also cheap enough that if it gets toasted it's no big loss either. The controller itself pops out of the holder and comes with second holder that has double back tape backing (think dash mount). You can basically leave the holder mounted, pop the controller itself out, and stash it in the trunk if the weather looks shaky....

Graywulf, for the Gen 2 it is really easy to tie bluetooth in for streaming and not to expensive. I have mine hardwired into the fairing and tied in so that it turns on and off with the ignition. I also have a bluetooth remote velcroed to the the bars, under the audio controls, to control the device. Here is a short write up (sorry no pics at the moent) First things first, parts: 1) 12V Bluetooth Adapter...kinda like This, although you can get them with 3.5mm jacks, as well. Otherwise tack on a RCA to 3.5mm adapter... 2) 3.5mm audio splitter (like this) 3) A wireless remote to control the device (optional) [personally, I use this one"]] and keep the phone in my tank bag] 4) Whatever you would like to use to splice in the power (personally, I ended up getting a 'splitter' from M61A1MECH for $10) This is what you do: 1) Split the fairing to gain access 2) Locate the audio cable that leads up the AUX jack next to the cassette deck (you can use this article from the Tech Library, as a reference) 3) Disconnect the line and install the splitter inbetween (much like the previously referenced article) 4) Connect the audio jack from the bluetooth adapter to the other leg of the splitter 5) For Power, tap the 12 Aux power port (located on the left side of the fairing near the bottom, for those that don't know)...this is where I used that splitter from M61A1MECH, as I just had to butt splice the power to the pigtails, disconnect the aux port and install the splitter in-line. 6) Before putting the fairing back together, TEST IT....trust me on this one ...shortly after giving it power (read: turn the key), it should pop up on your bluetooth device to pair to. In my case, I paired both it and the remote to control it. 7) If it works, tie wrap and/or affix it somewhere in the fairing, put everything back together, and enjoy have streaming wireless capabilty... Does a Gen 1 have a audio tie-in that is similar, that could be adapted?

Using your picture as the example, see the attached... With my Royal Star, I could use a turn signal relocator kit, and cut-off the stock signal mounts. No biggie....however, I can't do that on the RSV without a) leaving the stock mounts in place (which would look goofy as hell) or b) removing the mounts, leaving holes in the fender...aesthetically, a no go. Before I decide to try "design" something and get it fabricated to do the job, I wanted to know if anyone else in the 14 years of production on this bike, and the 5 years since, had found a way of doing it. If it could save me a load of work and the headache to go with it, I would defintely lean on that route....I'd be happy with a set of blanks to fill the holes and use a relocator kit; however, that doesn't seem to be the case(although, I am ready to be corrected ). I'll probably have to do this the hard way.

Which I figure is the case....and the lack of response confirmed it, hence my comment Hell, considering half the parts that came out of Baron's and diamond R over the years, you would have figured one of them would have come up with something... Guess I gonna have to come up with a design and find someone with a mill....hell, if I can make it cheap enough, I could make a few and sell off to anyone who want them here...I'm sure there are a few who would like to swap the stock signals out with torpedo/bullet signals

1999 Royal Star Venture [First, purchased in Sep(?) 2007] Yes, I am a kamikaze and learned to ride on this/Still own but going to sell 2006 V-max [second, purchased in somewhere in 2009] ***8 year stretch of not riding*** 1996 Royal Star [3rd, purchased Feb 2017] 2006 Royal Star Venture [4th, Purchased Nov 2017]

The lack of response is deafening.... In the immortal words of Pepé Le Pew, "le sigh"

Ok...I have gone through several searches, and took note on every picture of a RSV I've seen, but I still wanna just get confirmation for piece of mind. Has there never been an adapter made to mount after market signals to our 'stalks'? For example, on my '96 Royal Star, I installed a set of Kuryakyn Torpedo LED RTB Signals (#2507) on the rear because the previous owner(s) busted the right side signal and had some very cheap jerry rigged setup on it. It had the 'mustache' mounts, so I just trimmed the stalks down to the lower mounts (as I needed the mount to support my luggage lack, until I fabricate something down the line) and used plate mount turn signal relocators to mount the new signals. Now while I can do the same type of relocation, it would leave many holes to fill (somehow?!?) and still leaves no solution to swap the fronts. It just seems odd that as many Yamaha's that use these style signals, that no one has made an adpater to screw the after market signals into and then fit into the stalk mounts on the bikes... ...or am I missing something somewhere?

Appreciate the offer, but I believe I got this, now....Picked up that harness from M61A1MECH, and I'll get it hooked up this weekend... ...now here's to hoping the damn thing works *crosses fingers*

Sold... How do we do this?

Yes, an RSV... and your comments concern me, as I have neither of those colors

I'm personally using YouTube TV to handle my local channels and die of the regular cable channels... Is alot cheaper for me and I can watch it damn near anywhere, not just at home (and Roku had a 'channel' for it).... Might be something to look into.

I am hardwiring a Bluetooth adapter in the fairing and needing to tap for switched 12V power. I'm thinking the 12v outlet since it is there and switched. However, I need to know which wire is which. I'm thinking the white w/black store is ground and the green is hot, but need confirmation... Could anyone assist?

Worked like a champ... Cruise is working again. I'll have to take note of that when I swap my wide levers over. Thanks for the assist.....

It may only be a wire antenna, but I've seen some ham's wire antenna go more DX than other people's beams.....just saying

Picked me up a "new to me" '06 Sat... Rode it home from Fort Worth to San Antonio yesterday. Was a really good ride, even if the cruise quit working for me. I think the cancel button is stuck internally in the switch housing, as it worked on the way from the hotel to a Walmart, but then quit after I hit the cancel button afterwards.... Gives me the initial lights, but unresponsive after that (thoughts?)... Now I just need to transfer my old stuff over from my '99... Clearview shield, ISO grips, 4-2-4's, 'my' highway pegs, H3 passing lights, etc... But that pillow top seat is staying.... So much more comfortable than my old one. Sent from my SM-T590 using Tapatalk

KC5VAZ...just a lowly Tech class, although I do need to get off my rump and get my General ticket. With that said, though, I haven't been real active over the last decade or so...always nice to have, JIC...

Well...all I have is a very basic knowledge of the 'mechanics' and little piece of here and there; hence, why I posed the option the the greater masses. While gaining the most efficiency and/or performance would always be a great goal, sometimes there has to be a compromise of ease of use/convenience over max performance. If it was pure performance thing, you would see a helluva lot more flat slides being installed. So, if the performance is relatively close to what a Venture (Gen 1 or 2) puts out, which is considerably more than a standard Royal Star, that's good enough for me....especially if I don't have to do as much carb work. AND...it would make rejetting so much easier Really wish that PKR Customs would have followed through with that dyno run. Then we could have seen the difference and be able to compare with some firmer numbers vs butt dyno.

From my understanding, the longer runners will increase the low end torque. Considering we can't wind these Royal Star engines up as much as the Gen 1&2 Venture builds (due to the spings, lack of a counter balancer, etc), I dunno how much of an effect it would actually have on the top end. What I mean is, right now the Royal Star builds are severely 'choked' because of the 28mm carbs, so performance wise, they are at a severe disadvantage. As pegscraper has pointed out, by swapping out the cams and springs from a Vmax, thus giving it a more agressive cam profile and a set a springs that can keep up without floating a valve, and then swaping the carbs to a 32mm set, he found a ~50% increase in power....and he notedly stated that is the carbs that was the major thing holding these engines back. So, while not particularly thrilled with yanking the enginge to swap in the cams and springs, swap out the carbs are a different story. However, if I am already goingto have a machinist build me a set of adapters and shave the runners, might has well build an intake and simplify the entire intake/fueling system. At least that is my train of thought....

I have been pondering doing a 28mm-32mm carb swap on my '96 RS, and for whatever reason, the thought of doing a single carb setup popped into my head. So, of course, I did a search here and came upon the following thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?124413-A-new-twist-on-the-single-carb-swap&highlight=holley Now while this was based on Gen 1 Ventures, shouldn't it be just a possible to use on our RS's, albeit, maybe with a cleaner install . More importantly, would we get the same'ish performance increase considering, for us, it would be an increase compared to our 28mm carbs. Seems like it would be an easier and cheaper way to get a performance increase and make bike maintenance a little easier... Thoughts?