Flyinfool
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Posts posted by Flyinfool
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I would certinally send that pic and a pic of the receipt and a polite short letter to the manufacturer. "Just to let them know".
In many cases they will send a stack of coupons for freebies to make sure you are not to POed and running to a lawyer.
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The issue with unplugging everything and plugging it back in is that if it was corrosion in a connector you still do not know which one, and that bad connection WILL come visit again someday. There is nothing worse than an intermittent electrical issue that just goes away. If you actually fixed nothing then it is still there waiting to strike. Good luck with your upcoming ride. Pack some wire, misc terminals, crimper and basic hand tools just in case.
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OK I found the threads from when I had my problem.
This is the thread where the issue first started while I was on the road.
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?79093-I-did-not-make-it
This is the thread where I went through everything to find and fix it.
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This engine has now found a new home.
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Someone woke me up...... Patch.
Unfortunately there is no test for the TCI, you just eliminate everything else and then it must be the TCI.
As mentioned above there are a LOT of things that can cause you symptoms, and there is nothing harder than to track down an intermittent issue that only happens while riding. It may take a while, but we will get there.
I am cheap and lazy so I always do more work to positively isolate the problem before I start spending money, So I do the cheap and easy tests first.
My first thoughts as the symptoms are stated.
1. It is having the issues at the end of a long ride.
2. the battery is 9 YEARS OLD.
3. The battery is always on a tender.
Check your charging voltage, If it is a little low the battery could be running down through the ride and is having issues maintaining ignition at the end of the ride.
Load test the battery. Testing the battery is easy, most auto parts houses will load test it for free. Most of them sell enough legit batteries with the free service that they do not need to cheat especially the name brand stores.
Dirty connections can also cause a low charge rate. clean BOTH sides of the connections, also look at the connection between the terminal and where it is crimped onto the wire. You can not get in there to clean it but if you can see corrosion in there it may be time for new wires. Remember all wires have 2 ends, clean both ends. I have seen connections that LOOK clean have a high resistance, so actually clean them whether they look good or not.
You mentioned that the tach drops to zero, the tach is driven from the #2 ignition coil. So if the tach drops to zero you know that #2 is not firing, (or the wire between #2 coil and tach is bad, very very rare. As in I have never heard of it actually happening.)
This should keep you busy for a little while while I look some stuff up from when I had a similar issue.
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Someone has to ask the dumb obvious questions.
1. Is the new battery connected the correct way?
2. Are the terminals CLEAN? Not just look clean but did you actually clean them? Both the battery and the terminal at the end of the cable. I have seen connections that look clean still have high resistance.
3. What did you jump it with?
4. Did you actually connect the jumpers backwards? When you say you "did the unthinkable", what exactly did you do?
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Check the date codes on the tires, just because they are new, does not mean they are new. Same for the new tires you just bought.
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Man I wish I had that kind of talent. I have NO artistic ability. I can make things that will be strong and functional but never pretty. That goes for both wood and metal.
I agree with what has been posted above, learn O/A first, then stick then MIG and finally TIG.
They all have there place as the right one to use for a specific job. I am still waiting for such a deal on a TIG with HF AC for aluminum. Then my collection of welders will be complete. It has been at least 30 years since I used a TIG. It will take some relearning.
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If someone is interested in this I do still have a complete parts engine that would be great for doing the setup and leaving your bike rideable.
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I will update if/when I take more measures.
At the moment spending is forboten till Covid eases up and I can find a job.
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I finally got it back up late last night.
I did a restore to before the last update.
Then I found a description online of the issue and went into the services and had to change 6 services from manual, always on, to automatic, and then make sure that all three of the what to do if it fails were set to "try again". They were all set where after the third fail to "do nothing".
Then I had to manually create a new network certificate for each machine on the network on all of the other machines on the network.
For some reason this changed the computer ti NOT discoverable so I then had to change all of those back to Discoverable. and POOF everything reconnected all by its self. Now if it will just stay that way.
I am going to be implementing some of the ideas above to make it harder for windows to make changes to its self without my permission.
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Next option I use a lot if it breaks off is to lay a nut over the broken bolt and weld it inside the nut. Almost all back out with no resistance while still hot from the weld.
Is there a rubber grommet in the middle of that to melt from the welding heat.
That tab is also connected to a tank of gasoline, heat travels thru steel pretty good........
Sparks around gas always makes me nervous. I have seen what happens when the 2 mix.
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Always try the non destructive methods first.
If you can get at it, try the vice grips first. that is the fastest and easiest method.
Next choice would be a good hex bit in the impact driver.
62 ft lbs is WAY to tight, I am surprised that that much torque did not snap the bolt.
Are you sure it was not supposed to be 62 INCH Lbs?
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skydoc_17 is the guy.
I linked his name so I would think he will pop in to this thread shortly.
Yes there are restrictions before you can get full site access, unfortunately this had to be done due to spammers flooding the site with their garbage.
Welcome to the nut house that we all call home.
I used to make and sell my version of that tool, I do not know if I have any stragglers left, I will look around in case all else falls thru.
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I have been using a home network for a long time and it has been working great. All puters are win 10 Pro laptops and the Server is a desktop
Yesterday none of my computers can access the server.
A couple days ago there was a win update that installed even though I have auto update turned off.
WHen I try to access files on the server, I get a window pops up asking for the network credentials, I enter the correct username and password but it will not accept it. If I reboot the server and all other puters they will all reboot fine and the password works to start each of them. Each puter functions fine by its self, the server can still access the other puters, but non of the other puters can access the server as it will not accept its username and password.
I have done a lot of searching online for a solution but nothing I found seems to work.
Everything online says to check the stetting to make sure that the "Make this computer discoverable" button is on, Since the update that button is GONE.
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I think it was in Japan that they were using Gold Wings to tow disabled cars off the freeway. The wing was much better at getting thru stopped traffic than a tow truck.
So even a Harley should be able to pull a couple jet skies
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Of course 2nd gens are a lot easier to pick up than the 1st gen. Often a 2nd gen will only go half way down and rest on the crash bars. A 1st gen alwaus goes all the way down flat on the ground when it decides to take a nap. Don't know what a 3rd gen is like to pick up, Have not heard of one taking a nap yet.
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Glad you did not receive any damage. What is really embarrassing is dropping your RSV at the stop sign at the end of your street and your 5'5" 120 pound neighbor comes over and puts the bike back up like it was nothing.
Picking up a bike is more technique than strength. Just like getting it on the center stand.
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I have wired in a digital volt meter on ALL of my vehicles. if the charging system dies it will give you nearly an hour warning.
A good battery should read 12.6 before you start and charge should be real close to 14V when at cruising RPM of 1500 +.
As mentioned if you are getting weird readings from your meter check your car battery should be the same numbers.
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A 98 with a door ding is likely to be totaled by the insurance company. But then on the other hand it may have really been totaled and patched up to look good in the pics.
That close to the ocean it could have been underwater from one of the hurricanes.
As long as you get clear evidence of why the title is branded it may be worthwhile.
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Hey, the Sturgis rally starts today! How fast can you get there?
This is a Harley, and you ask about fast........
I know, back to my corner of the penalty box.......
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For CCW it has to be my Ruger LCP in .380. For open carry it is usually my all Titanium Taurus .357 MAG, 7 shot (just in case someone was counting up to 6) revolver. In certain circumstances I used to carry my Desert Eagle in 50AE. There are a bunch of deer that did not like that Desert Eagle.
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Yup, I checked every folder many times and received nothing. Anyway, now it is listed on ebay and 14 people are watching it. One nice aspect of this mill is that it can be disassembled into components which are easily moved, loaded into a car, setup down in the basement, etc. And yet it is very solid and can be used to make precision parts.
zag
I posted a link to your Ebay add on HM. It has a bunch of views there to.
Is TCI going bad?
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
All of your readings are a bit high.
Try measuring at the coil to see if you get the same readings. If you get a lower reading it would indicate that you have high resistance in the wires.
Do you have any resistors around to verify that your HF meter is at least reading in the ball park?
When you put the probes together what does the meter show? Whatever the meter shows is the resistance of the probes. This number must be subtracted from all measurements. For low readings like the ignition coils this little bit matters.