cruiserlover

I am writing that number down rick.Thanks.I need to come next wednesday or thursday in the morning hours before noon to redo my seat or whenever you might be available to guide me through it.The stock seat has been cut down before me, very painful to ride.

well,yeah usually.But usually some idiot doesnt leave his jack under the frame enabling the bike to fall fully against the plastic.

ha ha ha.I didnt realize they did that.

I have been riding since 1972.I did the dumbest stupidest thing I have ever done on a bike yesterday.Incredibly dumb.I needed to change the fluid in the clutch system.I cant do this alone.My wife was sleeping, I didnt want to bother her.I blotted out the old fluid in the mastercylinder,refilled it.The lever was totally weak.I need someone to pump the lever while I bled it, wasnt going to happen, I wanted to ride really bad.I madly got off the bike, was going to storm inside, drink something cold, as I got off BAM! I forgot to put the kickstand down! Unbelieveable.When I got the bike the saddlebags were shattered bad near the bottom and back, probably from dropping the bike by the previous owner.I have been piecing that together slowly.But my fairing and the rest of the bike had very minimal scratches for an 01 with 87,000 miles.Now I have deep gouges in the fairing all the way to the black abs, various scrapes.I need to fix all these places then paint the bike.I have never painted before.As far as the gouges I have heard dont use auto bondo, it wouldnt do well with abs.I read permatex had a malleable epoxy putty that could be used in these cases.Color rite has a 3 step system to match the red paint.It actually looks more burgundy than red.I have read someone could mix up a one step topcoat that would closely match the original paint.I can imagine removing the fairing, fenders,would be real hard.I would have to buy a paint gun,read up on how to use it, then give it a go.I do not want to spend $2,000-$3000 for paint jobs on a bike I got for $3300.Plus I cant afford it anyway.It makes me sick how dumb I was.Ya'll dont have to agree with me on that point.Input appreciated.

hanks guys.I appreciate the help.

I know about the bleeders devices.I might buy one.But I kinda enjoy doing things the older way.Up to a point.I found out the hard way on another bike with hydraulics dont let the master cylinder run dry.It takes forever to get all the air out.That would be a perfect time for the pumper.

I see the rubber boot, I see the 8 mm hex of the bleeder screw.And I know about putting rubber tubing over the weep hole and putting it into a container with brake fluid in it.But that is a tight little space.Is there room to press the tubing over the hole and get a wrench over the hex? And the tubing would press down over the bleeder hole right? My wife has different sizes of aquarium tubing I think would work.My fluid is real dirty and must have some air in the line because it gets hard to shift and now wants to lurch forward when I go from neutral to first.Therefore dying.I read here that happens with old dirty fluid and air bubbles. I could just let the fluid run onto the pavement, I do not see any painted surfaces near to ruin with fluid.

let me explain.I googled 2016 fulldress yamaha touring bike.A link came up, said 2016 fulldress yamaha touring bike.specs,engine size,etc.I clicked on it, got about 5 popups, it never went to the site.When I entered 2015 the youtube above came up.It looks like a regular venture to me.So if you ever get the other link to work, please post it here, or under the third generation section please.

I want to delete this.

I talked to him recently.He has a website.There are probably threads here talking about it.he has pictures showing how he does it.Right now he has a broken collarbone and can not do the work himself.

This great information, thanks to one and all.I was on venturers.org for years when I owned the 83.Those bikes are old enough to deservedly have developed some problems.But I found out on that site, even as good as it is, that if you asked a question like why is my bike doing this, some would have you completely dissassembling the bike to do what they think was wrong.I found most of the problems on that bike could be easily solved,way short of dismantling things the majority of the time.Except second gear.I am never going to tackle a job that big.I need to explore our site here more.Once again, thanks so much for the information.

oooh,that's low.

stealth that is great information.I appreciate it.

thanks my friend.

18? I must ask, why so many, you can only ride one at a time.

I have so many threads started here in different sections, and on another suzuki forum I got in trouble from admin.So I combined things.I got new tires on my 2001 rsv right after I got it.barely made it home 51 miles the tires were so slick and squared off.The dealer set matches in design,bridgestone.But their front was 10mm wider than stock, and the rear was 10 mm not as tall as stock.They fit fine,the bike handles ok to me.But will this effect final drive ratio,handling,mph and mpg? 2.I dont know where the tool kit is supposed to be stored, looks like my clymers has it behind a sidecover that is held on by allen bolts.That surely isnt right.This my 16th bike, and I always make my own tool kit since factory is not good enough.Do you guys carry an air guage.Or do you run zero pressure in the forks and rear suspension unless loaded and riding 2 up? 3.What size allen wrenches are the ones most likely to be needed.I am averaging 36-38 mpg combined city and highway.About what you get? 4.Do you change air filter elements regularly or just blow them out with compressed air? 5.Dealers here wont work on a bike over 10 years old and the one independent shop closed.I live in denton texas(near dallas and fort worth).Know anyone in this area that does work I might need? 6.Thanks for any input.

I have owned 2 83's and now an 01 rsv.My impressions are the second gen bike handles just fine in town as long as you dont have to stop.Its a bear at low speeds,like less than 5 mph.I try to avoid rush hour.Both bikes are top heavy, feel about the same to me.I think my first gen with only 38,000 miles on it handled better than my second gen, but its got 87,000 miles,probably due spring upgrade.I do feel 5th gear is like an overdrive.But both bikes have so much torque.On both bikes there is a long ramp pulling onto the interstate where I live.Both bikes I have reached down countless times to shift into 5th only to find it there already.My second gen has cruise control.Number one improvement for me.I think the powerbands feel the same.On both bikes I had to shift down to second gear going around a corner in the heighborhood.Its bad to lug any bike in my opinion.The first gen seat is 10 times more comfortable.If I was going to buy another venture it would be one that doesnt exist with all the features we have written about here on other threads.As far as handling and overall comfort , first gen wins on handling and comfort, but ah that cruise control.Plus the first gen styling is very old looking,not appealing to me.

Thanks a lot.I'll give it a go.

I will

their chiefs do,the vintage does, but this one is like a streetglide look.hardbags,fairing,radio,

I dont know how much is allowable to post here. I live in denton texas.Our brand new Indian dealership is open, although its a soft opening.I told them I ride a Venture.He said sit on that roadmaster.It basically is a venture without a tour pack.It pulledup off the sidestand like it was my old vulcan 900.It weighs almost 900 pounds.Amazing.I love my venture,but if I get the money I know what my next bike is going to be.I have a thread here lightweight touring bike.How about a light feeling touring bike? My wife already said no.

My clymers shows removing the very large nut, then the basket,etc.Why cant you just remove the nut, stack on the new plates, then put the nut back on.There is a plunger, steel ball, a metal spring that one end goes into a hole,etc.Is all that necessary? I know how to immobilize the basket to get the nut off.

thanks bongo and djh3

yep its coke colored.I will drain and fill.I know it can take forever to get air out though.I dread it.Yes, I do intend keeping the bike.Good source for one of those bleeders?

Ive only owned the bike for about 3 weeks.You could tell it was ridden, but probably not properly maintained.The kid I got it from was riding it on tires so bald its a wonder they didnt blow out.It handled like a brick when I rode it home.I replaced tires immediately.According to my clymers my bike crreping, wanting to move forward when stopped with the clutch lever is pulled in is called creeping.It says most likely warped clutch plates.I had a hard time gettinghome today.I could only get into 4th and 5th with some hard pushing on the shifter.And downshifting all the way to firs was hard to do.I got home, found the master cylinder almost dry.With no history of the bike I changed the oil and filter.It did much better after this.Still some pretty difficult shifts at certain speeds,nothing constant.I have a friend that could help me replace the clutch, but if i have to remove the engine and replace some bearings or shafts or gears on the transmission no way can I do that.It doesnt slip.I can get up to 100 mph and it never revs up and not accelerate.Input appreciated.It has 87,000 miles on it. I dont know how to go up and fix my title on this thread.Replace,not ace.