garyS-NJ

carb 2 diaphragm could be turned but carb 3 diaphragm rotates freely with respect to the slider as well as the inner and outer plastic washers. The center metal sleeve is secure within the plastic slider. from the looks of things, it appears that the original diaphragm assembly has it pinched between the plastic washers which are captured between the slider and the center metal sleeve. The manual shows the slider and diaphragm as an assembly. I'm tempted to clean and dry if and then locate the diaphragm tab with respect to the slider and then put some sort of adhesive between the diaphragm and the slider and metal sleeve and tap the thing back together.. It does appear on this loose one that the metal sleeve is not fully seated in the plastic slider..

taking my carbs apart to clean the bowls and pilot circuit. I have at least one diaphragm that will rotate on the slider. I read somewhere that a dab of silicone will cure this but just read from a diaphragm seller that super glue should be used. Anyone try something that worked. what glue and where and how?.. BTW, the center plastic screws are tight. I also read somewhere that the diaphragm is anchored to the needle which is keyed to the slider.. but I haven't tried to take the needles out the slider. to secure one of the really freely rotating diaphragms, I held the slider and tapped the center of the slider with a hammer so as to sock the plastic ring up against the diaphragm.. not sure if it held.

thanks again all/ I ordered a used vmax starter from ebay 4NK-81890-00-00 for xvz12 royal star 2000-2013. and will find a brush set if the brushes aren't huge/ , Probably do the end plate grounding and beef up the battery cables too so I'll be done with it. And pulled the carbs tonight but like an idiot I'm struggling to remove the throttle cables.

is this the link about starter mods and some ancillary on which starters have 4 brush?? still a tad messy on partnumbers: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?46806-First-Gen-Starter-Ground-Upgrade&highlight=starter+upgrade

seems the mitsuba SM13 is the basic motor but they fit various bikes and so have various end caps. would be just fine to Frankenstein my starter with something else and a new set of brushes. can anyone help with that starter link?

thanks Blue sky. I figured there would be tons on starters but I didn't find the thread.

I just looked up a'99 xvz13 and it had 4nk-81800-00-00. I thought all the 81800 were 2 brush and the 81890 was the 4 brush. Found a 26H-81890-00-00 starter on ebay but the seller lists as fitting the XVZ12 & 13. can anyone help with the part numbers?

thanks all. I PM'ed skydoc 17. I just found a used xvz13 starter on ebay for $70 and I guess that's about as good as it will get huh??

I'll be ordering parts to rebuild my carbs soon and also since my '84 XVZ12 seems to crank really slow when it's hot, I figured I would bite the bullet on the starter. I had hoped to find an ebay starter for $60 and refurb it with a new Chinese brush set. but the cheapest I'm finding on ebay is $120 for a used second gen starter or a little less for a 2nd gen chinese starter. Then I think a 4 brush starter from Ricks is about $200. I have no problem cleaning out a used starter and replacing brushes.. I want the 4 brush starter and will upgrade to heavy wiring while I'm at it. what's recommended?? I think I want the Yamaha P/N 4NK-81890-00-00 (that's a 2000 Venture starter P/N). can anyone supply a link or list to alternative starters (other bike starters that will drop right in)??? I know the VMAX starter will work from years___???____) or the Mitsuba P/N for the correct 4 brush starter? this should be old hat on this forum.

yes, that was the plan but I never used marvel mystery oil (too mysterious). I figured seafoam would dilute the oil and perhaps act like an engine flush otherwise just work with the oil to loosen things up. maybe the #1 ring grooves are crudded up and the rings aren't rocking to keep good compression.

still fiddling with my reborn '84 XVZ12. purchased with seized motor and got that free and idling but she wont rev. Yes, I'm sure it's carbs but I did the pea shooter and shotgun and also soaked and ran with strong seafoam/fuel mix... (and cleaned up/checked the sliders). So I just did leakdown and compression tests with the following results: #1 20% leak and 175 psi #3 3% leak and 210 psi #2 3% leak and 190 psi #4 10% leak and 190 psi all the leak seemed to be through the rings (exiting the crank timing inspection hole) and I'm generally happy with the results but would have wanted #1 a little closer.. maybe after she gets to running good things will even out a little.. She actually ran worse with the strong seafoam soak and then weaker seafoam mix for running but I'll run her with straight gas as a final check. THEN CARB TIME OH BOY (I'm a little nervous first time in these carbs). oddball thing tho under the left side cover when cranking, the motor was dripping oil past the crank nut. I see there is an o-ring there but is that supposed to bathe in oil?

what was it??

thanks great white. I'll just watch them to see if any more come apart. like that. and yes when I got the bike after sitting for a while, the sliders were sticky to stuck. I PB Blasted them out and polished the slides and bores with a plastic scouring pad (with PB blast) and wiped and lubed and assembled but they still were all a tad sticky (some more than another) and so I tried electrical contact cleaner and silicone lube and finally seafoam. seafoam got them nice.

one of my sliders wasn't fluttering and I took it out and found the diaphragm rotating with respect to the slider.. and I could see a gap somewhere between the inner and outer slider pieces (I compared to another slider assy). so I aligned the diaphragm and then then held the slider and tapped the inside of the slider metal part so as to hammer the pieces together and pinch the plastic washers to the slider.. it worked but somewhere I read of a fix to use RTV to secure things but the post didn't say how to use the RTV. are these parts press fit?? how do we make them godly.

I want to do a leakdown test and may well be doing a valve lash check at some point soon... I know there's a crank mark for TDC on #1 cylinder but how can I locate TDC on the other cylinders?? I'm sure there is a sequence rotating crank from #1 TDC.. I looked through my soft copy manual (time to buy hard copy!) under engine maintenance valve adjustments and that page 2-5 has a black bar on the side obscuring some of the page. I see there is flywheel marks for # 1 and #2 TDC, but is there also marks for #3 and #4 ? and then what is the firing order and can anyone point me to a link to clarify that funky table on the bottom of the page which appears to give all the TDC. the left side is obscured but does that show a firing order #1 #3 #2 #4 ? So, yes, if there's a helpful link so that I understand the manual steps clearly.. thanks!

I read through your post because my bike doing similar.. from what I see in your post it looks like reseating the carb set cured your problem (you had an intake leak making you run way lean). for future reference, you can check for that with a bottle of propane and a hose to direct the propane gas at all connections. And I'd think with an intake leak making it run lean, it would then run better with choke but not sure if that would top out the RPM.. My bike which I bought seized after sitting for a while is idling but wont rev past 3500Rpm without popping out the carb throats and PAJ1 (and I think the main jet bleeds) and it bogs here too. I'm not through it yet (trying everything before pulling the carb set) but I did have problem with my sliders. they weren't sliding some were stuck.. I cleaned and lubricated the bores and that freed them up but they still were'n't snapping back the same and then used seafoam to lubricate and that got them all fluttering nice but one wasn't fluttering and I found the diaphragm would rotate on the slider.. I had read a post somewhere if that happens you can bond the diaphrams to sliders with RTV but I didn't see how to do it.. I could see that there was a gap where the diaphragm should be pinched between the plastic washers so I held the slide in my fist (first aligned the diaphragm) and tapped the center metal with a hammer to press it all together. hey members! are the sliders and diaphrams just pressed together>? this anchored the diaphragm and got ther slider fluttering while running.. (but I'm still not getting past 3500r's)..

I'll probably do the chem dip and maybe as you suggest heat the simple green. I'm sure the carbs will clean out fine. as for the sniff, somewhere I learned that rather then sniff, it's better to fan some fumes your way for a wiff. I know it's not good but can't compare to working in a lab or a shop. And Yea Steve, I love TSP.

I love carb soak discussions. funny how women talk about dresses and men talk about carb soak. At my old shop we had a 5 gal pail of carb soak and my boss didn't even know what it was. but it worked. I tried not to breath too much of it but couldn't resist taking a sniff and it wasn't very volatile - so what solvents? I worked with a lot of different solvents over the years in a materials lab and watched them all get gone because they were so bad for people and the environment (but dam did they remove oils and silicone. I don't think my can of Chem-Dip works as good as the unknown stuff we had in the shop.. and these guys say it's lost it's kahunas (http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1309369_Berrymanandapos_s_andamp_quot_chem_dipandamp_quot__carburetor_cleaner_is_worthless_.html) and I thought Simple Green used Lime Oil but this article says it got a nasty chemical (http://www.greenmedinfo.com/blog/simply-green-washing-are-you-using-toxic-cleaner). I'd use it but avoid drinking too much.. maybe wear gloves. I know I wouldn't soak aluminum for too long in it.. (or the chem dip). seems it wont really attack rubber and plastic this guy like PineSol. I love Pinesol for mopping my common areas but maybe I'll soak the carbs as a set or two half sets (as long as I can spray all the orifices). hard to believe it doesn't attack rubber or plastic.. ( http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117). I'd replace all the rubber anyway. take a closer look/think when I get the carbs off/. good news is I got the XJ 550 running yesterday after a carb rebuild/rejet and some ignition work. So less pressure getting the Venture on the road (although I insured it yesterday!). The bigger jets really lit up the XJ under hard throttle but not so smooth in the midrange transition. I don't think she was ever that comfortable with pods and open pipes.

The simple green was to prep plastic for paint?

Nice on the simple green. I put that **** on everything. I usually spray carb cleaner on them till I'm high. Then blow, dissaasy, & chem soak, then wash, blow, spray,; blow, assy

I have a can of Chem dip. Would love an ultrasonic. Which one did you buy? We had a heated one in my old shop but we also used dip.

Sounds like the carbs gotta come off. Idles nice but still won't Rev past 3k

Oh yes. If the carbs come off I'll soak through the runners.. pb blast? Ever hear of Evaporust? I used both in the jugs soak to break the rings free

thanks Steve - I could see how filling cylinders with deep creep and kerosene could free up rings and clean up cylinder walls. but I don't see that getting to valve seats or much even to the guides until the engine is cranked on the starter for a while.. (would have to add stuff to the crankcase or let it drain past the rings). back in the day I used kerosene (before they sold motor flush) in the crankcase with oil to clear oil passages and especially hydraulic lifters (actually CRC used to make Valve medic for that and it was probably pretty much kerosene). I did this to a few of my old POS cars. and I would run a little bit and then change oil a couple of times and then spark plugs. I guess adding it to the crank of my bike and then periodically cranking it over would allow it to drain through the guides to the low side of any valve seats.. but I'd did a few different cyclinder soaks and have it running now so I think I'm to the point of running it with crankcase additives and fuel additives and then rebuilding the carbs if necessary. I was thinking perhaps the valves are just worn into the seats and so valves need to be re-shimed... but it's not popping at all out the exhaust so why would just the intakes be so bad? I'm thinking the carb is just running too lean so I get the popping out the intake only. fingers crossed.

steve - good points on intake valves.. where did you describe the soak? I was figuring maybe the valves and guides schootched up as well as the seat area and hoping running with fresh oil and some sea foam (and the other zinc stuff I added, might loosen it up. yesterday with new plugs and work/running to date she was idling off choke and reved to 3500. sounding better and I'm getting my other bike together so I'm being patient with the XVZ12.