H2O

Having trouble with my '88 again. This time I am out of patience and time so I took it to a local, reputable shop that services older bikes. As I suspected, the carbs are worn out and in need of rebuilding. They're telling me the parts are about $800.00. I realize they're operating a business and I don't want to seem cheap, but does that sound within reason? They said the labor will be $350.00. Sounds backwards to me. Any advice? Thanks

Neil, I checked the original plug wires with a meter and they're showing to be good, and almost 0 ohms resistance and appeared to be in good condition so I put them back on. Engine is still the same. Will start, idles at around 5-6 hundred rpm. Dies when I attempt to give it gas. Removed air box to gain access to TCI and fuel line. Removed fuel line at carbs and found fuel is flowing good from pump. I can see and access the TCI unit now really easy. I tested the modular 6 & 8 pin plugs going FROM the TCI again and as before the coils all show good. Is there any way to test the pins on the TCI directly with an ohm meter?

Okay, I already replaced the original plug wires with generic automotive resistive style wires after I went through the fuel system, but before I put the bike back together. Now, after checking the ignition system out again I'm starting to wonder if I should've tried it out with the original plug wires before changing them out? I just figured they were due and I did it before I saw what flushing the fuel system out and fresh fuel did. Crap! Thanks for your assistance. I'll pick up a good low resistive set of wires tomorrow and change them out while I've got it all apart again and see how that works.

Like Accel or other high-performance companies?

Okay, got it. I have access to high voltage copper wiring used in the electrical industry. It's rated 15KV AC, but has no shield whatsoever and is about the same diameter (7mm) 14 gauge AWG. What do you recommend?

I wonder what's considered low resistance? I took a set of regular automotive plug wires, cut the factory ends off and used them with the original plug caps. Not good? lol

I did not pull the covers yet. I found the leads coming from the pickup coils (5 wire connector) and according to the service manual's instructions, they checked within parameters, as did the ignition coils on the left side. While I had the yellow modular plugs at the ignition coils apart (left side) I tested for the other end of the plug that I assume comes from the TCI. Each plug has two wires. One is showing over 1 meg, and the other I can't get any reading like it's totally open. Does that mean anything?

Lol! Okay. Thanks! I swear the service manual I'm looking at for the XVZ1300 states "Right side" for the two pick up coils. Glad I asked before proceeding!

Okay, I read (in the service manual) that the pickup coils are behind the crankshaft cover on the right side. I removed the large cover right next to the rear brake pedal and I'm seeing what looks like a large flywheel, but no coils. Is there more to disassemble here or have I opened the wrong cover? lol The pics I'm seeing on line are really dark and just about useless.

Okay, I found a service manual on line. I'll start there and see what develops. Thanks!!

Okay. I know what and where the TCI is. Are the "timing pick up coils" the same 4 coils that the plug wires originate from below the battery?

The problem has resurfaced. Haven't been able to put but 4 miles since the last go around, but it's doing the same thing again. I've cleared the fuel issue. Drained tank completely. Replaced fuel pump & filter. Checked fuel pump and it has strong flow. Carbs are getting fuel. I'm not sure it was ever the fuel. At this point, I'm not sure of anything. The exact same symptom has returned. Now I can only get the engine to idle, and that's around 600-700 rpm. Dies when I try to revv. Pulled all the plugs and left them hanging by the (new) plugwires. Seeing strong spark on the two right side plugs. Seeing weak and sometimes no spark on the left side plugs..........both of them. I do have a Fluke multi-meter and can follow procedure for testing the coils, but has anyone ran into this kind of symptom before? Thanks! At least I'm getting real good at removing and re-installing all the fairing parts and electronics! lol

You are a persistent one!! I did, and not just because you insisted, but equally because of Murphy's law. Now that I've joined I probably won't have any more issues!! lol Seriously............. Thank you. I appreciate it!

Ignition system checked out okay, but I opened, visually inspected and cleaned every modular plug connection I could find. Removed the fuel pump and filter and drained out all the fuel completely. Then flushed it out with new fuel before putting the filter and pump back on. Poured a little Seafoam down the throats last night. Replaced all 4 plug wires. Removed and cleaned the plugs I put in last week. I reconnected most of the wiring connections except for the non-critical stuff like the lighting etc. Put new fuel in the tank. The bike took two hits on the starter button and it started. I let it run for about 10-15 seconds. It felt sluggish and I shut it off. Checked for leaks and started it again. This time I used the choke. It started right up and didn't miss or pop. I turned the choke off and let it run for about 3 minutes then shut it off again. Tachometer seems steady and it's idling around 950-1000 rpm like it always has. I started putting it back together but ran out of time so I couldn't take it out for a spin yet. I don't know if any single item was the issue, and I was too impatient to take the time to put it back together after each item check to see if that did it, but it those things probably needed to be gone through anyway like you said. I have an old mercury filled synchronizing gauge but I haven't used it in over 15 years, but I still have the instruction sheet! I'm going to try it like it is right now because it ran so well last week after putting the new plugs in. Maybe the bad fuel just fouled them out after a few miles. The funny thing is the ignition system tested out good, but I had myself convinced I had an ignition issue. Okay, Okay, I'll get signed up for a membership this weekend. This site has some great experience and advice. I couldn't have located half of those items on the bike much less known what to do with them without guidance. Thanks for being so gracious with your experience and advice!! Sincerely, Christopher

Since I've taken the bike apart, I've checked almost all of the major electrical connections and terminations, but I did not check the kill switch contacts. So far the electrical system/ignition system is checking out to be in good condition, and I'll check the kill switch today. I am planning on spending today flushing the fuel system and replacing the plug wires. New fuel filter installed last week. I actually have a carb sync from way back. What about the plug wires? Can I buy a generic automotive set locally today or will I have to order an original replacement set? I thought this would be a quick "seek & fix", and it might have been had I posted questions before I tore into it! I'm leaning towards the fuel now. I winterized the bike last November with a full tank and Stabil. Fogged the carbs. I didn't start it until this spring, and then didn't put but about 20 miles on it all summer, although I started the bike a couple of times a week, planning on riding extensively this fall. Now I'm down to around a quarter tank of the same fuel from last November. Anyway, I'm very impressed, and grateful for the help and experienced advice found here!

Okay, I've got it. The instruction sheet I printed starts from testing the black wire from the battery to the frame. The next step simply states go to each of the wires listed on the 6-pin connector one at a time and didn't clarify how to do that with two test leads from the meter, or if the test lead at the battery should be disconnected at that time. Anyway, thank you for the clarification. I really appreciate it!!

Okay, I've gotten to this point. Pulled the two connectors from the TCI. Printed out test procedure from a previous thread which says to start with the 6-pin connector. Measure the Orn, Gry, Wht/Rd and Wht/grn wires one at a time, which are pickup coil inputs. Should see 115-125 ohms. I'm assuming this means each of those pins to ground, not to each other. When I meter them each to ground I cannot get any continuity. When I go from pin to pin (the 4 listed above) I get around 215 ohms in any combination. The instruction states that if you don't have this continuity at each pin then you probably have corrosion/failure at a white connector above the stator and they advise to disconnect, clean and test again. I'm assuming the stator is on the left side, but I ended up taking every white connector apart, cleaned and installed some electrical joint compound off my service truck to inhibit corrosion. Tested again and I'm still not seeing continuity from these pins to the black grounding wire at the battery. The battery is removed by the way, as well as the headlight assembly and several other miscellaneous connections in the process of taking the fairing and side covers off. Also, I went forward and checked the 8-pin connector as listed and it appears to be normal. I forgot to mention,,,, I did check the black ground lead after lifting the battery. It is good and has almost zero resistance to the frame. This is what I'm using as my ground reference. What am I doing wrong??

Okay, Thank you for your time and great advice!

Well, I guess the fuel lines could be clogged, but I wouldn't have thought of it. The fuel filter appeared clean visually, but I didn't change it because it simply ran fantastic when I put the new plugs in. I occasionally use seafoam in the tank just for insurance. Now that I've got the bike all apart, do you think I'd be wasting my time testing the coils and TCI with an ohm meter? P.S. And yes, I should've joined years ago when I first found this site, but this bike has been just sooo reliable that I didn't think I would ever be here needing help!! Thank you for the advice and I will join right away!!

No, The tach is smooth and steady. I watched for that. Thanks for informing me where the TCI is.

1988 XVZ1300 with 65K mi. Sat most of the summer, but started it about twice a week. Started to ride recently. Engine started to "pop" and seem like it wasn't hitting on all 4 until it warmed up. Steadily got worse until one day it just wouldn't start. Acted like it wasn't getting fuel, and it wasn't. Found fuel pump was not working and replaced it. Started up good afterwards but would not run without missing, coughing or popping. Changed plugs. Plugs had really carboned up. Put the new plugs in and it ran like it was new! Wow! Ran about 25 miles. Came home and parked it overnight. Next morning started it and it went back to coughing and popping all the way to work on a cool morning around 58 deg.F. It was like I hadn't done a thing to it. Always parked inside. Always run 89 or higher octane fuel. Love my VR. I've owned it for over 4 years and it's never failed me until this issue. Can I purchase a generic plug wire kit and make it fit? I've found & printed out other discussions on how to use a meter and test the coils and TCI circuit. I have removed the fairing, the headlight, the battery, the side covers, the radio/tape deck. I can see the coils. Where is this TCI thing and how do I remove the seat?? lol I'm starting to wonder if I should've taken it to a shop!! Help Please!!