TheCoffsKid

they are very cool, and if I was building my own bike I would use something like that or something similar. there is a lot of cool looking stuff out there. I have purchased another instrument cluster housing so I can continue my challenge. probably won't arrive until new year, but progress is being made....slowly Cheers,

me too!!

winter???

I took off the RSTD instrument cluster (meter) and there isn't that much room , what with the handlebars and wiring looms. So it will be out with the playdough and remount the cluster, then pull it off and see how much room there is and where. Question without notice:- As I will only need 4 wires of the M109R tacho, can I get rid of the printed circuit board? Cheers,

Hi, The next challenge for me will be to mount a tacho on my 2006 tour Deluxe. Since the speedo is very art-deco in style I want to attempt to keep that style, and I will be using a Suzuki M109R tacho. See excel attachment. The first job will be to remove the parts labelled "A" and "B". Then I will remove the cowl from the RSTD speedo, and if the schematics on the parts CD are correct, most of the space underneath will be unused. If this is correct then I won't have to modify the Suzuki tacho any more except to remove the wires that I don't need. I will then, very, very, very carefully cut an opening in the top of the RSTD speedo and mount the Suzuki into the gap. Then it will just a matter of securing one to the other, and wire everything up. Every time I do something I will take photos and post. Cheers,

Hi, Yes it looks like they are not the same as the US models; whether the bike came like that or they were swapped out, I don't know. Previous owner said that he hadn't changed anything on the bike. I would have to drill 2 holes in the muffler and somehow fix the nuts inside the new tips then bolt it up; might look a bit crappy as either way one bolt head would be visible; might look for some dress up titanium ones. An alternative might be some muffler glue, run the moter to make it go off, then drill the holes, tap a thread then bolts in.....hmmmmmm Thanks for the reply. Cheers,

On the partzilla webite the partnumber is STR-10693-50-01 and shows 2 bolts attaching the tips to the inside of the muffler horizontally. The parts sent to me from partzilla with the same part number on the box have 2 pairs of 2 bolt holes which attach the tip to the muffler vertically. My problem with this option is that I will have to remove part "A" as shown in my attachment. cheers,

CrazyGaucho, On my pipes there is this Yamaha 5JC-2 with E13 Could you provide a photo of the end of the muffler on your bike so I can see if its the same as mine cheers,

hi, Thought I'd jump into this conversation. I have purchased a pair of OEM Royal Star exhaust tips from Partzilla.com Attached are two photos; one of the end of the muffler and the other of the tip over the tube exiting from the muffler. All the reviews I have read indicate that to put these tips on a OEM muffler is more or less "plug 'n' play" As can be seen by photo 1 these is a plate labelled "A" that seems to have been pushed in then welded; the weld is above "B" I have used a vernier gauge and it seems the tip would fit into the muffler if the plate wasn't there. See photo 2 to see how far the tip needs to go in. The muffler is marked Yamaha 5JC-2 with E13 in both a rectangle and a circle. I am assuming this is a part original to the bike. I need some help from anyone who has had this situation. Should I remove the weld and then see how far I can push the plate into the muffler? Would I then drill the two holes in the plate and weld two nuts behind the plate for the bolts to locate to. Any help from anyone who has resolved a similar problem will be appreciated. Cheers,

hi, Thought I'd jump into this conversation. I have purchased a pair of OEM Royal Star exhaust tips from Partzilla.com Attached are two photos; one of the end of the muffler and the other of the tip over the tube exiting from the muffler. All the reviews I have read indicate that to put these tips on a OEM muffler is more or less "plug 'n' play" As can be seen by photo 1 these is a plate labelled "A" that seems to have been pushed in then welded; the weld is above "B" I have used a vernier gauge and it seems the tip would fit into the muffler if the plate wasn't there. See photo 2 to see how far the tip needs to go in. The muffler is marked Yamaha 5JC-2 with E13 in both a rectangle and a circle. I am assuming this is a part original to the bike. I need some help from anyone who has had this situation. Should I remove the weld and then see how far I can push the plate into the muffler? Would I then drill the two holes in the plate and weld two nuts behind the plate for the bolts to locate to. Any help from anyone who has resolved a similar problem will be appreciated. Cheers,

Ok, I give up...i'll go to an auto electrician and get them to do it thanks for everyone's help cheers,

Saw a post by Carbon One about how to bypass the ignition, which if I have read it correctly (?) I should be able to use my driving light on high-beam and not overload the ignition switch. I hope. ps carbon, sorry to rain on your parade but the St George Dragons won our premier Rugby league competition in 1956, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65 and 1966. They changed the rules and they finished runner up in 1967.

Ok, so information that I am getting is that I need to create a separate circuit using a relay and inline fuse. No problems with that. 1. Can I bypass the ignition switch all together? 2. Has there ever been a more substantial ignition switch made by a third party or and OEM switch from Yamaha from another model; ie would the Road Star ignition switch plug 'n' play and handle the load? 3.In the diagrams from other members who have added lights it shows the connection to a switch; is this a third party switch or can I use the existing switchgear to provide power and functionality, or do I need to source a new switch. I don't really want to add more "stuff" on the bars if I can avoid it. Cheers,

making your bike lighter will be fun. the old axiom is little bits of weight from lots of places, rather that a lot of weight from one place replace steel with aluminium replace aluminium with titanium just make sure they will take the load. no more than 1 1/2 threads through the nut did it to an old car once.....best performance upgrade I ever did and you can take you time doing it cheers,

Thanks to everyone for their advice. StarFan, if you see a cloud appear on the horizon, it will be me getting it wrong cheers,

Hi, I have mounted the lamps over the indicators, now to the wiring. Is it possible to use an inline fuse that is provided and tap into the high-beam wire without using a relay? Be gentle, I'm new at this. Cheers, gd

Thanks to everyone. The light in this particular tunnel is now considerably brighter. Cheers,

Hi, I was looking at the crash bars on my 2006 RSTD and they don't seem to offer much protection for the rider in the event that the bike ends up on its side. Has anyone any experience with bars that extend out further; both front and rear. I have seen the Lindby Custom Front Linbar on the web. Any assistance much appreciated. Cheers,

I think i'm wrong. having just read the Barons Tach adapter tech explanation it says the adapter is only needed for single fire ingintions. you just saved me $50 cheers,

cheers, Randy has just advised that it is dual pulse, so I need the adapter

cheers, i'll get the adapter

hi, I have a 2006 RSTD and I am putting a M109r tacho on top of the speedo. Is the ignition single or dual pulse. Cheers,

Hi, I am going to attempt to install a Suzuki M109R tacho onto my 2006 RSTD. Has anyone done this what pitfalls await? Cheers,

no I didn't take the camera. I will next time. cheers,

Thanx very much. For me its interesting to go over the trips just to look and the type of roads etc. Cheers,