Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #1 Posted May 21, 2008 Hi All, Just wondering if this is a common problem and/or a difficult one to troubleshoot. I push the on button, all lights come on then after a couple of secs they all go out but the power. This is normal so far but when I engage the set button while riding, nothing!! Any quick fixes? I do have a manual, just hoping it is simple. Thanks in advance, Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spear Posted May 21, 2008 Share #2 Posted May 21, 2008 At what speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #3 Posted May 21, 2008 Any speed!!! does not matter, I have played with the clutch and brakes switches while running, not physically looked at them yet though. I am thinking maybe speed sensor. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted May 21, 2008 Share #4 Posted May 21, 2008 Check for vacume leaks? Vacume line from left front intake boot.and there is a line on the cruise vacume pod, its kinda behind the head light on the right side of fairing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #5 Posted May 21, 2008 I thought there was a vacuum pump vice intake vacuum?? no lights flashing to indicate vacuum pump problem. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endo Posted May 21, 2008 Share #6 Posted May 21, 2008 Ooops double-click double-post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endo Posted May 21, 2008 Share #7 Posted May 21, 2008 On my 1st gen the clutch lever didn't always return fully, causing the system to not want to engage. There is a spring in there that can be stretched out to better force the full lever return. There are also small parts that can drop and roll away if you're not carefull in disassembly. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #8 Posted May 21, 2008 OK, I guess I will pull out the Ohmeter this afternoon. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted May 21, 2008 Share #9 Posted May 21, 2008 Yeah your right it does have a vacume pump, dont know what i was thinking,anyhow it has vacume lines that can crack,thats what happen to mine one time the line on the pod was cracked. In the manuwal there are T/S steps on how to test the cc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted May 21, 2008 Share #10 Posted May 21, 2008 Have you noticed if the self cancelling feature on turn signals still works? Both cruise and it use the same speed sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #11 Posted May 21, 2008 I don't know as I almost always cancel them myself, but I will check it out. Now if a vacuum line was cracked wouldn't it still get a "set" light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted May 21, 2008 Share #12 Posted May 21, 2008 Yes i think you would get a set light, until the speed would drop below the set value, i have also had the clutch handle switch fail on mine, from the handle and pivot being wore out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted May 21, 2008 Share #13 Posted May 21, 2008 I've heard that the most common probelm is the interlock switches. There are 3 - clutch and both brakes. If the system thinks you are activating any of these the speed will not set. Mine works but spontaneously cuts off, like one of those switches intermittently loses contact. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Owl Posted May 21, 2008 Share #14 Posted May 21, 2008 The most common cause of unintended cancellation of the speed control is a malfunction of either the clutch or brake lever switch. Next time you are out, try pushing outward on the levers and keep them from vibrating. It doesn't take much to have the lever touch the switch button and cancel the speed control. Could be as simple as a worn shoulder bolt. I had fringe on my grips, and the buffeting from the fringe at highway speed would cause the switch to cancel the speed control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted May 21, 2008 Share #15 Posted May 21, 2008 I'm having a similar issue. Power on self test is fine. After hitting the "set" speed isn't maintained. If I then use the clutch or brakes the resume light comes on. That tells me the system "thinks" everything is ok and "thinks" the cruise is engaged. It also "knows" to turn on the resume light if I hit a lever that disengages. I'll almost bet I have a problem with the linkage or not having vacuum somewhere. Haven't set aside the time to pull the front end off and chase it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 21, 2008 Share #16 Posted May 21, 2008 OK, I got home this afternoon, and the self canceling of the turn signals works just fine, so I assume the speed sensor is ok. I have tried to engage the cruise while holding the levers outand pushing in on the switch, and still no go. Now a couple of questions, first I have searched all over for the cruise control control unit, and I think I finally found it behind the headlight on the right side above the vacuum pump??? Next question what wires do I put together to by pass the clutch switch? For some reason there are 4 wires going to the switch as follows, 2 black/whites, black/yellow, blue/yellow. The manual is not clear on the colors or where the clutch switch is on the drawing. I am going to bypass the clutch switch first as that seems to be the most troublesome as per the posts. Thanks in advance. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 22, 2008 Share #17 Posted May 22, 2008 OK Anyone out there can tell me what wires to connect to bypass the clutch switch??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted May 22, 2008 Share #18 Posted May 22, 2008 Not offhand, I'd have to examine the diagram. Did you know there's a couple PDF's on the site of the factory service manuals? Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted May 22, 2008 Share #19 Posted May 22, 2008 (edited) There are 2 sets of contacts on the switches of cruise equipped 1st gen Ventures (wiring for 86-93) On the clutch switch, one set is for the starter interlock to allow starting in gear with sidestand up, the other is for the cruise. The brake switches have one set for brake lights, another set for cruise. On the clutch switch, you want to look at the black/white wires. Essentially the power for the switches starts at the rear brake switch, flows to the front brake switch, then the clutch switch, then to "cancel" switch then to the cruise control. So.....this should help track your problem. Check for 12 V at both the 2 black/white wires at clutch switch with key on. If BOTH have 12 V, all 3 switches are closed and satisfied. If only ONE wire has 12 V, the clutch switch is open. If neither wire has 12 V you have a problem with one of the brake switches or wiring. Check and repair those and retest at clutch switch. Keep in mind.....these are normally closed so any wiring break/ bad connection opens the circuit. Edited May 22, 2008 by Neil86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 22, 2008 Share #20 Posted May 22, 2008 Excellent Neil, Thanks alot, I understand fully!!! I'll let you know how it goes, I have the bike all apart now as I am soldering the CMS, and installing a new tall windshield, will put front end back together this afternoon. I do have a factory service manual but the drawings are a bit vague. One more ?? Is the control box for the cruise behind the headlight on the right side? Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted May 22, 2008 Share #21 Posted May 22, 2008 Kim... unfortunately I have an 86 standard...which has no cruise. So I can't help you there except to say...look at the wiring diagram...list the wire colors & number attached to the unit....and go looking. One other thing...I edited my above post....the black/white leaving clutch switch goes to the "cancel" switch then to the cruise. But do the brake/clutch ones first...see if you find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimrpaige Posted May 23, 2008 Share #22 Posted May 23, 2008 I did not get a chance to put it back together yesterday, but I will figure it out one way or another, he he. Now, What indications should I have with the bike idling and the cruise power on and I hit the set button? Will any lights come on or do I have to be going 20 or so mph? Sorry I don't know cause it never worked since I got it I know my Harley won't do anything unless I am going down the road. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighop Posted May 23, 2008 Share #23 Posted May 23, 2008 I had a similar problem... Last year my cruise quit while on an Iron Butt Run...and it was sorely missed...after that it would engage on occasion, but as soon as I hit a bump it would cancel... I have been through the brake switches, vacuum pump, speed sensor, fuses, wiring, cancel switch...every thing except the clutch switch...which I guess I didn't realize was there. I never thought about that one because I would never entertain the notion of pulling my clutch lever in while the cruise is set at 80 mph and end up lunching the engine... However , after reading some posts in the tech talk threads...I found out about the switch on the clutch...I took it apart and cleaned it, and as I reassembled it..I noticed a LOT of play and wobble in the clutch lever itself...I took it back off and checked the bushings and found that it was now egg shaped at best and the bushing that the plunger tip goes into from the master cylinder was worn away by at least 1/3. What had happened was it wore out just enough to keep the dump switch open, and unless I had pushed the lever out to it's furthest point, it wouldn't allow the cruise to activate. I bought a new lever and bushing, and the problem was solved... I suggest that you look at your clutch lever...it shouldn't have a bunch of travel up and down I guess I should mention that this is on a 2nd Gen 1999 RSV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted May 24, 2008 Share #24 Posted May 24, 2008 Actually the bushing problem is pretty common...and the same bushing is used from 83 right thru the new 08's. You have to give the bushing a fingertip dab of grease periodically or else it will wear out fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spear Posted May 24, 2008 Share #25 Posted May 24, 2008 Actually the bushing problem is pretty common...and the same bushing is used from 83 right thru the new 08's. You have to give the bushing a fingertip dab of grease periodically or else it will wear out fast. Thanks Neil. I'll keep THAT one in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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