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V nose trailer


Thistledown

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I am kinda hoping its not too much difference as I just bought a 10x 6 continental cargo flat front last Sat.

 

Of course , just knowing how things usually work for me that there will be a huge difference and the v front will be MUCH cheaper to run.

 

Brian

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I don't know if this will help you out or not, but is my experience with both types. I used to have a flat front, flat roof, single axle 10x6 inclosed trailer then sold it and bought a 14x7 V nosed, rounded roof, double axle. Even with the extra weight of the 14x7,and the extra height, it pulls just about the same. You can tell there is extra weight there, but still pulls the same. As far as mpg, I haven't really checked but I would say it's about the same. Hope that helped you out.

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I notice not to much of a difference between the two , other than there is less bug juice in the V-Nose !

It also depends on what your pulling it with , that will deflect forthcoming wind resistance . I've talked to guys with rear spoilers pulling the wind down in the rear to stir up the vacuum that a flat backed trailer creates and they say the spoilers help pretty good .

 

BEER30

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Read in a motorcycle mag many years ago that bugs don't die on truly aerodynamic stuff!

 

Anyway, when we went from a smaller snub nose 2 horse trailer to a V-nose bigger/taller 2 horse, it towed a Lot easier. Gas mileage may have gone up 1 or 2, but that is hard to tell.

 

Are you talking a motorcycle or car/truck? A LOT depends on how big the unit is to begin with. A v nose on a very short trailer, say below the top of the tow vehicle by 15% or more, probably won't make enough difference to measure with non-scientific tools. Same with a very narrow trailer. But if you haVe a tall trailer with some width, then it will make enough, that if you tow a lot, it might be worth the trouble, or loss of space.

 

Making the tow vehicle and the trailer mesh better as the air flows between the two is worth it too. For example, a bed cover on a pickup is worth it to help keep air from piling up, but a topper is even better. Those really tall wings on the cabs of some pickup trucks are really too far forward to help, but if you move it between the trailer and the cab, say midway in the bed, and place it so the wind just barely gets pushed over the nose of the trailer, then you are doing good.

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I was thinking a 7x12 to haul behind a Ford Explorer, there is several hundred dollars difference in the cost of a v nose

 

Thats the reason I went with the flat front continental cargo, I figured I would have to save one heck of a lot of fuel to make up the difference. I found a 6x10 single axle trailer about 6 months old for about 1500 bucks less than a new v front.

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I went with a v-nose so I could get a shorter trailer - the V gives you some extra space without increasing the length. I use mine as a "garage" for the bike both here in Ontario and down in Texas for the winter - it fits nicely in a parking spot.

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I went with a v-nose so I could get a shorter trailer - the V gives you some extra space without increasing the length. I use mine as a "garage" for the bike both here in Ontario and down in Texas for the winter - it fits nicely in a parking spot.

 

Thats what I was going to do also, as i have been having trubble with kids playing with the bike while its parked. My trailer has barn doors on the back and I am looking for a ramp solution for it that is quick and easy so i can use the trailer as a garage without it being a hassle . I was figuring I need 3 to 4 feel long and a minimum of 3 feet wide so I can put my feet down when backing out.

What kind of doors do you have on your and what ramp solution did you come up with?

 

PS sorry if I hijacked this thread but i was curious about other trailers and how the ramps worked out.

 

Brian

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Hey Brian - mine has a ramp door.

Depending on the distance your back end is off the ground (trailer, that is), a 4 foot ramp would probably do it - and yes, at least 3 feet wide. I know you will love having the bike inside - keeps the dew off, the dust down and keeps little hands from touching!!

 

Eugene

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Thats what I was going to do also, as i have been having trubble with kids playing with the bike while its parked. My trailer has barn doors on the back and I am looking for a ramp solution for it that is quick and easy so i can use the trailer as a garage without it being a hassle . I was figuring I need 3 to 4 feel long and a minimum of 3 feet wide so I can put my feet down when backing out.

What kind of doors do you have on your and what ramp solution did you come up with?

 

PS sorry if I hijacked this thread but i was curious about other trailers and how the ramps worked out.

 

Brian

 

Harbour Frieght sells an aluminum tri fold ramp that weighs about 20lbs. I have one that I used to use with my first trailer. It is very sturdy and is wide enough, when folded out, to have your feet down when loading. I think they cost around $100.

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this is the best trailer for gas mpg i have found , it is a pretty kewl trailer , www.rallytimetrailers.com

we are all M/C riders here at my company and looked around for a year for the best light weight trailers to sell and rent and these are best for buck .

now for the disclaimer , i am not trying to sell or rent these trailer to anybody here , but i have built , sold and owned a lot of trailers and so far i really like these .

Thom:thumbsup:

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Eugene, what size do you think would be the best for the RSV. I would be using it the same as you for storage and travel

 

Hi there - I guess it would depend on what else you'd like to put in there. Mine is a 6 x 10 V-nose and my RSTD fits in very nicely with a bit of room at the back and some room ahead of the wheel chock. I hung a few hooks on the walls for my leathers and keep my cleaning supplies and a small air compressor in the V part ahead of the chock.

 

The bike pretty much fills the trailer but I can still walk around it inside when all the doors are closed. If you have a trailer dealer close by, ask if you can ride the bike in and see what you think....that's what I did and was happy with the size and fit. I also had them install a couple of extra tie-down rings so now I can strap the bike in front, behind and beside if needed.

 

Hope that helps

 

Eugene

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Eugene, what size do you think would be the best for the RSV. I would be using it the same as you for storage and travel

 

ps - further to my earlier post, my trailer is tall so I can stand inside and not hit my head!!

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Guest airman

:snow:Actually, the V nose does nothing for fuel economy. The front of the trailer is actually in the draft of the tow vehicle. Drag is what causes the loss of fuel economy. That is the air molecules passing over the roof floor and side walls create friction, thus drag. I had asked a couple of trailer manufacturers to confirm this. They admitted that they build the V nose for "customer perception". The lowest coefficient of drag award goes to the raindrop. And it gets better with the tail cut off. Take a look at the RallyTime Trailer www.rallytimetrailers.com. This has the lowest coefficient of drag of any trailer and hauls 2 dressers comfortably.

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Guest tx2sturgis

I agree with airman....most of the drag occurs at the BACK of the trailer, not the front...that big square edge at the rear is is very 'dirty' when it comes to airflow...those vortices that it leaves in its wake cause a lot of drag.

 

You never see an airplane with a 'squared off' rear...they always have a smooth tapered contour...to help close the airflow back together.

 

 

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Guest tx2sturgis

That Rally Time trailer is 'cute'...but how do you get the bikes in thru that little hatch in the front???

 

:crackup:

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That Rally Time trailer is 'cute'...but how do you get the bikes in thru that little hatch in the front???

 

:crackup:

 

 

I had to look through several pages and finally found a picture with the back open and top lid lifted. Looks good!

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