Newbie Here. Just picked up a 89 VR 1300 and having some issues

[Patch]

Don't think of you as a knot head Puc, stubborn OH YAH!

 

So to press out some of these wrinkles we created..

 

1)When the air box is open the factory designed tuned flow is (one pulse per intake stroke) is disrupted.

Shell and velocity stacks installed velocity is regained after entering and moving thru the stack. pause and think about this, a Venturi effect causing volume to accelerate, understand the benefits?

Here's the hard part to visualize, the vacuum acting on the slide has lost some potential/effort thru the now open chamber above; so the slide reacts slower causing the upper and lower controls to remain out of sync longer ( throttle plate & slide) causing a stall below the slide. The stall is volume related (slide opening too slow not allowing enough air to pass thru @ velocity) that is the out of balance I refer to.

 

2) Again for the new too, fresh rebuild installed carbs, no shell no stacks, then no throttle just idle.

 

1 will likely respond well enough up to 1/4 twist then stall begins and you need to coax it. Its all fine when you are use to it and understand the condition is, as mentioned.

2 is just checking after rebuild things like flooding and or fuel crossing all 4 throttle plates...

 

You are right Puc with regards to the flooding condition when the throttle plate at WOT with a reduced flow and velocity, all ports become wet regardless of fuel delivery system.

 

two last things, thinking the the CV carb begins and ends with it casting is an incorrect view; it is a system from the intake manifolds to the air box induction port. The induction port is calculated for size - one pulse at a time/one intake stroke at a time regardless of engine speed.

Filling a jug is more challenging then just twisting the throttle, filling it with the correct ratio for efficient heat expansion pressures is a complex sport and, thinking more air in boosts detuned street bikes with the simple addition of a fatter jet to compensate is just marketing BS usually leading to a carbon'ed up mess. (in my opinion)

 

Want to make your bike perform? first know and meet factory standards then...

 

Thanks Buddy you made me dig;)

[Dano]

Which,, if you dont mind a drippy, dirty, oil covered engine, can actually work in your favor cause you never have to change oil,,, you just keep adding it to keep the bottom end full and by the time its oil change time you have already swapped in new oil... I use to tell Tweeks that she had the best of care cause she was under Puc's Perverbial Progressive Oil Change - a REAL advantage if ya dont mind parking on cardboard or cleaning up oil spots on the pavement everywhere ya go

 

dang Puc', I agree wid ya on sumthin' here.....! This is why my '02 Express 1 ton extended van has 350,000 on the original motor, changed the tranny fluid and filter 1nce at 150k, still completely original exhaust, along with the cracked right exhaust manifold (from 12 yrs ago...) between 6&8, I put in 10w40 diesel oil to take the place of the bearing losses thru wear, keeps your oil pressure above 40 till u notice a bit of loss at idle,,,oils gettin' thin. It's gettin' to the point of exasperation on wonderin' when it will expire, runs so da*n good right now it'll surprise ya on rev up speed at about 7500-8k lbs in it...I've had the 60k replacement long block sittin' in the garage for 2 yrs now. If yur prepared, it never happens,,,

 

Takin' bets on whether the engine or cancer on the body will win this one...

 

See, the technical still exists up in my noggin', but gettin' out here with ya'll ain't come back a lot just yet

[Dano]

SteveG, just read your latest. You and I understand the separate components of this designed "self-powered air pump" as to the way it operates which is completely different from your standard carb or jetted "engine" that most understand. I believe this is the first time I've seen it described quite correctly as to the CV thought pattern applied! This ain't no 10k HP fueled rail car designed for maximum air input/output...it's a perty design, just takes a bit of care.

I used to have an '84 that would pull the front wheel up whene'er ya wonted to...plenty of scrapes on the bottom of the pegs. Bein' in my early 50's when I moved to the 2nd gen for some sanity

[cowpuc]

dang Puc', I agree wid ya on sumthin' here.....! This is why my '02 Express 1 ton extended van has 350,000 on the original motor, changed the tranny fluid and filter 1nce at 150k, still completely original exhaust, along with the cracked right exhaust manifold (from 12 yrs ago...) between 6&8, I put in 10w40 diesel oil to take the place of the bearing losses thru wear, keeps your oil pressure above 40 till u notice a bit of loss at idle,,,oils gettin' thin. It's gettin' to the point of exasperation on wonderin' when it will expire, runs so da*n good right now it'll surprise ya on rev up speed at about 7500-8k lbs in it...I've had the 60k replacement long block sittin' in the garage for 2 yrs now. If yur prepared, it never happens,,,

 

Takin' bets on whether the engine or cancer on the body will win this one...

 

See, the technical still exists up in my noggin', but gettin' out here with ya'll ain't come back a lot just yet

 

See,, thats one of the advantages to :Im not listening to:Im not listening to so much like I do,, sooner or later,, everyone will agree with something I say