Patch Posted June 11, 2018 Share #26 Posted June 11, 2018 I found the old post. Looks like I had more than I remembered electrical issues..Hmm Anyways it look the the burnt coil you see in one of the pics controls the brake light.. Still worth a look see.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share #27 Posted June 11, 2018 All my boards appear spotless clean.And what would explain the fact I can plug only the CMS module in and it acts up, OR i can plug only the dash / temp gauge in, and it acts up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 12, 2018 Share #28 Posted June 12, 2018 Well you must have answered the problem through the question. What is the common link? sorry I should know, what year is the bike? And did you put that dash through the dishwasher man? That is the cleanest old dash I have ever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 12, 2018 Share #29 Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) can u give me the voltage reading on both sides of fuse 4 pls. and battery to compare, locking for loss Here is the 83 wiring diagram the brown is of inerest Can you tell us what if anything was damaged after the fall anything at all? http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20TK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Edited June 12, 2018 by Patch diagram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share #30 Posted June 12, 2018 Voltage reading with ignition on, Battery alone, both sides of all fuses, really the same, 12.2 volts, including #4 , the brown line. That's just sitting, not running. Damaged after fall, left rear turn, left fairing a bit. I have dug into those sides extensively, unplugged this and that, especially anything related to 'brown wire', can not make any change in readings. After chasing the schematic, seems brown also connects into rectifier? I don't seem to have charging issues, but I guess I'll go find that and at least inspect plug. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.tyler58 Posted June 12, 2018 Share #31 Posted June 12, 2018 That really sucks about the bike falling off the lift. I know it's been a couple weeks but I have been thinking about you.Voltage reading with ignition on, Battery alone, both sides of all fuses, really the same, 12.2 volts, including #4 , the brown line. That's just sitting, not running. Damaged after fall, left rear turn, left fairing a bit. I have dug into those sides extensively, unplugged this and that, especially anything related to 'brown wire', can not make any change in readings. After chasing the schematic, seems brown also connects into rectifier? I don't seem to have charging issues, but I guess I'll go find that and at least inspect plug. Any other ideas? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 12, 2018 Share #32 Posted June 12, 2018 Yes really is a chase. So you caught on to the brown, I was using my xvz sheets, figured I was off. So my sheets show brown also ties the Eand, so what I would do is check continuity on the wire coming up from the thermo sending switch to the end where it connects to the dash or the to the temp gauge! That should be near 0 accounting for age of wiring. Just rule it out. Thee light of course you know will glow brighter with rpm the gauge is well... The fuel gauge is G/W so again lets isolate that one wire measure end to end. Then we'll see from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share #33 Posted June 12, 2018 Steven: we are on the same page.. Earlier, I found the Temp sending unit, and felt the connection was not on all the way. I pushed it on. I ran bike a while and the Temp gauge did NOT fluctuate with RPM, I may have found it. I want to again get into the gas gauge and move up and down while connected to the CMS, and I will do the continuity check then as well. I went to remove gas gauge and guess who brimmed off their tank? I need to burn a gallon of gas before I can remove my gauge, and rain is nearby. I will hopefully get this done tomorrow and report back. Thanks for helping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 12, 2018 Share #34 Posted June 12, 2018 Nice! Nothing like a checklist when trouble shooting.. Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 12, 2018 Share #35 Posted June 12, 2018 And by the way, we know you're stalling; you are just itchen to ride the flees out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share #36 Posted June 15, 2018 Update: This bike is possessed. I did get the temperature gauge working, was the loose brown wire at the sending unit (so it seems). The Gas gauge is still not correct, but that could be the mechanical slider that needs adjusted, maybe not. I will dig into that soon. My newest issue, after a 80 mile ride, the little notification for 'No Rear running lights' came on, in the cms. Both the 1157 bulbs seem good. I will dig into that. I need to scour the schematic, but first glance, could the that cms could be causing my gas gauge and now 'No rear running lights' issue? Brakes and turn signal lights work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 15, 2018 Share #37 Posted June 15, 2018 So for the gas level: rule in or out using the ohms I gave you above. Divide the coil in half making a mark on the the casing, then set the float contact to the point and measure the ohms top, mid & empty. If its close to matching then its easy, center stand the bike fill the tank with Jerry and set the float to read full. My bike has a different board then yours, so the pic I posted was the problem "parriehammer" help me with on my tail light. But I would check the light first with the meter then the wiring up to the dash, again end to end. Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 15, 2018 Share #38 Posted June 15, 2018 Some additional information on the cms http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33328-Information-Display-Repair Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share #39 Posted June 15, 2018 Thanks for that link Steven G. So, I investigated my Tail Lights not working. After checking electrics back there, checking both bulbs, Figured I would unplug from the CMS and start there, I noticed that the CMS unplugged fairly easily, did I not firmly seat that plug?? (NOTE: when you unplug CMS, the brake lights don't work. ) So, I sprayed with electric cleaner, plugged back to gather and voila, now the rear running lights work again. Whilst apart, I took out the gas gauge again. Manually ran it up and down, did not make any change on the CMS, acted like it wasn't even connected. Checked the ohms, and they did change on a linear fashion. SO, I'm back to only the gas gauge not working correctly, and I do feel that it is the CMS causing the issues. I plan to take apart again, and resolder as the above link suggests. And to throw another wrench into it, I took for a 50 mile ride, I'm at 100 miles on tank since fill up, gas gauge reads 3 bars. Could it be accurate? I as going to brim off again, but sure is hot outside. Sounds like a reason to go for morning ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 15, 2018 Share #40 Posted June 15, 2018 A couple of things. 1st ohms.. You didn't mention what or how close the readings are to what is suggested. At the moment it may not matter. Next would be to isolate the circuit, meaning measuring ohms at the other end, where it connect to the dash! This is important to troubleshooting, in general.. For the moment, take a very close look at the photo you forwarded. Open it in your file on you desktop focus on the 9 pins which is the internal signal transfer from the plug connection. What do you see, I think pin 6 looks good? maybe For the light I need to look back at the diagram later tonight or tomorrow, usually or often there's a relay.. ride safe Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share #41 Posted June 15, 2018 I'm guessing pin 9 is the middle, pin 6? I zoomed in on my PC, there might be some crusty on a couple terminals. If / when I take it back out (after my check tomorrow), I will be sure to clean everything. I'll update ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 15, 2018 Share #42 Posted June 15, 2018 cleaned and solder all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 16, 2018 Share #43 Posted June 16, 2018 I may have taken for granted that we are all familiar with soldering. If you aren't comfortable with doing it you can bring it to a TV/radio repair shop, easy quick and cheap.. Or there may be a member close to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #44 Posted June 16, 2018 I would be somewhat comfortable soldering. If I go there, I'll ask for more advise... So, I took bike out today, gas gauge seems like it was working correctly, 1-2 bars left at 140 miles on odometer, and I get a solid 40mpg continually. It took 3.5 gallons to fill. However, I filled up, brimmed off, and not good. Gas gauge showed no bars. Put maybe 30 miles on it, started showwing full, all bars, So, I again think before I take CMS apart, I will once again, take out gas gauge (2 minute job anymore, lol) and see if the wiper etc are connecting as they should. Seems they might be very temperamental. Of course the bike is filled with gas now, and can not remove gas gauge, besides, it's smoking dang hot outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 16, 2018 Share #45 Posted June 16, 2018 As you know the meter is just resister wire and can break. I think the connector at the cms needs to be soldered to get rid of intermittent problems. not uncommon Patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share #46 Posted July 18, 2018 cleaned and solder all of them. Today, I removed the cms, and soldered all the pins. Didn't see anything odd, but still resoldered every pin connection, and many more connections. I looked over every aspect of the boards with high powered jeweler glasses, took detail knife and made sure no solder joints touching each other. Reassembled, and no change in how it works. The gas gauge is still wacko. The upside is, I greased my noisy speedo and that is quiet now. I also installed new tires and they ride great, I installed new front brakes and the ol girl actually stops now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted July 18, 2018 Share #47 Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) Me no can read Edited July 18, 2018 by snyper316 Nevermind just read and you did already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted July 18, 2018 Share #48 Posted July 18, 2018 Thanks for that link Steven G. So, I investigated my Tail Lights not working. After checking electrics back there, checking both bulbs, Figured I would unplug from the CMS and start there, I noticed that the CMS unplugged fairly easily, did I not firmly seat that plug?? (NOTE: when you unplug CMS, the brake lights don't work. ) So, (I sprayed with electric cleaner, plugged back to gather and voila, now the rear running lights work again. Whilst apart, This was the reason for resoldering I took out the gas gauge again. Manually ran it up and down, did not make any change on the CMS, acted like it wasn't even connected. So for one what happens is you must allow for time to elapse in order for the readout to change. That a side here's a question for you: Can you measure 12 Volts at the connector to the gas sending unit? Checked the ohms, and they did change on a linear fashion. SO, I'm back to only the gas gauge not working correctly, and I do feel that it is the CMS causing the issues. I plan to take apart again, and resolder as the above link suggests. checking ohms is not enough it must fall into the specs we provided. Then once you know just set the float acrodding to the tech library Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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