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83 1200t cdi


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You will be better served with an aftermarket unit as there ain't no new factory ones to be found!! Ignitech makes a programmable one that works very well for many of us. There is also another manufacturer that makes one that has its own built in response curve for spark advance when accelerating.

 

Keep in mind that the '83 TCI is entirely different from the '84 thru '89 units as far as the vacuum advance, they are 180 degrees out of phase from the other years due to where they take the vacuum information from for the boost sensor. You can, however, use an '84 through '89 if you replumb the vacuum to the boost sensor from the carbs to manifold vacuum, which is in exact opposites from each other, the reason why the advance is 180 degrees out of phase with the following years...

 

Buying a used unit off of eBay is a crap shoot as even though they may work, it doers not mean they work 100% right! Some of them can cause a misfire at higher rpms...

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You will be better served with an aftermarket unit as there ain't no new factory ones to be found!! Ignitech makes a programmable one that works very well for many of us. There is also another manufacturer that makes one that has its own built in response curve for spark advance when accelerating.

 

Keep in mind that the '83 TCI is entirely different from the '84 thru '89 units as far as the vacuum advance, they are 180 degrees out of phase from the other years due to where they take the vacuum information from for the boost sensor. You can, however, use an '84 through '89 if you replumb the vacuum to the boost sensor from the carbs to manifold vacuum, which is in exact opposites from each other, the reason why the advance is 180 degrees out of phase with the following years...

 

Buying a used unit off of eBay is a crap shoot as even though they may work, it doers not mean they work 100% right! Some of them can cause a misfire at higher rpms...

 

Ok, this leads me to a question. Would you replumb for greater availability of the 84-89 in the future? It's a 35,000 mile Gen 1.

 

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Just my opinion which I guess ain't worth the entire 2 cent but I would hold out for a original one or go Ignitech. I loaned my best 83 out in Ashville to Hydroyer and ain't heard from him since.

Edited by Yammer Dan
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I have an Ignitek in mine, I do like it but my take out is the later model so it wouldnt do you any good. I think Gary has stopped selling Igniteks, I dont know if anyone else here sells them. I got mine from another member that bought but never used. If nobody here sells them I believe Sean of Morleys Muscle sells them and may have a used OEM. Hes a Vmax guy but Im pretty sure its the same box. Also with the Ignitek you can run simple resistorless COPs. I hope you get it sorted soon. If you do go this route I have Venture maps that Gary was kind enough to send me.

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You know my pain in moving may end up being your best friend the reason I'm trying to hang on to my box. I went with regulatorrectifier box so far it has been really good to me but if I need the box adjusted and well I won't have bike to ride till it comes back... I paid 75 for the box..... But I have 3 yr warranty on new box.... Since 🔨 and 🐄puc have loaned there's out you might be able to twist my arm.... Search the part number on eBay? Be careful tho there has been couple times that they listed a cruise module as TCI or CDI box..

 

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Ignitech website: ignitech.cz/en

 

You want the TCIP4, version 88, I believe. I sent them an email, stating that I need for 83 Yamaha Venture, "plug and play". They will respond with what you need and cost. I paid $193, including shipping for mine. (mention venturerider.org for possible discount). You will need to replumb your vacuum source, but lots of info on doing that on this site.

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Pain?

 

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Lol I feel like I been ran over by all my stuff.. I have that TCI box in a box all wrapped up and in my saddlebags. I also did not know you could get plug and play boxes from igniteck. I was kinda referring to is one guys pain may be another's gain... Moving when not planned is a PITA, so that being said I could extra $$$$ right now. Just debating on what to do.

 

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I really appreciate this help sniper. I have no idea yet if that's what he's going to find out this is. I'm still at the mercy of what he tells me. I can hang parts and replace things but I'm not a motorcycle mechanic that's for sure! Pretty sure they won't be working tomorrow or Tuesday so I'll be back as soon as I know something more than that you guys are Simply Amazing

 

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Ignitech sends pre-programmed for the bike you specify, but they are programmable to your specs. If you get one, be sure to get the option to program with a laptop or notebook. Several members here have access to various programs depending on performance requirements. So far, I am using mine as-is, but plan to "play" with the programming later.

I also have a 1983, which requires blocking off #2 carb vac port and using the #2 carb sync port.

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I re-read your first post. In it you said your mechanic told you he thought it was a fried TCI. I assume your mechanic has gone through the checklist in the service manual that checks all other ignition components prior to determining that it is the TCI?

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I really appreciate this help sniper. I have no idea yet if that's what he's going to find out this is. I'm still at the mercy of what he tells me. I can hang parts and replace things but I'm not a motorcycle mechanic that's for sure! Pretty sure they won't be working tomorrow or Tuesday so I'll be back as soon as I know something more than that you guys are Simply Amazing

 

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You were posting the above while I was typing the last response. You told me what i need to know.

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Okay. So this is what I know... I stopped in on Friday or Thursday to find out when I might be coming up in the list and while we were visiting I don't know if he has actually looked at it or has been thinking about it. His quote to me was, " I'm thinking it's the TCI unit. How bet you when I get down there and disconnect it we get rid of the open ground that shorting everything else out." He said he's on it for sure this week. I told him, "Look, I have my work and I have this bike. I really neeeeeed this bike!"

 

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CDI not TCI. sorry.

 

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Tamato vs tomato basically same thing. They are transistor controlled ignition in our bikes I believe cdi means capacitor discharge ignition.. Open ground could be checked by the black and white wire I believe I could be mistaken. ....

 

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I've been told it's open ground. All handle bar controls short and signals blow. 4 way flasher work. No rear lights. Turn the kill switch to run and it blows fuse. Main 40 amp was blown but replaced and not blowing.

 

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Wiring harness is in great shape. When watching a guy try to find it, he stuck the meter in the input side of a fuse and it showed from 12 and settled around 8.1. The other side showed 0. That's the extent of my technical knowledge. Sorry.

 

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