MattK Posted April 25, 2017 Share #1 Posted April 25, 2017 So I followed some threads here, got some bright (get it?) ideas there. Went and dropped $100 at Superbrightleds.com and got the resistors that were recommended in the thread about how to do this. Got it all hooked up and no matter what I do, those super bright LEDS just come on and stay on. Do I just need a new flasher? They work fine with the old bulbs, but just stay on....mocking me...laughing at my every turn...trying to undermine me. Yesterday I think I saw one of those S.O.B. resistors in a restaurant with MY WIFE at the outskirts of town! What can I do?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanRiver Posted April 25, 2017 Share #2 Posted April 25, 2017 Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter: I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted April 26, 2017 I'm using these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/ they are 50w 6 ohm from Super Bright. I'll dig ou tmy meter and test them, but it seems unlikely that they would both be brand new and bad, doesn't it? Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter: I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted April 26, 2017 Share #4 Posted April 26, 2017 Do you have Four resistors and if you replaced the dash lights do you have a resistor up there too? I am glad to know I am not the only one that has this issue with the 83 circuitry. But they will blink very slowly with all 4 resistors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share #5 Posted April 26, 2017 I did change out the dash lights too, and had no problem with that. The only one I left alone is the "headlamp" one, because it was way too bright. Apparently it has a little bit of power to it all the time, and you don't really see it with an incandescent, but the LED is super bright. I did try both resistors on one side thinking if that fixed it, I would just order two more, but it didn't really make a difference. I'm sort of at a loss here. Do you have Four resistors and if you replaced the dash lights do you have a resistor up there too? I am glad to know I am not the only one that has this issue with the 83 circuitry. But they will blink very slowly with all 4 resistors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted April 26, 2017 Share #6 Posted April 26, 2017 I'm using these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/ they are 50w 6 ohm from Super Bright. I'll dig ou tmy meter and test them, but it seems unlikely that they would both be brand new and bad, doesn't it? You have to also create an element between the ground wire and the turn signal wire, Crossing them with the resistor... If you give up on that then get an ep36 flasher from autozone or oreily. The side of your stock flasher that says C is the wire going to your counselor, What I did here is cut the wire 2-3 inches from the plug. took the plug side and ran a ground wire to it no not have the stock flasher plugged in. Plug in the EP 36 flasher and you will not need the resistors... this in turn takes away your cancelling unit. Basically all mine is reversible essentially. As I was just running a test on this. I just haven't went back to stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share #7 Posted April 26, 2017 I did that, I ran it from ground to the turn signal wire. I may just go but a new flasher and ignore it, the cancelling thing only seems to work half the time anyway, and I won't miss it. You have to also create an element between the ground wire and the turn signal wire, Crossing them with the resistor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share #8 Posted April 26, 2017 I'm still a little confused about how to bypass the flasher. What do you mean, you took the plug side and ran a ground wire to it? You have to also create an element between the ground wire and the turn signal wire, Crossing them with the resistor... If you give up on that then get an ep36 flasher from autozone or oreily. The side of your stock flasher that says C is the wire going to your counselor, What I did here is cut the wire 2-3 inches from the plug. took the plug side and ran a ground wire to it no not have the stock flasher plugged in. Plug in the EP 36 flasher and you will not need the resistors... this in turn takes away your cancelling unit. Basically all mine is reversible essentially. As I was just running a test on this. I just haven't went back to stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted April 26, 2017 Share #9 Posted April 26, 2017 I think I need to go check the driveway. See if Tinker is still out there :stickpoke:because basically sounds exactly like the same problems I had. The canceling unit only worked when it wanted too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted April 26, 2017 Share #10 Posted April 26, 2017 OK your stock flasher if you flip it upside down and look on it, it has B+, L, C. Take note of where C would plug in on your connector, This is the one that runs to the Cancelling unit. I had to change it to ground, Because the regular normal flasher have either 2 prongs or 3 prongs, the one I gave you the part number to has 3 prongs. You will see B+ L and G - I can not remember exactly how it is as its undereath my fairing so I am going off of memory, so basically you have to create a ground for the new flasher as the cancelling unit will not work as a ground..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share #11 Posted April 26, 2017 By God I think I understand what you mean!! Now if I can just figure out how to get my giant hands down to where the flasher is to get it out... OK your stock flasher if you flip it upside down and look on it, it has B+, L, C. Take note of where C would plug in on your connector, This is the one that runs to the Cancelling unit. I had to change it to ground, Because the regular normal flasher have either 2 prongs or 3 prongs, the one I gave you the part number to has 3 prongs. You will see B+ L and G - I can not remember exactly how it is as its undereath my fairing so I am going off of memory, so basically you have to create a ground for the new flasher as the cancelling unit will not work as a ground..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted April 26, 2017 Share #12 Posted April 26, 2017 By God I think I understand what you mean!! Now if I can just figure out how to get my giant hands down to where the flasher is to get it out... Take the Fairing off alot easier and you will see them both on the left side about underneath where the windshield mounts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.tyler58 Posted April 27, 2017 Share #13 Posted April 27, 2017 Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter: I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion? It's this kind of help that I find simply amazing from this group! You are a Treasure! Thank you. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share #14 Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) Well I don't know if this is just a joke you all play on the new guy, but I think I have officially given up. I went and spent about $30 (more) on wire, connectors, and the flasher, on top of the $40 or so I already spent at SuperbrightLEDS.com for the turn signal portion. Hooked it all up, and??? Nothing. Not. A. Damned. Thing. No blink, just solid, like it was before I cut my wiring all to hell. Ran a ground to the wire that was formerly connected to the canceler, tried to ground it in several locations, to no avail. At this point, I think I'm done. Buh. Edited April 30, 2017 by MattK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted May 1, 2017 Share #15 Posted May 1, 2017 Well I don't know if this is just a joke you all play on the new guy, but I think I have officially given up. I went and spent about $30 (more) on wire, connectors, and the flasher, on top of the $40 or so I already spent at SuperbrightLEDS.com for the turn signal portion. Hooked it all up, and??? Nothing. Not. A. Damned. Thing. No blink, just solid, like it was before I cut my wiring all to hell. Ran a ground to the wire that was formerly connected to the canceler, tried to ground it in several locations, to no avail. At this point, I think I'm done. Buh. I am not sure where you cut wires, But I will pull the right fairing off of my bike. I need to know two things, One have you tried to go completely LED. I will try to reconstruct all the issues I ran into and I will do my darndest in detail to show what I have done. I fought with this Led thing for 3 months. I never gave up I just walked away from it and continued to study things. So in a way my fault for not making a clearer write up of what I actually did. I should have wrote it down in my tablets and then posted it to here once I got it all done. So give me a week and hopefully I can help you figure it out. This in no way was a trick, The 83 Venture was a Unicorn, Kind of the Alpha version of the bikes, then 84-85 was the beta, and of course 86-93 was the final release of them... Till they rebuilt something that was fine all along, Sorry 2nd Gens I cant tell you guys from Harleys half the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted May 2, 2017 Share #16 Posted May 2, 2017 Specifically which bulbs did you get? SB has many to chose from. I helped one person chase a turn signal issue and it turned out that it was the specific LED bulbs were not compatible with a 1st gen. Now this was on a MK2 and the 83 is different so I am not sure if the same issues will apply. But the problem was that the bright and dim parts of the LED were internally connected so the running light circuit was energizing the flasher side of the bulb causing a steady on condition. I did find a fix but I will need to find that old thread with my notes. I can also do some tests to see if you can check your bulbs for the same issue. I have both good and bad bulbs laying around here somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share #17 Posted May 2, 2017 Oh I know, I wasn't really being serious. I'm just frustrated with this thing. I am not sure where you cut wires, But I will pull the right fairing off of my bike. I need to know two things, One have you tried to go completely LED. I will try to reconstruct all the issues I ran into and I will do my darndest in detail to show what I have done. I fought with this Led thing for 3 months. I never gave up I just walked away from it and continued to study things. So in a way my fault for not making a clearer write up of what I actually did. I should have wrote it down in my tablets and then posted it to here once I got it all done. So give me a week and hopefully I can help you figure it out. This in no way was a trick, The 83 Venture was a Unicorn, Kind of the Alpha version of the bikes, then 84-85 was the beta, and of course 86-93 was the final release of them... Till they rebuilt something that was fine all along, Sorry 2nd Gens I cant tell you guys from Harleys half the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted May 2, 2017 Share #18 Posted May 2, 2017 Oh I know, I wasn't really being serious. I'm just frustrated with this thing. Ah join the crowd look up my, I give up trying to put leds on the bike.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?126360-OK-I-give-up-Trying-to-put-Leds-throught-out-the-bike "Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share #19 Posted May 2, 2017 This is a screenshot of my SBLED order. The tail/brake works fine once I jumped the CMU, but not the turns. Thanks again for helping. Specifically which bulbs did you get? SB has many to chose from. I helped one person chase a turn signal issue and it turned out that it was the specific LED bulbs were not compatible with a 1st gen. Now this was on a MK2 and the 83 is different so I am not sure if the same issues will apply. But the problem was that the bright and dim parts of the LED were internally connected so the running light circuit was energizing the flasher side of the bulb causing a steady on condition. I did find a fix but I will need to find that old thread with my notes. I can also do some tests to see if you can check your bulbs for the same issue. I have both good and bad bulbs laying around here somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted May 2, 2017 Share #20 Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) MattK I will apologize first off by giving you the wrong part number for the flasher unit, I will also state when you use this flasher you should not need any resistors. I sound aggravated in the video is because I had to make the silly thing 4 times before my camera would aim right... and focus like I wanted it to. This is the wire ground I have running I have no Resistors The Wire that originally ran over to the cancelling unit from the OEM Flasher is Yellow with a green stripe. The B is for battery and the L is for Lights and the C is for Cancelling unit . This is how the EP34 Flasher, This is My ground Wire I have running for both flashers, I think i should loctite this guys because it has came loose twice on me. Cancelling unit Location I did nothing here just showing where it is It is located behind the Right hand Fairing on the inner plastic piece that runs around the Neck. Edited May 2, 2017 by snyper316 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattK Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share #21 Posted May 2, 2017 MattK I will apologize first off by giving you the wrong part number for the flasher unit, I will also state when you use this flasher you should not need any resistors. I sound aggravated in the video is because I had to make the silly thing 4 times before my camera would aim right... and focus like I wanted it to. This is the wire ground I have running I have no Resistors The Wire that originally ran over to the cancelling unit from the OEM Flasher is Yellow with a green stripe. The B is for battery and the L is for Lights and the C is for Cancelling unit http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109124 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109120. This is how the EP34 Flasher, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109121 This is My ground Wire I have running for both flashers, I think i should loctite this guys because it has came loose twice on me. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109122 Cancelling unit Location I did nothing here just showing where it is It is located behind the Right hand Fairing on the inner plastic piece that runs around the Neck. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109123 Are you pretty sure the #34 flasher would be the problem? I bought and installed the EP(?)36 and it didn't work. I'm not sure on the letters, but the number 36 is right. Could that be all it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted May 2, 2017 Share #22 Posted May 2, 2017 I am fixing to head over to town I will double check. But I am thinking ep36 is for regular bulbs "Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted May 2, 2017 Share #23 Posted May 2, 2017 Are you pretty sure the #34 flasher would be the problem? I bought and installed the EP(?)36 and it didn't work. I'm not sure on the letters, but the number 36 is right. Could that be all it is? Well I just went down and checked at Oreily, the 36 does cover LED lights. But it says right on the flasher 3-6, Mine is the 34 and it says 2-6 lamps... So I am left with why would yours be solid..... I would think the 36 would work, I know I checked my flasher out wired it all up and hooked just one bulb to it.... and it flashed it. So is there a way you can wire up your flasher to a bulb and check and make sure your flasher is working correctly. I know it is tricky to do but it is possible I used wedge lights.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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