Jump to content
IGNORED

my 84 will not run unless choke is all the open


Recommended Posts

This bike has been parked for 1 1/2 years, the battery died and then I got deployed for 12 months.

 

I had this same problem with my 2001 when I first got it, so I cleaned the heck out of the carbs. I did that 2 days ago to the 84. It does have some bad gas in the tank (not even enough to register 1 bar on the fuel gauge). I put 2 gallons of 89 octane in there with some fuel system cleaner. It smokes like coal burning train and will not let me take the choke off, even if I wait for the bike to warm up and register some heat on the temp gauge. It differs from my 2001 because it will not let me apply any throttle.

 

Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. I am going to buy another can of carb cleaner tomorrow and hit them again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like your pilot jets are plugged. You might try the shotgun method of cleaning but most likely you need to pull the carbs and clean really good. When you open the "choke" it really is letting gas bypass the pilot jets and feed gas to the intakes.

The other thing I would check first is that you don't have a bad vacuum leak. Check the YICS hoses and canister if you haven't already removed and plugged. If you have removed check to make sure you don't have a vacuum plug blown off or broken. Spray starting fluid , wd40, or carb cleaner around the intakes with the engine running to see if you have a leak. If you do the system will rev up..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like your pilot jets are plugged. You might try the shotgun method of cleaning but most likely you need to pull the carbs and clean really good. When you open the "choke" it really is letting gas bypass the pilot jets and feed gas to the intakes.

The other thing I would check first is that you don't have a bad vacuum leak. Check the YICS hoses and canister if you haven't already removed and plugged. If you have removed check to make sure you don't have a vacuum plug blown off or broken. Spray starting fluid , wd40, or carb cleaner around the intakes with the engine running to see if you have a leak. If you do the system will rev up..

 

 

I've had to do the shotgun to my Vmax (almost identical carbs) after a short 2 week break. I have better luck when I'm able to avoid ethanol tainted fuel but these carbs are sensitive regardless. I know it can be done with carb cleaner but I use a small compressor for some extra psi. 1.5 years with ethanol and my guess is the carbs are coming off but the shotgun may well work if no ethanol was present, also I would drain the tank of any ethanol tainted fuel or you may be running that nasty stuff right back into the carbs after cleaning. Good luck and thanks for serving, glad your back safely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found part of my problem. All of my diaphragms have small holes or tears in them. I cleaned well with the mixture screws still in. I am going to order 4 new diaphragms and then pull all the mixture screws out when I am installing the new diaphragms.

 

I also got an oil filter, oil, plugs, and rear end oil. She should be good to before the end of October.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, where to start. I did the shotgun method to clean my carbs, replaced all 4 diaphragms (pics of old ones will be in watering hole shortly), I have all types of water remover and gas fixer in the tank with some new fresh 89 octane, I received my spark tester today and figured out that my right rear cylinder has no spark. The front right cylinder fires when it wants. It was very spuratic and sometimes did not fire for several seconds. I have not checked the left side of the bike yet.

 

I think I will be replacing most if not all of the ignition system. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good system? Is there anything else that would make my bike not fire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd replace the spark plugs if you haven't already done that. You can also use a good plug and test each cylinder by pulling the plug wire off the installed cylinder plug and hook it to your good plug then make sure its grounded and make sure you have spark it won't be a big bright spark just a small one at best with the old original TCI.

The other thing would be to cut off about 1/4 inch of the sparkplug wires at the coil end some times they get corroded.

You might have bad TCI if its the original. I just had to get a new one for an 85 I'm working on. Purchased from IgniTech. Try putting it in the search box and you will find several posts.

Here is what I got from them for the required package"

 

IGNITECH - Jiří Krejzl

Aug 4

 

to me

 

Hello,

*

We can offer to you unit TCIP4 with connector adapter. This is plug and play connection.

*

unit TCIP4 full version 88********************************************************************************************************** 149 USD

connector adapter********************************************************************************************************************** 6 USD

freightage DHL ***************************************************************************************************************************** 52 USD

*

Useful accessories is USB/COM cable for connection to PC*************************************** 15 USD

*

Payment method is card payment or PayPal.

If you want it - send me your address for invoice and your phone number for DHL.

*

Regards.

*

Jiri Krejzl

IGNITECH

 

 

Good luck hope that helps

Edited by van avery
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...