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Help!!!!!- rear rotor bolt removal


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Got the wheel off and on the ground. Can't get the allen head bolts out. I have compared it with the new ones which appear to have standard right hand threads. The allen head socket already looked tweeaked, and had to tap allen wrench in to get it to seat. BUT THE DING_DONG THINGS WILL NOT BUDGE!! Stripped one head out, so tried the ole visegrips, but no luck.

 

The rotor was chewed when I bought the bike at 14,000 miles, and now it seems it has be replaced once already and tightened by a gorilla.

 

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

 

Bubba

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I used propane so as not to overdo it, heated it one till ready to cook griddle cakes (ie spit on it, and it instantly sizzles away) and the vise grips took them right out.

 

Strange thing was that rotor just got warm, and wheel around bolt didn't even feel warm, so I guess no damage to wheel.

 

9:40 pm here on the east coast. Bed time, get blue loctite and grease for driveline tommorrow and put her back on road.

 

Pieces of metal from the inside pad had welded themselves onto the rotor. BBAAAADDD scoring.

 

Thanks

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The wheel is aluminum and will conduct heat away very quickly. When you put the new rotor back on I am pretty sure the book says to tighten it down in 3 stages in a criss cross pattern so as not to warp the rotor. I know I had to do that with the front. Felt like a warped rotor till I pulled them and re tightened them following those steps. It was after a dealer changed my tire and pulled one of the rotors to change it for some reason.

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I changed the rotor on my Vstar last year. They are in with Locktite. I was able to get them to turn by using a cold chisel and taping the edge of the head in a c/clockwise direction. Replacements were something like 85 cents @ the local stealer. :080402gudl_prv:

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