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41R TCI Compatibility Question


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I have an 87 Venture Royal with a 41R-11 Type TID14-34 TCI unit. I just purchased a TCI unit off Ebay that is a 41R-10 Type TID14-28 that is flat out dead and I'd like to confirm its compatibility with my bike just to cover all bases before I try to return the defective TCI. The 41R-10 looks great when I took the back off so I'm really disappointed, I guess the hunt goes on for a good TCI, My unit is on the left and the Ebay unit is on the right in this picture-

0720151600.jpg

 

 

My bike starts right up with the original 41R-11 TCI, but when I try the 41R-10 TCI I get nothing it just spins and spins, not even a backfire or pop of any kind so I’m guessing the 41R-11 is no good, but I’d like to there’s not a compatibility issue.

 

Thanks

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Dingy get the Tci units for the 1st gens, msg him about one, I'm sure he will get you fixed up.

 

I sure would love to get one of Dingy's TCI's, unfortunately, it's a little out of my price range right now. For now I'm stuck with trying to find a deal on 30-year-old Tec and hoping it still functions like it supposed to, strike one. It looks like I'll have to wait for one to turn up from a more reliable source and not made out of gold like most I've seen

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Well naturally the seller on EBay said no returns on electronics so I had to go thru Ebay to get any action, I know how EBay works with negative feedback so tried I tried to go directly to the seller first. He offered to give me half my money back along with a nasty message so any empathy I had for him just vanished. EBay has a guarantee policy so I know I can get a full refund, but I am tempted to take the offer just to open it up and see if I can fix as it was fairly cheap.

 

Another question I have is this unit for a different motor altogether and that is why it doesn't work on my bike? I'm fairly certain it is for a Venture other that an 83 but, mine is a 46-11 Type TID14-34, not a 46-10 Type14-28 and the tag is blue not green a minor difference I'm sure, but it might be important. I need some input from someone more knowledgeable than myself

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Any of the 41R TCI's will interchange. Something internally caused Yamaha to bump the revision level. Not necessarily performance related. Could have been component change on board for some reason.

 

Here is link to one I sell in classifieds here. It will work, brand new modern electronics, fully epoxy encapsulated.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=396&title=ignitech-ignition-control-module-for-1983-1993-venture-27s&cat=20

 

Gary

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Thanks, Dingy that's the information I needed. I know your TCI is the way to go and it is priced less than most used TCI's on EBay, but I'm financially challenged right now so I'm forced to go the cheap route and as usual it seems to have bit me in the Hind Quarters.

This TCI look to be in great shape much better than mine, but when I plug it in the motor just spins like it’s not even there. Curiosity is getting the better of me; I really want to desolder the board to get a look at the other side, but I doubt I could repair it

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I thought Dingy's was a great idea and was having trouble with mine at the time. Bought Dingy's and while waiting for it looked at connections on the old one. Found simple fix and it purred. Then he had a sale on them again. Now I got two and haven't hooked one up yet!! Family is saying I need to spend more time in the garage so I may need another!!!

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I'm amazed at how well the Ebay TCI looks, but when I desoldered the board and got a look at the other side of the board, wow what a mess. There's obviously been a small stream that flowed thru the board compleat with rust, not only the usual 8 burned out Diodes, but many resistors, you name it. This puppy's shot, no bringing it back to life, He's dead Jim. I feel a lot better about my ugly Box, my bike runs great on 3 cylinders, no 2 is giving me fits, its come down to I have to a least try a known good TCI to know for sure, it will happen some day

Edited by Vonwolf
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Just for giggles, grab a meter and check the resistance of the spark plug cap.

 

I had a similar problem with a #2 miss and it was the cap.

 

All my Caps and wires are new, but I checked them anyway and the all are 4.7K. I think they're supposed to be 5k but there new so it's probably just a crappy Meter, I think they are good

 

* I checked the Meter and it shows .6k when I touch the bare leads so that puts it around 5.3k so I think they're good

 

** When I try to take the boot off with the motor running I get a good jolt, so I know there's spark. I have a new boot and some wire so I'll change it out, might stop some spark energy from bleeding out

Edited by Vonwolf
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Clean the connections to TCI??:think:

Thanks, Dan, I've cleaned and cleaned those connections, not to mention I've plugged and unplugged them dozens of times, so I hope they're not the problem. I'll probably clean them a few times more just in case, and I can't think of anything else to do?

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I changed the nimber 2 cap and wire and that did the trick, it's running on all 4 cylinders, probably for the first time since I've owned it. I picked up a 41R-11 on EBay last night, from a seller that takes returns if it's dead, but it looks like I might not have needed it after all. I'm sure a backup unit won't kill me, but I wish I would have changed the plug and wire set 2 days ago

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The sad thing is, I had an extra cap and wire laying around because I replaced only the caps that didn't check out with the ohm meter. The only reason I changed it this time and number 3 for that matter, was they gave me a good jolt when I'd foolishly tried to pull them with the bike running it verifies spark, but a bit uncomfortable. I should have just changed them all out in the first place, live and learn, some day maybe.

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  • 2 weeks later...
The sad thing is, I had an extra cap and wire laying around because I replaced only the caps that didn't check out with the ohm meter. The only reason I changed it this time and number 3 for that matter, was they gave me a good jolt when I'd foolishly tried to pull them with the bike running it verifies spark, but a bit uncomfortable. I should have just changed them all out in the first place, live and learn, some day maybe.

 

That thing on the end of your arm... I think it's called a "hand"; it has 5 extensions on it called "fingers", some one told me they are really the Mark 1 voltage tester, they work pretty good but there are better ways....I used an old spark plug and some insulated pliers, I put the cap on the plug and held the plug to the engine and hit the start button, didn't see much so I turned the key on and turned out the lights in the shop... hit the starter button again and presto!!! beautiful bluish-white spark!

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That thing on the end of your arm... I think it's called a "hand"; it has 5 extensions on it called "fingers", some one told me they are really the Mark 1 voltage tester, they work pretty good but there are better ways....I used an old spark plug and some insulated pliers, I put the cap on the plug and held the plug to the engine and hit the start button, didn't see much so I turned the key on and turned out the lights in the shop... hit the starter button again and presto!!! beautiful bluish-white spark!

I do agree there are better spark testers than the "Mark 1 Voltage tester" but I was actually trying to see if the RPM's dropped off after the plug was pulled. Using insulated pliers to pull the plug is the smart way to do this, but I was right there by the bike and the piers were way over in my work shed and what's a few thousand volts amongst friends? The perfect storm to get zapped by my bike

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Hehehehehe

 

i do agree there are better spark testers than the "mark 1 voltage tester" but i was actually trying to see if the rpm's dropped off after the plug was pulled. Using insulated pliers to pull the plug is the smart way to do this, but i was right there by the bike and the piers were way over in my work shed and what's a few thousand volts amongst friends? The perfect storm to get zapped by my bike
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