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Engine Off Run Switch


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About a year ago, I was having low voltage problems which would cause insufficient voltage to the fuel pump relay to run the pump. I cleaned a lot of connections, replaced the fuse box and cleaned the engine off/run (kill) switch and the problem went away for a year.

 

I never used the switch to turn the bike off but always used the ignition key. Well, after reading some posts of the benefits of using the switch, last weekend I started using it on an overnight ride. The voltage problem returned. I was able to get it running and make it home but I have to fix this.

 

I'm assuming the problem is related to the kill switch but I want to confirm this. I am looking for the best way to bypass the switch to see if that fixes it. Should I do it at the switch or is there a better place. I don't know where the wires from the kill switch go and if there is a connector that I can jump. The diagram shows the two wires ,R/W, from the switch going to a six way plug which I assume is behind the headlight. Is that correct?

 

Then, what can I do to this switch, other than bypass it, to fix it or should I replace it. I can't find a new one so I would have to buy used. I know there is an excellent instruction in "read only" on cleaning this switch. The only part I'm not sure of is using dielectric grease on the contacts as it suggests. I didn't do that last time. Would it help? Thanks.

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The dielectric grease does help keep the switch clean longer. The grease helps to keep water and air from causing corrosion of the contacts. it is easy to jumper the 2 red white wires at the switch for testing or emergencies.

As part of my winter maintenance I have just got in the habit of cleaning all of the handlebar mounted switches. Once you have done it a few times, it goes pretty fast.

 

I did not remove/disable my kill switch when I had problems with it, I still want that shutoff option there in an emergency.

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