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Battery Cable replacement and Plug Wire Questions?


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I have recently purchased a 1989 Venture and now have it home in my garage where I can crawl around in it. I have ordered and am waiting for the battery cable upgrade, and as well I ordered a new set of plug wires,caps and resistors. Being the curious type, I have removed the lower leg fairings, side covers and fuel tank cover, as well as rad cover and chin cover so I can see where everything is.

 

Question#1. When I do the battery cable replacement, will I have enough room to also replace the plug wires? Or, will I have to remove more fairing etc once I remove battery box etc from the top?

 

Question #2. While exploring, I found some oily, dirty areas. By removing the rubber covering for the clutch bleed screw, you can see down to it. From underneath, the wires and area directly above the sidestand switch appear to be quite grimey. Also, from underneath it seems to be above and maybe a little forward of the exhaust collection manifold. I have run the bike a few times in the garage and I see no oil on the floor. I think it is probably a small leak/seep that has been doing this for years...or maybe is more evident after a good run. I know most engines have a bit of area that collects oil and grime but I had to see it. Should I be concerned enough to start tearing this apart, or maybe this should be next winters project? Any ideas what it is and whats all involved?

 

Thanks for replies, and I am sorry to get two different questions on one post.

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If your bike has never been apart for a thorough cleaning, it'll get like this. My 84 was nasty when I tore it down. Under the clutch slave cylinder cover, you will get seepage from the alternator wires that come out of the left side case, maybe some from the clutch slave cylinder if it's been bled, maybe even valve cover gaskets.

 

You should be able to get to the plug wires after you remove the battery box, may even be able to remove the setup-- also has your ignition box and boost sensor on the bracket. Clean all your connections with an electrical component cleaner while you have them out.

 

I'm sure others will be on here to help also.

 

Good luck,

 

Dan

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1) Just had battery tray out this weekend. It gives access to 2 aft coils. There are two more in front of them tha could not be accessed. You might be able to get there from the front with the radiator removed.

 

2) Yeah, everything leaks a little. If it's not messing the floor, I say "if it ain't broke don't fix it!" That being said, there is talk of a seal over there that can leak - I think it's a little seal for the clutch pushrod. You have to remove the clutch slave cylinder to get to it.

 

Jeremy

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Thanks Gearhead. I also now have my battery cover etc all removed also in preparation for the wires arriving soon. It seems once I got started poking around....I couldn't stop until I had it all torn apart. I can easily see the two rear coils from the top. I also took a lot of the lower front fairing off, radiator cover, and a cover just under the headlight etc and I think I can manage to squeeze into those tough areas enough to replace the plug wires.

 

My replacement truck light for the rear trunk reflector came in today. Not sure how I will wire it ie with running lights or just have them all come on with the brakes. Untill I decide there is no sense drilling a hole for the wiring. Maybe I will not install it at all and just resell it. Also plan on removing the 55w driving lights installed on the bike and replacing them with 35 or 20w ones. I want to be seen by cage riders more than I need bright lights for night riding. Will save some power, and hope to have enough for heated vest, extra rear light, and the trailer that come with the bike.

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Your driving lights probably have H3 bulbs. You can get 35W H3 bulb replacements for just a few bucks online, don't remember where. Is your new rear light an LED? How about the trailer lights? If so, they draw almost no power. Remember when considering your rear lighting that only 6% of MC accidents happen from getting hit in the rear.

 

Jeremy

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The new rear light is 6x 12v, 3w bulbs. Two are signal. The others can be hooked 100% brake, 100% running, or 50/50 brake and running. I just assumed the bulbs were 1157 until I opened the package today and had planned on maybe changing them to LED's.

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You can get to the front coils from under the nose of the bike. Did mine this way. Watch the right front, I had to reroute slightly as the original was rubbing the fan!! I had the radiator side covers off, the lower fairing sides, and the piece under the nose.

 

JB

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After you clean any electrical connectors, use some dielectric grease on them as you put them back together. I also use it in bulb sockets and on the spark plug wires.

 

If you replace bulbs with LEDs you want to use red bulb behind a red lens. It's brighter that way, the reason being that if you put a white light in, the red lens blocks all except for the red light emitted.

 

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"The new rear light is 6x 12v, 3w bulbs. Two are signal. The others can be hooked 100% brake, 100% running, or 50/50 brake and running. I just assumed the bulbs were 1157 until I opened the package today and had planned on maybe changing them to LED's."

 

 

 

I've been researching LED's and one thing I've learned is that you're better off with a whole fixture designed for LED's than installing drop-in LED bulb replacements into a fixture designed for incandescents. Incandescents radiate light around essentially 360 degrees, while LED's are very directional. This significantly affects the design of the lense and reflector for optimum usage of the light produced. If you want to reduce the current draw of the factory running and tail lights like I do, there is really no choice but to try to find a reasonably effective LED drop-in replacement bulb. But if you're adding a new fixture like you are, it's better to buy an LED fixture than to install an incandescent fixture and change to LED replacement bulbs. There are a million different styles of LED fixtures available.

 

Jeremy

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