StormRaven Posted June 28, 2014 Share #1 Posted June 28, 2014 I finally got all the parts together to get the exhaust system assembled (too long to wait for 2 copper gaskets), put everything together, did a 30 second test, fixed the front headers back in their seat, did another 30 second test, got a small leak where the #1 header pipe meets the header...adapter? Nothing major, probably need a new gasket there too since both sections of pipe look in great condition. Got all the plastic back on the bike, did an electrical test to make sure the lights were all working, did another crank just to see if it was ready to be taken off its center stand and off on a test drive / refuel after being down a month. It cranked up and ran for 3/4 of a second...and then the whole thing went dead. No Dash, No headlights, no tail lights, no signals, no vroom. Not a thing. Tested the battery: 12.28 volts across the posts, tested all the fuses, Short circuit tone on every one from fuse post to fuse post(this is a good thing in this case). Switched on the aux lights that are wired to battery and they were nice and bright. Finally at the suggestion of Wes0778, I verified that there's voltage from positive terminal to Frame, 12.31 volts. My first inclination is that this is an ignition switch issue. My wife thought it may be the stator, but would that cause all electrical to go out in an instant or would that be more of a thing where the engine would run until the battery had no more juice to give? Please someone let me know where to go from here because I'm stumped with what to test for next and I'm none too happy that it looks like another 2 weeks at a minimum before I can get to riding SaberWIng again. This after being already a month without it, and a new problem cropping up in the same instant a bear of a project came to fruition. Needless to say...none too happy right now . Any help would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 28, 2014 Share #2 Posted June 28, 2014 I finally got all the parts together to get the exhaust system assembled (too long to wait for 2 copper gaskets), put everything together, did a 30 second test, fixed the front headers back in their seat, did another 30 second test, got a small leak where the #1 header pipe meets the header...adapter? Nothing major, probably need a new gasket there too since both sections of pipe look in great condition. Got all the plastic back on the bike, did an electrical test to make sure the lights were all working, did another crank just to see if it was ready to be taken off its center stand and off on a test drive / refuel after being down a month. It cranked up and ran for 3/4 of a second...and then the whole thing went dead. No Dash, No headlights, no tail lights, no signals, no vroom. Not a thing. Tested the battery: 12.28 volts across the posts, tested all the fuses, Short circuit tone on every one from fuse post to fuse post(this is a good thing in this case). Switched on the aux lights that are wired to battery and they were nice and bright. Finally at the suggestion of Wes0778, I verified that there's voltage from positive terminal to Frame, 12.31 volts. My first inclination is that this is an ignition switch issue. My wife thought it may be the stator, but would that cause all electrical to go out in an instant or would that be more of a thing where the engine would run until the battery had no more juice to give? Please someone let me know where to go from here because I'm stumped with what to test for next and I'm none too happy that it looks like another 2 weeks at a minimum before I can get to riding SaberWIng again. This after being already a month without it, and a new problem cropping up in the same instant a bear of a project came to fruition. Needless to say...none too happy right now . Any help would be greatly appreciated! 12.28 and 12.31vdc isn't the best condition for the battery to be in. Pull it out and take to your local auto parts store and let them put a load on it. If it doesn't have enough amps to keep things 'sparkin' the bike will die. Battery should settle overnight to 12.6vdc, and while charging the bike should be putting out 13.8 to 14.2vdc above 2000rpm. I once had a car battery that actually checked out fine in the volatage dept., but when hit with a load it croaked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormRaven Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share #3 Posted June 28, 2014 I'll try that next. One note, after the complete "death," I did try hooking it up to an external battery jumper pack that is capable of turning over my van with a 350 v8, and got a read of 12.68 to the frame. Still couldn't wake the bike from the dead though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 28, 2014 Share #4 Posted June 28, 2014 Might be a dumb question but, did you accidentally hit the kill switch or put the bike in gear with the kickstand down?????!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 28, 2014 Share #5 Posted June 28, 2014 Second thought...., check battery ground and ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 28, 2014 Share #6 Posted June 28, 2014 Check the main fuse. That fuse is in a plastic box off the positive cable. Do you still have the original fuse box? If you do, those fuse holders tend to get loose and the whole fuse holder needs to be updated. Are your battery cables clean and tight? RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 28, 2014 Share #7 Posted June 28, 2014 I'm with Randy check fuses and battery connections first. That thing needs to quit acting like a Hardley!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAWildKat Posted June 29, 2014 Share #8 Posted June 29, 2014 Tricia here. Updated fuseblock, all fuses tested good while seated, but Mike forgot to pull the fuses and make sure they were seated well. So will do that after dinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormRaven Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted June 29, 2014 Might be a dumb question but, did you accidentally hit the kill switch or put the bike in gear with the kickstand down?????!! Tested all of that when the engine went down with all the electronics. None of the switches brought the electronics back to life, and starter would not kick over whatever position any of the switches were in. Second thought...., check battery ground and ignition switch. Battery Ground is good. I get 12.3 volts reading from positive term to the frame. All the additional accessory electronics installed by PO that weren't wired through the central block or ignition accessory switch, such as the Cigarette Lighter, auxiliary lights and accessory circuit for GPS/Radar Detector, also still work. Also the battery was tested under load and gave a read of 515 CCA, which is enough to turn over my Caprice or Traverse without a problem (I wouldn't actually do that ), though I wouldn't trust it on the Van. Check the main fuse. That fuse is in a plastic box off the positive cable. Do you still have the original fuse box? If you do, those fuse holders tend to get loose and the whole fuse holder needs to be updated. Are your battery cables clean and tight? RandyA Haven't tried the main fuse yet, positive cable routes back under the fairing where I can't reach it easily. Going to try that tomorrow when there's more light. PO has done the box upgrade so I have all bladed fuses there. All of those fuses tested good, and I've reseat every one of those. Battery Cables are clean and as tight as the driver can get them without rounding off the corners. I also just confirmed that the CLASS system will not come on when the ignition is in the Acc position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 29, 2014 Share #10 Posted June 29, 2014 OK check the side stand to see if the kill switch is working. If the stand goes down a bit it will kill the engine?? Just a thought.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormRaven Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted June 29, 2014 I think you misunderstood, Condor. I've got no power anywhere on the bike, except for aux lights. The bike behaves as if the ignition key is in the off positron at all times. The CLASS does not activate in the acc position, and none of the lights will come on in the run position. Cb and radio will not turn on or operate, and the starter will not click no matter what the switches are set to. Switches tested include kickstand, brakes (front and rear), clutch, neutral, high/low beam, start/kill, starter button, cruise controls, turn indicators, and hazards. Nothing is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 29, 2014 Share #12 Posted June 29, 2014 Are the auxillary lights wired straight to the battery? If so then that explains why they work and nothing else does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 29, 2014 Share #13 Posted June 29, 2014 Again, check the main fuse. You should be able to pull the positive cable out enough to get to the fuse holder or you may have to undo the positive cable from the battery first. You may even have to pull the battery out to get to it, but I don't think so. Everything you describe sounds like the main fuse is blown. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted June 29, 2014 Share #14 Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) Perhaps, while installing the exhaust, the battery ground at the engine (above the water pump, near the motor mount) was loosened? Edited June 29, 2014 by Prairiehammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 29, 2014 Share #15 Posted June 29, 2014 Again, check the main fuse. You should be able to pull the positive cable out enough to get to the fuse holder or you may have to undo the positive cable from the battery first. You may even have to pull the battery out to get to it, but I don't think so. Everything you describe sounds like the main fuse is blown. RandyA Perhaps, while installing the exhaust, the battery ground at the frame (above the water pump, near the motor mount) was loosened? I agree with ya'll. If the battery was load tested and checked out good then there's got to be a breakdown in the transfer of current from the battery to where ever it's needed. Loose or broken wire wire, or main fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted June 29, 2014 Share #16 Posted June 29, 2014 My '85 had a wire pull loose from the ignition switch. Large red wire that apparently powered everything. I soldered it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAWildKat Posted June 29, 2014 Share #17 Posted June 29, 2014 Pictures are worth 1000 words. Anyone feel like taking pics of the main fuse and location? I know Mike checked all the fuses in the block 3 times now to verify them. Mike was really hoping to finally take me on that b-day ride I missed last month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted June 29, 2014 Share #18 Posted June 29, 2014 Main fuse is pictured on the far left of this photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAWildKat Posted June 29, 2014 Share #19 Posted June 29, 2014 Mainfuse did blow....all appears as it should be.... I just heard the bike crank below me....yay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormRaven Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share #20 Posted June 29, 2014 Well, I changed out the main fuse, but now there's a new problem. When I hit the start button it starts making a nose like "clug clug clug clug clug" and if I turn the handle it seems to scream out "mmooOOOOOOOVVVVvvvve.... MOOOOOOOOOOOVVVvvve!" In all seriousness, he's running great and I'm about to take it out for the first time in a month to refuel and make sure nothing shakes loose before I come back and pick up gawildkat for her belated birthday ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 29, 2014 Share #21 Posted June 29, 2014 Don't want to ruin ride but what caused fuse to blow?? Take a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 29, 2014 Share #22 Posted June 29, 2014 Don't want to ruin ride but what caused fuse to blow?? Take a spare. Yea that!!!!! Take a handful!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 29, 2014 Share #23 Posted June 29, 2014 Hey, did I mention, "Check the main fuse"? I had mine blow as I was coming to a stop several years ago. I bypassed it to get home and then replaced it. I never did find out what caused it to blow. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted July 2, 2014 Share #24 Posted July 2, 2014 if there is one strand of wire still together. meter will read full voltage. use a fuse 5 to 10 amp ground one side, put the other to power of factory fuse on side after fuse if it pops fuse have good connections. just because meter says there is voltage don't mean there is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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