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Cruise oddity


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Hi everyone..

I had posted before about a shudder in my engine when going 75/80..

I have taken the advice of syncing the carbs and took it out for a test ride, and

I still have the shudder..

The odd thing is, while I was riding to work the other day, I decided to use the cruise so I set it and was zipping down the road and all was good, no shudder at 75..then at one point I looked at the dash and notice the OD light was not on and realized I was still in 4th , so I cancel the cruise shift up to 5th and restart the cruise.. but now it will not set, after totally shutting it off with the switch and turning it back on, it did set at 75, only to shut back off again after about 1.4 mile. I could not keep cruise going in 5th no matter what I tried, 4th gear it works perfect, 5th gear not so much..

anyone have a clue as to what is going on?

my other bike with this type of cruise control, I cant set in 4th..only 5th

so I am wondering if this is an engine issue and that is where the shudder is coming from.

 

Thank you

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Guest bodasefus

Sometimes my cruise will not engage and I make sure the clutch lever is fully extended... anymore before I engage the cruise,,, I make sure the clutch lever is all the way out...

 

:bluesbrother:

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Position of the clutch is important. Some people have posted that with leather wraps on them with the "streamers" that the cruise cuts out...wind puts pressure on the clutch and pushes it in enough to disengage.

 

The other thing about cruise... it won't let you engage it if you are over a certain speed. If you were able to set it and then went down hill it might have put you over the "allowed" speed.

 

I believe it is also engaged using a vacuum. If you were able to keep it engaged in 4th but it cuts out in 5th.... don't think a vacuum issue would be the cause.

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CC disengages when either brake or the clutch lever is used. For some unknown reason, Yamaha has different switches for the front brake and clutch levers (even though identical from an electrical standpoint), with the clutch one having a long stem and a mechanical setup that makes it switch very soon.

 

I also have leather fringes on my levers, but it never happened for the wind going through them to disengage the CC :-) It could be because I overhauled most things on my bike, including the clutch, this winter (and "overhauled" begins with a "so that you can eat from them" clean-up); or it could be that I'm just lucky.

 

Going back to the clutch switch being more sensitive than the front brake one: if you've never ever overhauled your clutch, it may make sense to spend $10 and get a new pushrod and bushing (for the lever) and replace them. They wear down with time and decrease what would be the freeplay, in this case the amount of travel until the switch switches. The same goes for checking your lever and its pin: if the pin or the lever hole have gone out-of-round, it could also make your switch act very early on and prevent you from engaging the CC.

 

Yes, the CC is vacuum-operated but that vacuum is not drawn from the engine intake, but from an electric pump.

 

Finally, due to safety reasons, the CC is "picky": if there's anything wrong with the carbs (some people call it "tuning" :D) that makes the engine run differently than stock with respect to "rpms-for-a-given-speed" or the clutch is slipping, or you're going up a steep hill or against powerful wind or, indeed as somebody mentioned, down a very steep hill; the CC will believe something's wrong and cut out.

Safety is also the reason for which, even on a new bike, the CC doesn't engage suddenly. It instead slowly rolls the throttle on to match your current speed and then goes just a little bit down and then back up -- it's checking that it can, indeed, control the engine and the bike's speed.

I know that, for people used with the car version of same, this must be very lame, very antiquated behaviour; yet again a car has more than two wheels and CCs on motorbikes (at the time the RSV was introduced) were still rocket science compared to their car counterparts.

 

Hope this helps.

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If you used the cancel buttonto shut it off itmayhave stuck a little. Mine does that.

 

As for the shudder I felt mine did that and the bike run ok but not perfect I had muffin man set my carbs with his color tune and that was 40, 000 miles ago and it has run perfect ever since no more shudder. Of all the things I have ever done to this bike to make it run right this one thing is by far made the best improvement in it

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