cachris Posted March 11, 2014 Share #1 Posted March 11, 2014 Hi All I’m new here and I just bought a 1983 venture. It does have a few problems though. The first one that I’m taking on is my head light. When the bike is running the bulb is very dim. High beam or low beam doesn't seem to change anything. Measured voltage at the bulb 2.5 volts both high and low beams. I was hearing two relays clicking while messing with the high\low switch. One was gold in color with only the red wire with white stripe being hot under the low beam condition. Nothing was hot under high beams. http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-10134458.jpg One was black in color with 2 red wires with white stripes but only one was hot under the low beam condition. Nothing was hot under high beam. http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-10134511.jpg So I started to walk down the trouble shooting chart and got to step 6. http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/troubleshooting.jpg That is assuming t this is the reserve lighting unit? http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/reservelightingunitcallout.jpg So I get to “Check for voltage on (Y) and (G) wire from the dimmer switch to the computer monitor” http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/Dimmerswitchwires.jpg On the yellow I get 3.76 volts There are 2 green wires with no voltage on either of them. Anybody seen this or have an idea where to start. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted March 11, 2014 Share #2 Posted March 11, 2014 Welcome aboard and we hope you join. It will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike. A dim headlight is a typical symptom of your CMS having a cold solder joint. It does concern me that both your high and low beam are giving you the same reading, which could be the start button, but this will give you a place to start. RandyA http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 11, 2014 Share #3 Posted March 11, 2014 The RLU is a bigger black box mounted behind the relays attached tom the frame piece the relays mount to. It has wires coming out of the side and go to a connector... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted March 12, 2014 Thanks everybody. So I pulled the computer and it looked really good. I will solder the pins tomorrow and see what happens. http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192102.jpg http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192110.jpg http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192119.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted March 12, 2014 Share #5 Posted March 12, 2014 Usually, I have found that the problem areas are where the blades from the connector come through the board. I also use plastic ties to hold up the wiring harness to take some of the pull off these pins when I put the dash back in. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 12, 2014 Share #6 Posted March 12, 2014 As long as you are in there........ Since you already have the computer out, If you ever intend to convert to a HID or LED headlight or LED brake/tail light, Now would be the perfect time to install the jumpers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted April 12, 2014 Ok the board is soldered.... but now when i hit the start button the headlight goes out but the bike doesn't crank over.... Is it possible I messed the broad up, affecting the starting circuit. On a good note the headlight has about 9 volts now at the bulb and the high low seems to be working as well. The computer seems to be working better. Just wont turn over now. Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted April 12, 2014 Share #8 Posted April 12, 2014 The headlight going out when you hit the starter button is a good thing, it is supposed to do that. As far as not cranking, check to be sure you did not bump off the red Kill switch on the top of the right handlebar. You would not be the first to have done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted April 12, 2014 Share #9 Posted April 12, 2014 Or is it possibly in gear with the kick stand down ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted April 12, 2014 The bike is on the center stand and in neutral. does the CMS unit have anything to do with the starting circuit? Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 12, 2014 Share #11 Posted April 12, 2014 No, CMS shouldn't affect cranking, however just a guess.....since fixing CMS and you now show 9 V at headlight with key on....it should be close to battery voltage...might test your battery voltage....it might be only ~ 9 V there too. Doubt it will crank at that low of voltage. If battery is normal ~12.6 V...possibly when pulling dash out the starting circuit cutoff relay was disturbed....on an 83 should have 4 wires...2 Red/White, 1 Black/yellow, 1 Skyblue. It'll be up there with all the other relays above headlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share #12 Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks i will check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #13 Posted April 13, 2014 the sky blue wire on the relay is reading point 0.8 volts. when the start button is pushed in it jumps to .9 volts Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #14 Posted April 13, 2014 But is the battery voltage normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #15 Posted April 13, 2014 I'm getting 11.8 volts at the battery Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #16 Posted April 13, 2014 okay...key on....in neutral test both R/W wires at relay with it plugged in...should both have battery voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #17 Posted April 13, 2014 ok the keys on its in neutral and I'm not getting any power to the red wires Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #18 Posted April 13, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/3adune2a.jpg also tested the large red wire that goes up towards the kill switch start button and I'm getting 11.6 volts at the wires to the start button Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #19 Posted April 13, 2014 Are you getting battery voltage on both R/W wires to the Kill switch....or just on one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #20 Posted April 13, 2014 yes I have 3 red wires 1 large red with yellow stripe and two smaller reds with a white stripe all getting 11.8 volts Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #21 Posted April 13, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/adazune8.jpg Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #22 Posted April 13, 2014 sending a PM to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #23 Posted April 13, 2014 just tested the relay again and now I'm getting power to one red wire Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cachris Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share #24 Posted April 13, 2014 can I swap relays out just to test http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/vugaba3u.jpg Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted April 13, 2014 Share #25 Posted April 13, 2014 you need power on both R/W at the relay to be able to crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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