dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Share #1 Posted September 7, 2013 Need a little guidance please. After replacing the diaphragms and adj a/f screws I was ready to sync when I noticed I had no headlight or meter lights after the the fuse box upgrade. Checked for power at the fuse and is good, wired headlight direct to bat... it's ok, cleaned starter switch and checked for continuity of the R/Y wire to the connector...no break it's good but still no light. Signal and tail circuits work fine, engine starts and idles. Checked the connector at the CMU....looks very clean. Headlight icon lit and the only dash lite working is the turn indicators and neutral lite. Temp and charge gauge works. Where do I go now. Is the issue with the CMU or RLU. I thought voltage passed through the CMU prior to the RLU if a draw was detected. HELP! jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 7, 2013 Share #2 Posted September 7, 2013 Need a little guidance please. After replacing the diaphragms and adj a/f screws I was ready to sync when I noticed I had no headlight or meter lights after the the fuse box upgrade. Checked for power at the fuse and is good, wired headlight direct to bat... it's ok, cleaned starter switch and checked for continuity of the R/Y wire to the connector...no break it's good but still no light. Signal and tail circuits work fine, engine starts and idles. Checked the connector at the CMU....looks very clean. Headlight icon lit and the only dash lite working is the turn indicators and neutral lite. Temp and charge gauge works. Where do I go now. Is the issue with the CMU or RLU. I thought voltage passed through the CMU prior to the RLU if a draw was detected. HELP! jt RLU does not control the dash illumination. It does control the high beam and reserve light. The start switch however is common to the dash illumination and the RLU circuit. When starter is engaged this switch interrupts current to RLU and dash lights. There is a write up on 'correctly' cleaning it linked below, there are other options like contact cleaner, which may remove lettering on switch housing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted September 7, 2013 Thanks Gary.....the four contacts at the switch were bright and shiny. Haven't checked the hi/low selector yet. Will do that now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted September 7, 2013 Made the tests at the connector per PDU. All is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 7, 2013 Share #5 Posted September 7, 2013 Power goes to RLU from start switch. Then to hi lo switch. Then to CMU. Then to headlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #6 Posted September 7, 2013 Would that be the R/Y wire with power at the RLU connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 7, 2013 Share #7 Posted September 7, 2013 If meter lights are out, this indicates power supply issue. Meter lights are right off start switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 7, 2013 Share #8 Posted September 7, 2013 Link below to simplified schematics http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20TK%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf In a bar watching ohio state game. Hard to see schematic on phone. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #9 Posted September 7, 2013 My kind of guy! I'll have a look...not much on schematics. If I get stuck I'll call. Installed a crank breather while I was in the area and just finishing up on the dimmer switch. No problems I could see. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #10 Posted September 7, 2013 Gary...do you know how many grounds (physical grounds) for cleaning purposes there are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted September 7, 2013 Gary just completed clutch side and again starter side tests as illustrated in your PDUs...all is good????? You do nice work...great illustations! Where do I go from here? Thanks for your time and help! jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_in_london Posted September 12, 2013 Share #12 Posted September 12, 2013 The starter button is releasing completely ? As well as operating the starter solenoid it also cuts the headlight and sometimes if it is sticky the dip beam stays cut. Probably not that (I'm not sure it kills the dash light), but it costs nothing and only takes a few seconds to check . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 17, 2013 Share #13 Posted September 17, 2013 Not sure about illumination lights but when I upgraded the fuse box I blew the fuse to headlight behind/under headlight. (Not in fuse box) I don't know if all bikes have it :confused24:or mine is just "special" but I took headlight out and it was the main hot wire to headlight. (Search cms/display issues and I have a pic on last post) or its in first 10-15 post in 1st generation talk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share #14 Posted October 7, 2013 Guys....An update to the lighting issues which have been resolved. The meter lites problem was due to excessive crimping at the wire connector to the R/W wire at new fuse block....I somehow crimped the wire connector to a point it cut the wire found only after a continuity test of the wire. As for the headlight problem...I replaced the RLU which was not the issue and then proceeded to re-solder connections in the CPU. I have read many posts about this and decided to give it a try. Well it does require a lil skill because my joints looked terrible and way too much solder...BUT it solved the headlight issue and ALL those pesty warning icons I thought were due to sticky or dirty sensors. I've put up with that blinking red lite for so long....what a pleasure to ride without it!! Thanks everyone for your help on this one. Couldn't have done it without you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebrrg3rd Posted October 7, 2013 Share #15 Posted October 7, 2013 As long as the solder isn't touching another contact point, and it's solid, who cares what it looks like. I'd hate to show off mine, but that they work is all that matters. And yes, as useful as it is to have that blinking warning light when it's needed, it's nice to have it off. -Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwthompson Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share #16 Posted October 7, 2013 Agreed...Andrew I also ride an '83 White Venture. Just luv it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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