Buzzing instead of starting

[Dave77459]

Sunday I stopped for gas, and the bike wouldn't start with a buzzing noise. A push start later, and I was home. Of course, it started right up. This morning, I just got buzzing again.

 

I've heard variously that it could be the starter solenoid or the starter relay. I just can't interpret the manual and the posts here as to where these are? Under the battery?

 

Can someone kindly point me where it is? What does it look like?

 

Dave

[twigg]

They are the same thing.

 

Follow the heavy cable coming from the battery positive, it leads right to the starter solenoid. On the 1st Gen it is right next to the battery.

[Yammer Dan]

Clean connections.

[Dave77459]

They are the same thing.

 

Follow the heavy cable coming from the battery positive, it leads right to the starter solenoid. On the 1st Gen it is right next to the battery.

 

Thanks. I wondered if they were the same. Since IIRC the positive lead heads down, I guess I am taking out the battery.

 

Clean connections.

 

First on my list of things to do, now that I know where they are. I did a little wiggling of cables when I routed some accessories this weekend, so it is very possible I need a good clean job.

 

Dave

[Vance]

If you have a DC voltmeter an easy check to make is the battery voltage.

[Dave77459]

If you have a DC voltmeter an easy check to make is the battery voltage.

Just put the leads across the battery terminals? Are you coming to the MD this weekend?

 

Dave

[LilBeaver]

I would also double check to make sure all of the connections are tight. Using a small flathead screwdriver to lightly tweak some of the contacts in the connectors will help make sure that you get a good connection within these connectors.

 

Just put the leads across the battery terminals? Are you coming to the MD this weekend?

 

Dave

 

 

To check the battery use the voltmeter across the terminals with the bike in the 'off' position first, then 'on' and lastly in the 'on' position while depressing the starter button. This is a reasonable way to do a load test on your own battery.

 

All readings should be above ~9.5V. In the off position it should definitely be above 11.5V.

----

One other connection to check that I suspect is commonly overlooked is the main fuse connection. On my RSV it is behind the cover that is behind the passenger's left floorboard cover (next to where their ankle would be). I had my connection come loose enough to cause some problems with my bike and it was strange that my bike would run fine but would occasionally give me weird electrical blips including funny noises on attempted starting.

 

Hope whatever your problem is you are able to determine it quickly, conclusively and inexpensively!

[Dave77459]

I would also double check to make sure all of the connections are tight. Using a small flathead screwdriver to lightly tweak some of the contacts in the connectors will help make sure that you get a good connection within these connectors.

 

 

 

 

To check the battery use the voltmeter across the terminals with the bike in the 'off' position first, then 'on' and lastly in the 'on' position while depressing the starter button. This is a reasonable way to do a load test on your own battery.

 

All readings should be above ~9.5V. In the off position it should definitely be above 11.5V.

----

One other connection to check that I suspect is commonly overlooked is the main fuse connection. On my RSV it is behind the cover that is behind the passenger's left floorboard cover (next to where their ankle would be). I had my connection come loose enough to cause some problems with my bike and it was strange that my bike would run fine but would occasionally give me weird electrical blips including funny noises on attempted starting.

 

Hope whatever your problem is you are able to determine it quickly, conclusively and inexpensively!

 

Thanks Rick! Great ideas, and thanks for the how-to!

 

 

Dave

 

 

 

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

[BuddyRich]

I have been having a somewhat similar problem but mine always starts after letting go of the switch for a couple of seconds and hitting it again . Not buzzing but turning over like an old chevy... Real slooooow.. The odyssey battery is only five years old. It only does it when its hot.

[RSTDdog]

Dave,

 

I think the Solenoid is behind the right side battery cover. Don't think you need to pull the battery to get to it.

 

DOn't forget to check your ground wire at the battery and at the engine block. Also the postive wire connection to the starter. They had to remove the ground to the block and positive to starter to remove your engine for repairs. If it is loose there ( or loose connection anywhere) you will get voltage drop and buzz at the solenoid.

 

Probably should go throug the SM section on engine removal, and investigate tighten any steps associated with disconnecting electrical components.

 

RSTDdog

[Dave77459]

Dave,

 

I think the Solenoid is behind the right side battery cover. Don't think you need to pull the battery to get to it.

 

DOn't forget to check your ground wire at the battery and at the engine block. Also the postive wire connection to the starter. They had to remove the ground to the block and positive to starter to remove your engine for repairs. If it is loose there ( or loose connection anywhere) you will get voltage drop and buzz at the solenoid.

 

Probably should go throug the SM section on engine removal, and investigate tighten any steps associated with disconnecting electrical components.

 

RSTDdog

 

Thanks. I'll take off the side cover to see if I spy the positive coming down. Great idea on the SM section on engine removal. They didn't hook up the AIS properly when they assembled her, so something else might be amiss.

 

One thing I noticed is that one of the six leads on my auxiliary fuse block is loose. I had one open spot, and went to connect my LEDs to it, and I get intermittent power when I jiggle. Usually no, sometimes yes. I pulled the fuse and let it be. Could that be causing this problem?

 

The other change I did was run power from the white accessory power lead to the Kuryakyn handlebar reservoir cover switches. The switches just energize relays, and they work even when I am in a buzzing period. (First thing I do is turn off the passing lamps using this switch, and try again. Then I turn on the lamps to see how bright they are--still very bright, so the battery is fine.) I don't think using the white accessory plug should cause problems, but it is the major change in the past week.

 

Finally, she has been experiencing a battery drain for a few months, now that I think of it. So current is running somewhere. I thought it was my LED lights (they are computerized, so maybe it is drawing power), but perhaps there is something else?

 

Any of these additional thoughts ring bells with anyone?

 

Dave

[LilBeaver]

[...]

One thing I noticed is that one of the six leads on my auxiliary fuse block is loose. I had one open spot, and went to connect my LEDs to it, and I get intermittent power when I jiggle. Usually no, sometimes yes. I pulled the fuse and let it be. Could that be causing this problem?

[...]

Could you please clarify what you mean when you say that you get "intermittent power when you jiggle" (I'll save the wise guy comment about jiggling for some other time); specifically do you mean (1) you get intermittent power to the LEDs (and ONLY the LEDs) that are connected to that part of the fuse box (2) that you have intermittent power to the rest of your bike? (3) something else all together?

 

[...]

The other change I did was run power from the white accessory power lead to the Kuryakyn handlebar reservoir cover switches. The switches just energize relays, and they work even when I am in a buzzing period. (First thing I do is turn off the passing lamps using this switch, and try again. Then I turn on the lamps to see how bright they are--still very bright, so the battery is fine.) I don't think using the white accessory plug should cause problems, but it is the major change in the past week.

 

[...]

 

I too do not see any reason that using that accessory plug to trigger the relays (provided that they are, in fact, setup properly for that) would cause any problems (well any that wouldn't pop the 5amp fuse anyways) UNLESS somehow you have managed to produce some sort of goofy short between the starting circuit and this set of wiring (very unlikely, in my opinion).

 

[...]

Finally, she has been experiencing a battery drain for a few months, now that I think of it. So current is running somewhere. I thought it was my LED lights (they are computerized, so maybe it is drawing power), but perhaps there is something else?

 

[...]

 

The way that I find to be the easiest for determining where drain is occurring is to take an ammeter and go through your fusebox(es) and check each fuse socket for current while the key is in the off position (simply touch the positive and negative leads to opposite contacts where the fuse blades go). The ONLY one that should draw ANYTHING at all is the 'back-up' fuse for your reverse gears (trip odometer too) and it should be on the order of milli-amps. Everything else (unless you have re-wired otherwise) should be zero (Definitely zero, not mili-amps, zero).

One final check is to compare the reading from the 'back-up' fuse socket to the reading that you get by putting your ammeter in line between the positive lead from the battery and the battery's positive terminal (again with the ignition in the OFF position). I suppose some might suggest using the negative lead for "electrical safety" sake but as long as you are careful you ought to be fine. This reading should be within a few mili-amps (well SHOULD be exactly the same, but these are not theoretical systems). If they match up then your problem must be with your battery.

 

Sorry this is a little scattered, I got interrupted a few times while writing it... I hope it makes sense.

[Dave77459]

Could you please clarify what you mean when you say that you get "intermittent power when you jiggle" (I'll save the wise guy comment about jiggling for some other time); specifically do you mean (1) you get intermittent power to the LEDs (and ONLY the LEDs) that are connected to that part of the fuse box (2) that you have intermittent power to the rest of your bike? (3) something else all together?

 

If I hook up the LED computer to the fuse block, I get no power. However, if I jiggle the wire/post, I hear the LED computer beep. None of the other posts and devices connected to them are seemingly impacted. It's like a connection inside the fuse box are loose or broken.

 

I too do not see any reason that using that accessory plug to trigger the relays (provided that they are, in fact, setup properly for that) would cause any problems (well any that wouldn't pop the 5amp fuse anyways) UNLESS somehow you have managed to produce some sort of goofy short between the starting circuit and this set of wiring (very unlikely, in my opinion).

 

I am apparently more skilled at screwing up systems than I thought, so I wouldn't put it past me.

 

The way that I find to be the easiest for determining where drain is occurring is to take an ammeter and go through your fusebox(es) and check each fuse socket for current while the key is in the off position (simply touch the positive and negative leads to opposite contacts where the fuse blades go). The ONLY one that should draw ANYTHING at all is the 'back-up' fuse for your reverse gears (trip odometer too) and it should be on the order of milli-amps. Everything else (unless you have re-wired otherwise) should be zero (Definitely zero, not mili-amps, zero).

One final check is to compare the reading from the 'back-up' fuse socket to the reading that you get by putting your ammeter in line between the positive lead from the battery and the battery's positive terminal (again with the ignition in the OFF position). I suppose some might suggest using the negative lead for "electrical safety" sake but as long as you are careful you ought to be fine. This reading should be within a few mili-amps (well SHOULD be exactly the same, but these are not theoretical systems). If they match up then your problem must be with your battery.

 

Sorry this is a little scattered, I got interrupted a few times while writing it... I hope it makes sense.

 

Thank you for the HOW-TO. I'd wondered how to investigate this. I appreciate your effort!

 

Dave

[Dave77459]

As suggested, I followed the positive lead to, but couldn't see where it went without pulling the battery. I found what I believe to be the starter relay behind the left plastic panel. I removed the passenger floorboards and the plastic plate and looked at it with much befuddlement. "I see it... now what?"

 

Anyways, after trying the battery many times playing Marco/Polo with the relay, the battery was tuckered out. I put it on the charger for a little bit, then tried again. The engine turned over, then the battery was dead. That was quick!

 

Charging a bit more, I pulled the headlamp fuse so there wouldn't be as big a drain during starting. She started right up! I mean, fast! I put the fuse back in after letting her run for a minute to charge, and the relay clicked again.

 

That's when I remembered what I did Friday. I'd opened the headlamp bucket where the passing lamp relay lives, so as to connect the kuryakyn master cylinder switch rather than energizing the relay with the front running lights. When I put the headlamp back in, I left a couple wires out of the protective wrap because I didn't remember them being part of the bundle. I wrapped them in and put the battery back on charge while I had dinner.

 

Of course, she started right up when I tried after dinner.

 

My working theory is that while riding Sunday morning, the unbundled wires somehow began to short or whatever. It drained the battery quickly. Riding home, it was charged, and was still when I tried to start her right after getting home. But then they drained the battery.

 

I'm hoping she will start again in the morning, because it's "ride your girlfriend to work day." This is primo riding weather.

 

If she does run, I'll spend our SE Texas Maintenance Day this Saturday tracking down if there is a battery leak somewhere. I'm expecting there is.

 

Anyways, thanks for the help, and I'll be back if I have more questions or issues.

 

Dave