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Radio, Speakers and Amp install on a 1st Gen


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I got a wild idea with all this talk of amps and radios to change out the radio head unit. I had one with a AM/FM, CD player, Sirius Satellite radio and Aux input. So I carefully removed all the stock stuff and commenced to installing and rewiring for a modern head unit.

While I had everything strewn all over the garage I decided to install an amp as well and the requisite control modules for the Sirius Sat radio and what the heck might as well get new speakers too.

So here I sit, tired but happy to report the sound system is wired. Now all I need to do is mount the head unit and button everything up. It should be illegal to have this much fun on a weekday :cool10:

System now consists of:

Kenwood Head Unit AM/FM/CD/SAT/AUX

Kenwood Amp 2 Channel 350W

Pioneer Speakers 2-Way 120W

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I'm interested to find out what this sounds like.. Are the speakers water resistant?

 

I'm also wondering if and AMP could be added to the stock system??

 

No the speakers are not waterproof but the cost point was such that I can replace if they get damaged from water. I do not make a habit of riding in the rain (anymore) and the bike is garaged when I am not on it riding.

 

The short answer is, yes an amp can be added to any system. Now the caveat, as long as the amp accepts speaker level inputs. However, on most amps, the quality of output is only as good as its inputs. Basically the amp boosts whatever it gets in; with some noise filtering which usually means sound attentuation and the expense of music fidelity as clipping of the upper and lower frequencies as a result of the noise filtering.

 

I came to the realization I needed a new head unit because the stock one was putting out a very "dirty" signal therefore no speaker or amp combo alone would overcome that deficit.

 

Much like computer programming "Garbage In Garbage Out"

 

You will find most quality radio head units have the capacity to route the signal to the amp via RCA outputs and can have 2, 4 or 6 channels of output. Correspondingly amps can have multiple channels of inputs that accept the RCA inputs from the head unit. So for my application I have a head unit with 4 channels but two are reserved for subwoofer frequency so I am only using the front two channels coupled to the two channel amp.

 

This is what I know regarding car audio (which I adapted for motorcycle use). Others can chime in on motorcycle specific amps and such.

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If you install an aftermarket stereo can you save any of the handlebar controls?

Does the headset/intercom still work?

 

I probably do 80% of my riding 2 up

 

 

You are welcome to everything I have; just come pick it up... oh wait that might be a heck of a ride two up or otherwise. :rotf:

 

If I ever go back to needing an intercom/cb I will install a newer one. Just let me know what you want.

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OK the project is done and the new system sounds great. The process took a little longer because I changed my mind on mounting methods at least three time :confused: and in all fairness mounting was the most time intensive as the wiring was straight forward.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00807.jpg

 

Man what a mess of wires and stuff. I promise this will go back together; hopefully. It is worth noting that I rerouted the antenna cable as it originally went to the CB and then had a short antenna cable to the left faring.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00808.jpg

 

This shows where I mounted the Satellite Radio interface module. This is the module that the satellite radio antenna plugs into and then into the radio. In the previous picture it is the L-shaped DIN-looking plug

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00809.jpg

 

This where all the sound signals get a little boost. I think I am pushing about 100W to each speaker at full tilt; good thing they are rated for 120W peak. Actually for confortable cruising listening I will probably only be pushing 10 - 20W max. I am still fitting the amp cover; what do you mean the trunk isn't a square box.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00812.jpg

 

I had these nifty little distro blocks lying around (that and I could not put anything else on the battery screws) so I decided to put them to use. The sides correspond with the positive and negative of the battery. The main feed and all connections made to the postive distro block are fused. Additionally, I fabricated a plastic cover for the positive distro block to keep them stray Boomer Pygmies in check.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00815.jpg

 

Finally settled on using the thickest Plexigalss I could find to mount the radio to and used the stock frame as a template for the holes. Essentially the Plexiglass was sandwiched between the black upper radio fairing and the locking frame.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00819.jpg

 

Completed a side view of the fairing, plexiglass, frame and cover.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/DSC00817.jpg

 

Top view of the mounting arrangement.

 

Below is the a schematic I worked up to depict the wiring involved. Please note all power and grounds are routed on the leftside of the bike and signal wires are routed on the right side of the bike. This is to reduce interference and allows for a smaller bundle of wires to tuck up out of the way. Also, the amp is grounded to the frame of the bike and not the negative terminal of the battery. This keeps the ground path for the amp short and reduces the liklihood of engine whine.

 

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p583/mikez06allen/Schematic.jpg

Edited by MikeZ06Allen
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