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How to outsmart the Yamaha folk?


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Alright all you smartypants folks- let's try this one on for size.

 

Has anybody tried modifying the speedo sensor so that cruise will work above 80mph? I understand the basic principle of reed switches and etc, but the specifics of it would need to be known in order to work a go-around for the 80mph inhibit limit. Would it be as simple as jumping across the contacts like the other CMU jumpers? How does the cruise module KNOW when you're going 80+?

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The reed switch acts as a speed sensor for both the cruise control and the turn signal self canceling unit.

More than likely, hard coded inside the cruise control electronic module is some code that inhibits the system above 80 or below 30 mph.

I don't think there is anything external to the module that could be done. The reed switch has to be in loop to sense speed, any variation of its output, such as 5 mph decrease, then shuts system down.

If you do want to cruise at that speed, a throttle locker might be an easier alternative.

Gary

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  • 8 months later...

Well dadgummit- I was fixing an oversight with respect to my upgraded dash lighting project when I inadvertently pulled one of the leads off this speed sensor. I managed to poorly solder it back on (for now), but I'm not very confident it's going to stay. Then I got to thinking about this thread again. Wonder what would happen if a guy literally just bypassed the sensor and spliced those 2 leads together? If I had a spare I'd zip it together and test for us.

Does anybody have a spare cluster (harness) that they'd be willing to let me do a little investigative testing with? All I would need is this connector snipped off with as much wire as you can provide. :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo

Edited by Keemez
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Well dadgummit- I was fixing an oversight with respect to my upgraded dash lighting project when I inadvertently pulled one of the leads off this speed sensor. I managed to poorly solder it back on (for now), but I'm not very confident it's going to stay. Then I got to thinking about this thread again. Wonder what would happen if a guy literally just bypassed the sensor and spliced those 2 leads together? If I had a spare I'd zip it together and test for us.

Does anybody have a spare cluster (harness) that they'd be willing to let me do a little investigative testing with? All I would need is this connector snipped off with as much wire as you can provide. :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo

 

 

Nope, won't work. You would be bypassing the very thing that picks up the signal that sends the signal to maintain a set speed.

RandyA

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During testing of signal cancel design, I placed a switch across reed, and actuated by hand to simulate distance.

It worked, but required about 600 switches during about 5 minutes. Wore me out.

 

Anyway this tells me that signal cancel counts total pulses=distance

 

I would guess that cruise counts pulses per second=speed, and software internal cruise module controls max-min limits

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During testing of signal cancel design, I placed a switch across reed, and actuated by hand to simulate distance.

It worked, but required about 600 switches during about 5 minutes. Wore me out.

 

Anyway this tells me that signal cancel counts total pulses=distance

 

I would guess that cruise counts pulses per second=speed, and software internal cruise module controls max-min limits

 

This theory does make sense, but I was curious if it was as simple as seeing "some" sort of signal and that being good enough. Probably not. I think my best bet is hoping that my poor solder job holds together.

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Well dadgummit- I was fixing an oversight with respect to my upgraded dash lighting project when I inadvertently pulled one of the leads off this speed sensor. I managed to poorly solder it back on (for now), but I'm not very confident it's going to stay.

 

It does seem to be working (for now). Whew!

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