pickinfred Posted January 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 11, 2011 I'm going to lower the front of my 07 RSV. I have read...I think .....all/most of the posts on this mod., but have not found the answer to a couple of questions. With the small clearance between the top of the fork and the wiring/cables that are attached to the handlebars..(1/2"-3/4") Just don't seem wise to move the wiring and cable mounting. (1) Do I need to buy the 1 1/2" Baron Handlebar Risers?....If yes.... (2) Will there be clearance problems between the risers and the inner flairing? Looks pretty close. Thanks in advance for all the help...."GREAT GROUP" Freddie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMSgt Posted January 11, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 11, 2011 Freddie I just completed this mod. There is clearence in the fairing for the forks. I didn't have to change anything as far as cables or wires. I already had 1 1/2" risers on my bars but I don't think there would be a problem with the stock risers and clearence. I took the complete fairing off and it made the job a snapp. I measured from the top of the bottom tripple tree clamp and it was 8 1/2" to the top of the fork tube, not counting the cap on top. I pushed the fork tubes up to 9 1/2" which shortened my fork by 1". Lots of riders have have the risers in on their handle bar clamps. They are a tight fit but nothing that isn't workable. This really is an easy mob. Hope you have a jack it will make the job a whole lot easier. Good luck and have fun. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted January 11, 2011 Share #3 Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) I'm going to lower the front of my 07 RSV(Probably can be done solo, but extra hands make it a lot easier, and without a doubt you will need a jack!) . I have read...I think .....all/most of the posts on this mod., but have not found the answer to a couple of questions. With the small clearance between the top of the fork and the wiring/cables that are attached to the handlebars..(1/2"-3/4") Just don't seem wise to move the wiring and cable mounting. (1) Do I need to buy the 1 1/2" Baron Handlebar Risers?....If yes.... Only if you have short arms, lowering the front will not change the seat to grip distance (2) Will there be clearance problems between the risers and the inner flairing? Looks pretty close. Had no clearance problems at all. I put the 1-1/2" risers on my bike a while before we lowered the front. Thanks in advance for all the help...."GREAT GROUP" Freddie There is a trick to putting the risers on the bike. (And it is easier with a second pair of hands!) After you remove the hold down caps pull the bars back just enough to slide the risers in from the side. DO NOT move the handlebars out of the way, put the risers on and then try to pull the handle bars back enough to come over the top of the risers! The cables are not that long. Some will tell you they had trouble with the throttle cable(s) binding, after riser install. I guess I was lucky, 'cause I had no problems at all. Oh, the risers WILL hit the chrome or black fuel cap cover by the ignition switch. The black ones will deform enough so as not to be a problem. The chrome ones are stiffer and will not give. I have the chrome on on my bike and chose to modify mine. I have a picture some where and if I can find it I'll add it to this post later. Edited January 11, 2011 by wes0778 forgot something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickinfred Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share #4 Posted January 11, 2011 Kent and Walter....."Thanks"...I owe you! I have a bike jack, lifting eye in the ceiling, tools and extra hands if needed. I was hoping that someone who has done the mod. would be able to recommend a riser that would allow the forks to protude the 1" above the top of the triple tree without damage to the wiring, brake lines and etc., and also avoid the risers from contacting the switch cover as Walter stated. I was pretty sure some type of riser was needed, if all RSVs are the same....."lets hope they are". I was going to include these two pics yesterday, but wasn't smart enough. With grandson by my side, hopefully they make it today......"close clearance" .... Freddie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted January 11, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 11, 2011 Kent and Walter....."Thanks"...I owe you! I have a bike jack, lifting eye in the ceiling, tools and extra hands if needed. I was hoping that someone who has done the mod. would be able to recommend a riser that would allow the forks to protude the 1" above the top of the triple tree without damage to the wiring, brake lines and etc., and also avoid the risers from contacting the switch cover as Walter stated. I was pretty sure some type of riser was needed, if all RSVs are the same....."lets hope they are". I was going to include these two pics yesterday, but wasn't smart enough. With grandson by my side, hopefully they make it today......"close clearance" .... Freddie Here's how I had to "adjust" mine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 18, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Confused... How would sliding your fork tubes up one inch make any difference at all with the clearence of the top caps of the risers and your ignition switch (unless you also put taller risers on). Now sliding the fork tubes up one inch may create a clearence issue between lower portion of handlebar and the top of the fork but since they are connected it shouldn't matter provided the air valve is obtainable. Edited January 18, 2011 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PlaneCrazy Posted January 18, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 18, 2011 Confused... How would sliding your fork tubes up one inch make any difference at all with the clearence of the top caps of the risers and your ignition switch (unless you also put taller risers ones on). Now sliding the fork tubes up one inch may create a clearence issue between lower portion of handlebar and the top of the fork but since they are connected it shouldn't matter provided the air valve is obtainable. I'm thinking that a lot of people got an aftermarket set of risers to move the handlebars up and back a bit so that they wouldn't have any clearance issues with lowering the front. However, with the new risers, there is the possibility of a clearance issue with the ignition switch housing when you turn lock to lock. I've looked at this mod several times and I am of the same opinion as the OP.. I'm concerned with the clearance between the tops of the forks and the wire/cable bundles attached to the handlebars. On my bike, there's less then 1/2" clearance there and the bundles are held in place by a clamp that is not movable. It's too bad the design of the forks on this bike don't allow an easy spring and spacer mod like many other types of forks. On my Shadows, I dropped progressive springs in there and cut the spacers down to lower the bike's front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 18, 2011 Share #8 Posted January 18, 2011 I made and installed the leveling links on my 2007 RSMV but is a little to high for me. Love the way it handels but with my 29 inch inseam it's a bit unnerving especially trying to push the bike backwards on my toes and I hate heeled boots. Impossible in gravel. Will take leveling links off and raise the forks about 1/2 to 3/4 in the triple clamps as thats about all the room I have. I can get rid of that cable bracket and use a black zip strip if necessary. Don't need to buy risers because of clearence problems and because handelbars are perfect where they are now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 18, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 18, 2011 PlaneCrazy, looks like the cable clamp(s) on both sides can be unsnapped from chrome rivet on handlebar, then zip tied. I measured 1/2"-3/4" clearance (maybe more) with stock risers. May go to Advance Auto or NAPA for 1-2" valve stem extenders. Might be able to point the valve stems more parallel to handlebars for more clearance? If not, thats about all I will be able to raise as you won't be able to get to end of valve stem. Planning on doing mine tomorrow. Wait a second... If I have to take the top triple clamp off, wont I need a steering head wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted January 19, 2011 Share #10 Posted January 19, 2011 Wait a second... If I have to take the top triple clamp off, wont I need a steering head wrench? Nope, just need to take the chrome nut off, then loosen the socket head screws clamping the the forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 19, 2011 Share #11 Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Thanks wes0778! When I was looking at it this afternoon I thougt that I might have to remove the top triple clamp just to get those chrome fork covers off of the lower triple clamps. Edited January 19, 2011 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PlaneCrazy Posted January 19, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 19, 2011 Well, my bike is hibernating in it's little shed in the back yard with a foot of snow around it, so I won't be doing any more mods until the spring. I put lowering links on it just before storing it while i had a busted ankle, so I haven't even been able to ride it yet with the baron's rear lowering kit on. If the steering seems more touchy at slow speeds, I'll probably try the fork trick. I'm supposed to do an advanced rider's course in the spring and some road captain training for my MC club, so I have to make sure the RSV is good to go for slow speed maneuvers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 19, 2011 Share #13 Posted January 19, 2011 Let's hope it's an early spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaking Posted January 19, 2011 Share #14 Posted January 19, 2011 Well, my bike is hibernating in it's little shed in the back yard with a foot of snow around it, so I won't be doing any more mods until the spring. I put lowering links on it just before storing it while i had a busted ankle, so I haven't even been able to ride it yet with the baron's rear lowering kit on. If the steering seems more touchy at slow speeds, I'll probably try the fork trick. I'm supposed to do an advanced rider's course in the spring and some road captain training for my MC club, so I have to make sure the RSV is good to go for slow speed maneuvers. Yeah, lowering the REAR of the bike is the wrong thing to do.. you needed to raise it to get improved handling in slow mode.. the "leveling links" people rave about raise the rear of the bike to make it ride better.. So if you remove your rear lowering kit and return it to stock then lower your front you'll achieve the same thing but with a lowered bike that will handle much better.. I did two advanced rider courses with my 2006 Midnight but couldn't finish the course because for some ODD reason I keep burning out my clutch.. no joke.. I'm careful not to rev it too high on the clutch but it's a 900 lbs bike with a erhmm big boned lad on it.. it's hard on the clutch... But I'll tell ya.. the course was WORTH a clutch rebuilt for what I learned and got confident on techniques and such.. Let me know if your bike survives the course.. it should be the same course we run out here in NS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PlaneCrazy Posted January 19, 2011 Share #15 Posted January 19, 2011 Yeah, lowering the REAR of the bike is the wrong thing to do.. you needed to raise it to get improved handling in slow mode.. the "leveling links" people rave about raise the rear of the bike to make it ride better.. So if you remove your rear lowering kit and return it to stock then lower your front you'll achieve the same thing but with a lowered bike that will handle much better.. I did two advanced rider courses with my 2006 Midnight but couldn't finish the course because for some ODD reason I keep burning out my clutch.. no joke.. I'm careful not to rev it too high on the clutch but it's a 900 lbs bike with a erhmm big boned lad on it.. it's hard on the clutch... But I'll tell ya.. the course was WORTH a clutch rebuilt for what I learned and got confident on techniques and such.. Let me know if your bike survives the course.. it should be the same course we run out here in NS Well, I really had no choice about the lowering kit. I couldn't flat foot the bike stock and that was giving me issues when stopped on roads with grades to one side or the other and also a real PITA when parking on any uneven areas and you had to try and back the beast out. I severely busted my ankle and dislocated my knee last summer so I needed the bike lower to get my confidence back and be more in control. I'm also going to be modifying the seat this winter, so I am sure the bike will be much easier for me to handle now. I'm not too worried about the steering. It's only at really slow speeds that it wants to lock the handlebars and I can brute force over come that no problem... My last bike just had big beach bars and it was much easier to maneuver in a parking lot. Worst case scenario is I just do the ERC and RC courses on my VLX instead. I can turn that thing around in a bike length Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaking Posted January 19, 2011 Share #16 Posted January 19, 2011 Ah understood.. kinda wondering is all... I'd been riding since a kid and have honestly never dropped a bike in 30-odd years... until I got this beast and she's gone down at least 6 times.. only once in traffic though.. the rest of the time when stopped and finding myself on the high side of things.. oops.. crump... Good thing those crash bars catch the bike nicely.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 20, 2011 Share #17 Posted January 20, 2011 Just got done lowering my 2007 RSMV. Heres some measurements you may be interested in: --------------------------------------------------------------------------at split -----------------------------------bottom of-------back-------front-------center -----------------------------------receicver-------frame-------frame------cowling With leveling links------------------------(12")------(9")--------(8 3/4")-----(7 3/4") With leveling links and lowered front end--(12")-------(8 1/2")----(8 1/4")----(7 1/4") Lowered front end no leveling links-------(11 1/4")----(8 1/4")----(8 1/8")----(7") with bike in upright position without weight : Bottom of receiver - measured in rear of bike Back frame - measured at rear most portion of straight frame Front frame - measured at foward most portion of straight frame Split center cowling - measured at lowest point of cowling at split Also from top of the bottom triple clamp it is exactly 8 1/2" to top of fork stock when bike is lowered 1 inch it should be 9 1/2" to top of fork when modified. Took lower cable keepers off handlebars. Reinstalled handelbars to risers and left and right levers at (punch marks) provided in handlebars. When forks were loose from top and bottom triple clamps, rotated the left fork valve to the 8:30 position and the right fork valve to the 3:30 position. This allows unrestricted access to air valves without having to purchase risers for the handlebars. More to come as I remember it... Time for a BUD LIGHT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now