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barnett clutch plate help


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i have a quick question for someone...i ordered the barnett kit (all friction discs, steel discs, and pressure plate w/ springs) and it arrived yesterday. I plan on tackling my clutch today or tomorrow but everything i read mentions to "line up the grooves at 11 oclock and 5 oclock". The problem i am having is...the barnett friction discs have no grooves on any of the tabs.

 

I dont want to get the basket opened up only to realize i have the wrong discs. Can someone with some knowledge help me out here. Since i am replacing the pressure plate does it no longer matter about the grooves? Thank you all for your input.

 

-Motor

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Do mind me asking where you purchased the Barnette plates and how much?

 

Is there anything 'special' about them over the OEM ones?

 

Good luck with the clutch change, it's quite simple, takes before removal photos to refer back to in case you get indecisive over something, it helps with the confidence.. (someone erhm told me that trick ;)

 

Did you get a new cover gasket as well?

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Thank you guys...i appreciate the help. I will definetely take some pics to refer back too.

 

Seaking...I called Barnett directly and ordered from them. The part numbers and their prices are:

 

306-90-20082 (8 friction and 7 steel plates) $164.70

SR-2 (pressure plate with springs and bolts) $137.50

I ordered the gasket from the dealer (12.99). The friction plates are the carbon fiber one. Other than the fact they are not notched, not too much visiible difference from the OEM's.

Other websites (Phat performance, Cruiser zone, Barons...etc) had better pricing but I really wanted to get this job done quickly so i paid a little more to the get the parts. (Ordered Monday at 8am....arrived tuesday at 1200) The Barnett plate kit comes with 7 regular discs and one "half disc". I did not account for this so i am going to be extra careful removing the wire so it can be re-used since i did not order a replacement one of those. If i screw that up then i'll be be waiting a week for the dealer to order me a new one. Hope this helps.

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I know what you mean by that little wire.. when I did the PCW mod, I put all those unused parts aside, just in case.. Well I put them aside so well that I could find them again when I went to OEM configuration lol.. groan..

 

But the little wire is a bit of a bear to remove if I remember correctly.. and don't quote me on this one, shouldn't be reused. I can't remember if it can be removed properly without damaging it. I remember having to cut mine out, but not sure if it can be removed safely without damaging it..

 

Hopefully a much more knowledgeable member here can correct me if I am wrong..

 

All I know is that when you go to put the new one in, you have to really make sure it seats into that tiny near invisible groove so that the other end of the wire will meet up with the little also near invisible hole lol.. That was my biggest stumbling block when I did it..

 

But you CAN do it.. patience and a lot perseverance..

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Thanks again guys...the responses have been helpful. Since I posted last I took the time to speak to Ruffy on the phone as well as call Barnett directly. The posts that were on this site all show factory (yamaha) plates being installed. To be honest, I would have installed factory plates if my dealer could have gotten them to me within a few days but they gave me a 5 to 7 day wait. I called Barnett and had my plates within 30 hours (I live 3 hours away from the factory and UPS took a day). I have a ride scheduled this weekend and needed to have my bike up and running so i chose to go with the Barnett plates. The price was very close to the OEM plates too.

 

SO...after speaking with Barnett, I was told that barnett Carbon Fiber plates do not have the "notches" that the factory plates have and there is no need for them with the Barnett plates. I will be starting this install in a few hours when i get off of work and will post after my successful completion and test ride is complete.

 

Thanks for the info on the clutch bleed after install. I had already planned on doing that since my clutch fluid is a little on the dark amber side but this now makes it a mandatory step in the process.

Edited by Motorpig
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Can anyone post the info or point towards the info how to properly bleed the clutch fluid?

 

I notice that after a while my fluid darkens and the level goes down in the sight glass..

 

What is the proper method to check fluid level, and what position should the bike be in when topping up the fluid? (on kickstand, handlbars turned har right left or leveled bike...?)

 

Thanks in advance.

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Seeker...try this..

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53963&highlight=bleeding+clutch

 

As for my clutch...well...got everything open, wire out without a problem, new plates in...pressure plate on...all purty and purple...reached for the gasket that i picked up from the dealer and....!$!#QVW@$%#!^%!%#!(%!)%!(^)!#)@~$()!%#(@!((%#!)%#!(%

 

The dealer gave me the wrong gasket...they gave me a gasket for cover #1 instead of Cover #3...so now i have to wait until either this afternoon or tomorrow to get the correct gasket and finish this job...i'll keep ya posted!

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Seeker...try this..

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53963&highlight=bleeding+clutch

 

As for my clutch...well...got everything open, wire out without a problem, new plates in...pressure plate on...all purty and purple...reached for the gasket that i picked up from the dealer and....!$!#QVW@$%#!^%!%#!(%!)%!(^)!#)@~$()!%#(@!((%#!)%#!(%

 

The dealer gave me the wrong gasket...they gave me a gasket for cover #1 instead of Cover #3...so now i have to wait until either this afternoon or tomorrow to get the correct gasket and finish this job...i'll keep ya posted!

 

Funny how I know exactly what those words mean.. as the very frikken same happened to me, and I had specifically told the numpty to ensure he was ordering the clutch cover gasket and nope, numpty ordered the same thing you got.. I went online and found an inexpensive source for gaskets and ordered a bunch.. plus the two the shop ordered for me for FREE because I missed a road trip for that numpty's mistake (I live in a geographical oddity of a place that is exactly always 2 weeks away from any motorcycle parts being ordered.. )

 

Thanks for the link.. =)

 

Cheers M8

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ur very welcome seeker. I will be doing the bleed tomorrow once i get my gasket on. I can do a photo post if you need me to...just let me know.

 

yeah if you could, it would be greater appreciated.. I read the 'how to' and got promptly lost.. blarg..

 

Cheers M8

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Clint, do what I did....go to your local auto parts store and buy a sheet of rubber impregnated gasket material and cut your own gasket. Cost me 4 bucks back then and I had plenty left over to fill several other gasket needs. Its also a thicker, stronger material than Yamahas gasket...just a thought....:smile5:

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yeah if you could, it would be greater appreciated.. I read the 'how to' and got promptly lost.. blarg..

 

Cheers M8

 

Absolutely...they will be posted by tonight...i want to put the clutch back together before i try to bleed anything.

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I was thinking about that ruffy..and truth be told, if the dang dealer doesnt call me real soon here i am going to do that. Any tricks with cutting your own?

 

Just lay it out on a flat surface and mark an outline around the cover with a thin marker.

Use a sharp X-acto knife to cut the outline out. Turn the cover over and lay the gasket over the mating sufrace of the cover and using a small ball peen hammer, lightly tap the bolt holes just to get an impression. Do not whack it, just a few gentle taps should get the needed impression. Remove the gasket and then cut out your holes. After checking the hole alignment, repeat the ball peen tapping around the inside perimiter of the cover to mark the inside (gently again), remove and trim the inside excess out. By leaving the inside piece in place it makes cutting the holes easier. Test fit and you should be good. Make sure there is no excess hanging into the inside peremiter and you can trim the outside flush once its mounted. Of course its easier if you have an old gasket to mark off, but with a little patience you will have a better gasket then the factory one. Cheaper too!!

:smile5:

 

OH yea, before you button up the clutch, make sure you get a full pull on the clutch lever.

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Absolutely...they will be posted by tonight...i want to put the clutch back together before i try to bleed anything.

 

Awesome! Looking forward to it! Got caught in the cold rain tonight coming home from the studio.. egads, it's almost snow out there and I don't when to say no to snow.. lol

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The clutch is done and working great. The CORRECT gasket from the dealer finally came in and she was put back together quickly. After i was done, i took her for a quick spin and found my release point was almost to the handgrip...i had read this might happen so i did a clutch fluid bleed and sure enough the release point was right where it should be!

 

I posted the Clutch Bleed instructions on the Forum as i said i would previously

 

 

Ruffy, thanks for the advice, the dealer came through but i will definetly keep that in mind for the future.

 

Slickster, i have heard great things about Skydoc's kit. I just wanted to go with Barnett. I have run Barnett clutches in my previous sportbikes and like their durability. Besides, Barnett's HQ is just a two hour ride away from me and i was able to get all the parts i needed the next day. Thank you for the well wishes!

 

Thank you to everyone who helped me out...I can now check this box off as this was my first clutch upgrade i didn't pay a dealer to do. If it weren't for this site and the great people here i would never have attempted it!

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