Another Oil Question

[Hart]

Sorry to start this again but found out my dealer has been using Spectro 10w40 for oil changes. So far I haven't had a problem with it and there's very little whine. Anyone else use it. I would like some thoughts or concerns with the oil since I can't find much info on the web about it. I'm thinking of changing to Rotella 15w40 and doing the changes myself.

Thanks in advance

John

[flb_78]

I run Rotella T 15W40 and a Purolater PL14610 filter. Bike has 98,000 miles on it now.

 

Rotella T is also JASO MA certified.

[Guest scarylarry]

My bike has 4 k miles on it, I started using castrol 20-50 MC oil.

Would it hurt for me to change weights now or better keep using the same weight?

[flb_78]

You can change weights with no problems.

 

The most important thing we can do about our oil is to stay away from "Energy Conserving" oils.

 

http://www.dansmc.com/starburst2.jpg

[straycatt]

I've been running Spectro off and on in various bikes for years.

It's good oil, somewhat pricey though. It just so happens that I have Rotella 15W40 in my Venture right now because it was on sale.

 

My Honda Spirit 11 absolutely hated Rotella. The motor made so much noise that I thought it was coming apart on the spot. I pulled that load of oil with only 300 miles on it.

The Venture seem to like the Rotella.

[Poledar]

I used that for years, and it seemed to smooth out the shifting in all my Ventures. Blended synthetic/petroleum is not cheap but neither is a rebuild!

Poledar:thumbsup:

[KiteSquid]

...my dealer has been using Spectro 10w40 for oil changes.

 

Which Spectro are they using?????

 

Spectro makes a full synthetic, parasynthetic and dyno oils in 10w40.......

 

 

Rotella has changed the names of its oils..... you want to buy Rotella T-6 to get the full syntethic.

[Hart]

Which Spectro are they using?????

 

Spectro makes a full synthetic, parasynthetic and dyno oils in 10w40.......

 

 

Rotella has changed the names of its oils..... you want to buy Rotella T-6 to get the full syntethic.

 

Their using Spectro 4 non synthetic.

Thanks everyone

[KiteSquid]

So, what oil are you giong to use??????

[harventure]

I used to sell sub-micron oil filtration systems about 20 years ago and I asked the head guy from an oil sample testing lab what kind of oil he used. He said "whatevers cheapest at K-Mart". He said there's almost no difference in how they lubricate and the best way to extend engine life was to change the oil more often. A car or truck oil filter (and I imagine motorcycles too) are 11-13 microns because they would have too much backpressure if they were any finer. The wear particles that do the most damage are 3 microns or less. Unless you install a sub-micron bypass filter, changing your oil more often is the best investment for engine longevity you can make. A guy at my local Yamaha dealer told me just make sure you use motorcycle oil or you'll have clutch problems.

[atlm]

He said "whatevers cheapest at K-Mart". He said there's almost no difference in how they lubricate and the best way to extend engine life was to change the oil more often.

 

For cars and trucks that run at normal temperatures and loads, I'd agree for the most part. For motorcycles with wet clutches, there are huge differences.

 

On most bikes with wet clutches, lower quality (motorcycle) oils result in clunky shifting while in motion, and extreme difficultly shifting into neutral at a stop. (we all know about the energy conserving non-motorcycle oils, so I'm not talking about those)

[KiteSquid]

harventure,

 

So were do I get a bypass filter for a motorcycle at a reasonable price, say under US$100.

[SilvrT]

For cars and trucks that run at normal temperatures and loads ... For motorcycles with wet clutches, there are huge differences

 

Just a dumb comment/question here but how can one infer that the bikes we ride (cruisers and tourers) are that much different than most cars and trucks as far as "normal temperatures and loads" is concerned?

 

For example, consider a Toyota Corolla ... maybe an older one with a 1600 cc engine moving a roughly 2000 lb car around (just a wild guess at the weight) versus an RSV of 850 or so lbs with a 1300 cc engine. Simple logic to me suggests the Toyota engine would be handling heavier loads and neither vehicle runs at temps much different than the other (car @ 195 - RSV @ 210)

 

Like I said "Just a dumb comment/question" but when a person makes a statement that, to me, doesn't make sense, I like to hear explanations.

[LilBeaver]

Just a dumb comment/question here but how can one infer that the bikes we ride (cruisers and tourers) are that much different than most cars and trucks as far as "normal temperatures and loads" is concerned?

 

For example, consider a Toyota Corolla ... maybe an older one with a 1600 cc engine moving a roughly 2000 lb car around (just a wild guess at the weight) versus an RSV of 850 or so lbs with a 1300 cc engine. Simple logic to me suggests the Toyota engine would be handling heavier loads and neither vehicle runs at temps much different than the other (car @ 195 - RSV @ 210)

 

Like I said "Just a dumb comment/question" but when a person makes a statement that, to me, doesn't make sense, I like to hear explanations.

 

Not a dumb question at all.

 

The key here is the 'wet clutch'. (The original poster can certainly comment to correct me if I am wrong on the interpretation of their comment).

Since the oil maintains the lubrication of the clutch, the oil itself is exposed to a much different type of wear - that is the sheering; than a typical car or light truck would under 'normal loads' would not experience since the clutch is not lubricated by the engine oil.

So, because of that - the normal car engine, or your 1.6L Corolla engine's oil, 'only' has to splash on the cylinder walls (and few other various places oil gets pumped/splashed) to keep the engine metal on metal parts protected.

[atlm]

Just a dumb comment/question here but how can one infer that the bikes we ride (cruisers and tourers) are that much different than most cars and trucks as far as "normal temperatures and loads" is concerned?

 

One doesn't infer the other. I just worded it unclearly. Let me clarify.

 

Regular automotive applications: probably any brand of modern oil at the weight recommended by the manufacturer is fine, if changed regularly.

 

Automotive race applications, with higher temperatures and higher than normal loads: synthetic oils could save your engine, since they have higher temperature tolerances and more consistent molecular structure, resulting in higher film strength.

 

Motorcycle engines with wet clutches: lower quality oils, in my experience, do not work as well with the wet clutch. This is especially evident on some bikes during stop and go traffic on hot days, when trying to find neutral when stopped or moving slowly. On every bike I've owned, I've switched to premium full synthetic oil and within about 300 miles of the oil change, they slip into neutral easily, and shift more smoothly. The change has never been immediate. It always takes a while, I'm assuming because of the time it takes for the new oil to saturate the clutch disks. Some bikes are much more sensitive than others.

 

[SilvrT]

Thanks LilBeaver and atlm ... now that I've re-read harventures post and put it all into context, makes perfect sense.

[Hart]

So, what oil are you giong to use??????

 

Not sure yet! I've never used synthetic in any vehicle i've owned be it 2 or 4 wheels. There's so many different opinions out there I might try both to see if theres much difference in shift or whine. Is there any problems going from one to the other. Gladly take suggestions on whitch one to try first. Probably try Rotella 15w40 dino and 10w40 syn.

 

John

[KiteSquid]

I use the rotella T-6 syntethic 5W40 in my RSV and all my small engines.

 

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee346/3dman7/af133c95.jpg

[Leadwolf56]

I use the rotella T-6 syntethic 5W40 in my RSV and all my small engines.

 

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee346/3dman7/af133c95.jpg

 

 

This is the same oil I use in mine. Runs great.

[Mariner Fan]

I used Yamalube synthetic and found it was an immediate improvement in noise and shifting smoothness. Last time I was at the local Yamaha shop I found out that they don't carry Yamalube synthetic anymore (imagine that!).

 

They recommended the Spectro synthetic and even said it was better than Yamalube. Ok, what the heck, I'll give it a try. To be honest, the shifting is now rougher than before. I'm sure that it lubricates fine, but the first to second clunk is driving me nuts. I'll probably drain it and try something else.