risers and throttle cables

[atlm]

After installing risers, I've now rerouted the throttle cables 3 times, and they're still sticking when turned to the right. I also lubed them and it didn't seem to make any difference.

 

 

For those of you who have been successful in getting the throttle not to stick at all via rerouting, exactly what route do your cables take?

 

They originally went (starting from the left) around the steering neck, inside the front brake line, outside the right vertical bar of the inner fairing frame, and around the outside of the right side of the fork. That's the route shown in the service manual.

 

I tried bringing them inside the inner fairing frame, no luck.

 

I then tried outside the front brake line, still inside the inner fairing frame, and up, coming out by the top right of the triple tree, by the pinch bolts, no luck.

 

So what route works?

 

And for those of you who have purchased longer cables, where did you get them and how much did they cost?

[rumboogy]

Mike...sorry to hear you are still having problems with the cables. Like I told you, I was pretty put off that mine too stuck for a little while...but I pulled and pulled (not hard though)...and although they moved very little...it was enough to see an IMPROVEMENT, however now there is no sticking at all now.

 

I hope someone can come on here and give you some good advice.

 

Wally

[Canuck]

How tall are the risers you installed? With a 1 1/2 inch riser it should work. There is a ajuster on one of the cables by the throttle, try shortening or lengthing it before you change cables, there is a lock on it that you back off and then it will turn in or out.

[atlm]

They're the standard 1.5" risers. I fiddled with the adjuster first, to no avail. I got more throttle play with the handlebars straight and turned left, but the throttle still stuck when turned to the right. That's when I started trying the re-routing.

[Canuck]

Just went and looked at my cables. They go from the housing on the grip and then pass between the tree and the fairing, just to the right of the shock tube. I do have the front of my bike lowered by 3/4 of an inch but I,m sure I put the risers on before it was lowered and it worked fine. Still think it may be an ajustment or maybe pinched cable problem. My throttle did lock on full right turn once and ajusting that one cable did fix it.

[short-haul]

I routed mine between the bracket for the fairing and the triple tree see picture 1.

you can do this with out pulling the fairing .

Just take the cable lose at the junction box for the cruse picture 2 and at the carb .

pull them out and reroute them between the bracket.

Also make sure they go behind any wiring (so it does not hold it off the stearing tube) when I did this with my wheel at full lock right or left, I still had slack in the cables

Edited March 14, 2010 by short-haul

[OutlawRider]

Why does everyone go with risers instead of different bars?

[ahoutzer]

Why does everyone go with risers instead of different bars?

 

For one thing, it's way less complicated to put in risers than to move all of the handlebar-mounted stuff to a new set of handlebars!

[Canuck]

It,s easier to add risers than change bars.

[atlm]

At first, it seemed like a too-tight issue. After the initial rerouting inside the inner front fairing support, the cables no longer feel overly tight when turned to the right. So, I don't think it's a tightness issue anymore. I think the cables are being bent too much.

 

The front of my RSV is also lowered, an inch.

 

With the cables run vertically, in front of the triple clamps, do they run between the 2 rubber fairing bumpers, or to the right of the right fairing bumper? Those big rubber blocks.

[short-haul]

On mine they run out side the rubber. When turned all the way I have about 1/2 inch slack ( I can move the cables back and forth at the grips and on the side of the bike by the splitter for the cruse)I have not lowered the frount of my bike, but I dont know how that would effect it.

 

You can get to tight of a bend and the cables will bind.

 

You could have an adjustment problem at the carbs or the grip.

 

If you lived close I would have you bring it by and would help you fix it.may be some one close will offer.

[2Whlsrollin]

If I may make a suggestion, I would just go ahead and order the longer cables. If I remember they were about $35 bucks a piece. I put on the 1.5 risers on my 06 just after I got it in Dec of 05 and last summer in the Hill Country the top cable snapped. I guess the extra tension over time was the culprit. In retrospect I wish I would have put those on from the beginning.

[Seaking]

If I may make a suggestion, I would just go ahead and order the longer cables. If I remember they were about $35 bucks a piece. I put on the 1.5 risers on my 06 just after I got it in Dec of 05 and last summer in the Hill Country the top cable snapped. I guess the extra tension over time was the culprit. In retrospect I wish I would have put those on from the beginning.

 

I'll have to agree with you.. spend the extra few bucks for the longer cables and they'll save you a ton of aggravation over a long period of time.. no binding no worries..

[CMIKE]

I re-routed mine almost a dozen times before I found that sweet spot. I do not remember which combination worked but it is smooth as glass not lock to lock with the handle bars.

Keep trying and you can do it.

 

Some folks had no trouble at all...they just dropped in the risers and all worked fine. With mine the throttle would stick against the lock hard right. You could roll the throttle off with ease but I was scared of it and kept working on it. Finally got it.

 

Take a break and work on it tomorrow. you will get it.

[davecb]

Where is the best place to get the extended cables?

[atlm]

Update:

 

I hadn't ridden the bike since installing the risers, since imo riding with a sticking throttle cable is unsafe. I could roll off the throttle manually, but it wouldn't roll back by itself with the throttle return spring if the handlebars were turned to the right. With the warm sunny days we've been having the last couple of weeks, that was very frustrating! So, I dedicated last Saturday to either fixing the problem or removing the risers.

 

5 hours later, success!! and 2 more hours after that, it was all back together, tested, and ready to ride.

 

I ended up leaving the cables removed from the throttle assembly while troubleshooting to determine whether the issue with each route was cause by binding from bending or from too much tension. One route was binding from excessive bending (with the handlebars turned to the right), and binding from the 2 other cable routes was caused by too much tension.

 

So, I tried routing the cables as shown in short-haul's pictures. I was already very experienced in splitting the fairings and removing the gas tank. I then just had to loosen the rear part of the front fairing and pull it forward a bit, and remove the right rubber fairing bumper to give me room to snake the cables between the fairing and upper triple clamp. Bingo, lots of extra slack in the cables now, and no more small bends or binding. I ended up using a tie-wrap around the throttle cables near the fairing, and another tie-wrap through the first tip wrap and the plastic handlebar clamp to keep the cables from rubbing on the fairing.

 

Thanks everyone for all of the feedback! And short-haul, thank you for the pictures!!

 

[short-haul]

ATLM

Just like you I was not happy with the tension on the cables either,(some even said a slow returning throttle at full turn was normal) and spent a weekend trying to find a route for them and when I did I was smart enough to take a pictures as they say "a picture is worth a 1000 words"

just sorry you had to go to all that work to get your risers to work.

Your welcome and hope you enjoy them as much as I like mine.