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Glad you got it sorted out but for future reference, the screws are labeled incorrectly in the Yamaha service manuals...unless they have corrected it in the later editions. The correct procedure is in the tech library here.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258

 

Thanks Freebird, it was that reference actually that muffed me up a tad, when I had printed it off it was missing some info in the printing process (dropped an image or two) and that launched the confusion.. Luckily for me the screw for 3&4 didn't know to be adjusted and what I thought to have been the proper screw balanced both sides to what I needed..

 

So though I thought I was doing it right I ended up doing it wrong but right at the same time..

 

Confused? I was, but the end result is a MUCH smoother bike ; )

 

But lemme ask you, from your experience, how much of a difference does the RPM make? I observed that just a wee variance in throttle application held steady would give you different results.. Without a TACH I have to hold the throttle to where I think is the right RPM and where the gauges are holding smoothly even and make my adjustments there.. Would I be looking at different results or better results if I were to add a tach to this process?

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Hey Seaking,

Here is a link to a company that sells a decent Tach:

 

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/esi325.html

 

Now as far as the Carb. Sync. Goes, I got a suggestion from George S, and it took my own Carb. Sync. to a hole new level. It goes like this.

Select the RPM that you cruse at, lets say 4000 RPMS, after setting Carbs. at idle, use the Tach. to check at 4000RPMS. "split the difference" between idle and 4000. Personally, my VR spends a lot more time at 4000 then idle. For me, the result was a much smoother cruse at 4000 RPMS.

Hope this helps,:thumbsup2:

Earl

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I've got a tach now but did it for years without one. I just screw in the idle screw just a tad to get the RPMs up a little bit. I usually idle at around 800 or so and just increase it slightly when syncing the carbs. Some people like to sync them at around 2000 or so but for me, it just hasn't make that much difference. Once I get them synced and then raise the RPMs, they seem to stay fairly close. When you initially blip the throttle, they may look to be off but if you hold it steady for a few seconds, they come back pretty close.

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Hey Seaking,

Here is a link to a company that sells a decent Tach:

 

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/esi325.html

 

Now as far as the Carb. Sync. Goes, I got a suggestion from George S, and it took my own Carb. Sync. to a hole new level. It goes like this.

Select the RPM that you cruse at, lets say 4000 RPMS, after setting Carbs. at idle, use the Tach. to check at 4000RPMS. "split the difference" between idle and 4000. Personally, my VR spends a lot more time at 4000 then idle. For me, the result was a much smoother cruse at 4000 RPMS.

Hope this helps,:thumbsup2:

Earl

 

Thanks M8, have you got a link to a site that ships to Canada? I have this little 4 digit tacho gizmo to hook up on the bike but misplaced it during the winter.. it was suppose to solve my problem.. where the heck did I pit that thing.. Grrr..

 

I tried splitting the difference on my VStar before the 1000 rpm and 4000 rpm and it didn't do much at all. Might be diff on the Venture though.. Smoother is good.. ;)

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